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How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Ok, so I had dropped my Ex. off at my local Mr. Transmission after I didn't have good luck changing the sep plate gaskets and EPC. The snotty kid finally got back to me today to tell me

"Your Explorer won't move, we are going to have to take the transmission out and rebuilt it, it'll be at least $2500"

I said, "I know it won't move but you said you would perform a diagnostic and tell me whats wrong"

He said "I just did tell you whats wrong"


Bahhhh, so frustrating. I am going to tow it home tomorrow and adjust the bands, replace the low/reverse servo o rings and...

maybe remove the "silver EPC pressure valve,spring and screen" as Randall Parker said?
 



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Isn't that awful, a transmission shops answer to every problem is a complete R&R and rebuild.

It's frustrating to know how many little things can create these symptoms. Some are inherent in the trans, and some we create from little mistakes or oversights while working on it. The bottom line is about 95+% of these vehicles do not need a trans rebuild, it's just a matter of finding the small issue with the VB, solenoids, gaskets, etc. It's a shame that it takes quite a while to get into the VB and deal with the ATF everywhere, again and again sometimes. But keep in mind that this is far cheaper than an unneeded rebuild. It's usually faster too, most people get it done the first time or two at most. Regards,
 






OK...Don't know anything about cars, but tackled this with my bro-in-law. Installed Ford TSB, Reverse O-ring, filter with rings, and new EPC Solenoid. Used torque wrench. Still having the "flare" at 2500 rpms in D and O/D light flashing after driving a little while. I am going to order the Superior Shift Correction Kit and see what happens. Sure hope this one works. I'm sick of taking off the pan! At least we installed a drain plug last time.

Do we think the superior shift correction kit will do the trick? 2000 Explorer

Do I have to take the VB off to install this and the Sonnax boost valve? I'm guessing I do.
 






I have a '00 with a 4.0 SOHC but have a 1-2 flare with a P0741 "TCC circuit stuck on". Would installing these parts fix my problem?? Please help
 












Quick kudos: Fabulous use of skewers in this otherwise Where's Waldo? illustration! :)
 






2000 Explorer, 4L OHC, 5R55E

Hoping to cure an occasional 2/3 shift flare I installed the superior shift kit. After pulling the valve body I notice it already had the bonded gaskets on the separator plate and the EPC relief valve had the dimple. I can only assume the Ford TSB service was done prior to my ownership. I did not have a bonded plate only a new set of gaskets. So I striped the old gaskets and used the new non-bonded ones I had. After installing the superior kit and a new EPC valve it seemed to shift fine through all gears. At least it did for about 10 minutes, then the OD OFF light began to blink. A trip to Advanced Auto and they said no codes are stored.

The only thing I can think of is that separator plate. Once the Ford TSB service was done with the bonded plate, did I mess up by using that plate with non bonded gaskets?

Thank you in advance for any insight you can offer!
 












So um, this flare. Is it something you need to worry about, or does it just cause harder shifting?

I have my truck tuned for quick shifting, so every gear shifts hard and fast. Got rid of my flare!
 






There is a code stored, but their scanner can't read it since it's a manufacturer specific transmission code.

So my only option is paying the stealership to get the code read?
Any opinion as to the possibility of the separator plate being my problem? Since I removed the bonded gaskets and reused it with non bonded gaskets.
 






Just trying this now, my Ford '00 Ex Sport has an additional catalytic converter that sits over most of the heat shield. I'm having a hell of a time getting a socket snugly on that bolt, let alone being able to turn it to remove the heat shield. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Disregard that, hehe.
 






So my only option is paying the stealership to get the code read?
Any opinion as to the possibility of the separator plate being my problem? Since I removed the bonded gaskets and reused it with non bonded gaskets.
You need to use a separator plate that never had gaskets bonded to it if you're using regular gaskets. Bonded separator plates are disposable, and can't be reused. Either get a new set of bonded separator plates or regular plates with gaskets. Make sure that you get a 5R55E separator plate, and not a 4R55E separator plate siince the hole spacing is different.
 






You need to use a separator plate that never had gaskets bonded to it if you're using regular gaskets. Bonded separator plates are disposable, and can't be reused. Either get a new set of bonded separator plates or regular plates with gaskets. Make sure that you get a 5R55E separator plate, and not a 4R55E separator plate siince the hole spacing is different.

THANK YOU! Other than the blinking OD off light it seems to shift fine through all gears. I thought I might be heading for trouble using regular gaskets on a bonded plate. But I didn't know I already had the bonded plate until I got it out. Only thing I could do at the time was put it back together with what I had. I'll order a bonded plate and try again.

Thanks again for the guidance.
 












Belated Response But Good Outcome!

Hello everyone -

I posted several questions - as you can see back in November - about replacing a 5R55E valve body and wanted to close the loop with all those who have been so helpful.

Bottom line: Bought a rebuilt valve body from Central Valve Bodies. CVB couldn't have been more helpful. Replaced the vb yesterday but neglected to get the manual detent set up correct and had to drop the transmisstion pan today to put it in the proper position. Interestingly, the Ford procedure that is available on the Internet is great but makes no mention of ensuring the manual detent set up is correct.

End result: The transmission runs like it's brand new.

Thanks for all the help! Now I need to replace the driver's side window weatherstripping....

Bill
 






Does anyone know if the ford mod eliminated the forward engagement spring? I pulled my valve body off not knowing it was already fixed but when I saw the forward engagement spring missing I replaced it and now ive got a really slipping soft 1st to 2nd shift. Thanks for any help.
 






Beware of 800700tran.com

"New in box" may mean used in ziplock. The part did not work. Called to remedy. Rude and no help. Told me to send back part and he would give me my money back and hung up. No RMA number, nothing. I am sure I will receive my money back. Just be careful when you order from this guy. He said he called me to tell me it was used. He never called.
 






800700tran.com

Based on what I read here, I ordered my valve body from Central Valve Body. Couldn't be happier. They were very helpful, the VB looked great and is now operating great. About $80 more expensive than 800700 but, in my opinion, money well spent.

FWIW: Don't forget that if you paid for the VB by credit card, you should contest the charge with the credit card company. Nothing gets a vendor's attention faster, in my experience, and you have very strong protections.

Bill
 






wdmichael, how much was central vb? Im thinking of just replacing mine, did it come with all solenoids? Thanks.
 



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