5R55E No Reverse or Drive. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5R55E No Reverse or Drive.

tt996gt3

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1997 Explorer high miles, Had problems, replaced complete VB with solenoids last spring with boost valve and ford TBS 10-22-?? with new sep plate. Fixed the problem I was having and ran fine until a few days ago. It sat for a few days in the cold like 20 degrees or so. All I have now is manual 1 and 2, and park. Drive and reverse will engage and rock the vehichle a few inches but no positive power. With 4 lo engaged it will move the vehicle very slowly 1-2mph on level ground but still no positive engagement. It did this for a moment 2 days before it sat up and drove fine the rest of the day. and drove about 2 miles before it started doing this for good. Any Ideas searched but cannot get any similar info. Fluid level. Running 32" tires 3.55 gears. Brown wire mod.

Bad news is OK just wandering what it could be. Thanks!
 



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Would there be any particular internal failures such as broken bands, clutches, tc, possibly something in the t-case, stuck gov. that would give these symptons. If it could be internal i won't mess with it, but if it's most likely that a hard parts failure wouldn't have these particular symptoms I may check the VB, Anymore info you have will be appreciated. Thanks again
 






You could test the transfer case to eliminate this possibility by turning the side closest to the transmission. The output shaft going to the driveshaft should turn at the same time. If not, then the problem is in the transfer case.
 






I had this problem over christmas- I freaked out because I had never had any problems at all. Here's how I fixed it...... I disconnected the battery and let the computer reset, runs great no problems since. Let me know if it works.
 






Yea, that was one of the first things i tried, but it didn't work. Today i could get it to go into drive in reverse while in 4 lo but the engagement was random and wouldn't stay once I moved the selector. Anymore ideas?
 












Yea, it goes into the selected gear. Instead of having power from the engine engaged to the wheels it feels like a manual, if you were to only let of the clutch slightly, the rpm's will rev freely with little power sent to the wheels. I drove it for a short period today, going from manual 1 to 2 and shifting into D near the redline in 2 and it shifted into 4 or OD 50mph around 2k rpm driving normal only once in about 6 attempts to get it to go into D, all other attempts i made to shift in to D it felt like neutral with no engine braking.
 






hey man, i have the exact same problem. to the t. good to hear i have company. i've had the computer scanned and all the imput signals to the tranny are in order. didn't have any error codes due to a dead battery. my next step is taking it to have the tranny its self pluged up to see if all solinoids are working. all 6... gotta love technology. but im convinced its valve body prob. aamco thinks clutch set and for a mere $810 they would tell me for sure. didn't make since to me so picked up my keys. yould advise not driving too much in the meantime, or will be replacing clutches. i'll keep in touch w/ what i find.
-mike
 












tt99-
just keepin you posted. sploder goes in to the doctor thursday. i'll tell ya what i find out. sorry for the slow going, its not my daily driver so i get to shop around... :confused:
-mike
 






Sounds like the same problem I have. I have tried 2 valve bodies now.
 






how bout your solinoids though?????
 






yea, let me know what you find out, i'm in no hurry to fix it, ill do the work my self, so it may take a LONG time, if it has to be rebuilt.
 






update....

theres a hole in the bucket and nobody knows where. its a low pressure symptom but the question is where. so heres the riddle, what do 1st 2nd 3rd and reverse have in common? but only when 1st and second are not manually selected. there enlies the question, to the next transmission shop for the answers. hopefully. or anyone is free to chime in. brooklin? glaciar? anybody? i'll start a new thred with the riddle.
 



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You have 2 taps to check the pressure. One is for the EPC, and the other one is a regular test port. Connect a 0 -300 PSI gauge to them, and check the pressure in every range. # 10 in my list of useful threads has more information.
 






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