5R55E VB replaced, O/D still flashing w/ whistle

[bpinson]

Hi all-

First, as so many others have said, thank you to everyone for the great knowledge you all provide so willingly.

2000 Explorer SOHC, 156,000+ miles.

Here's the back story...for those that want to get right to the problem, scroll down to "---PROBLEM---". Sometimes I include too much detail.

The story is pretty much the same as everyone else’s:

2 weeks ago I began to experience the 2-3 shift flare. That lasted a day, the next day the shift flare was accompanied by a flashing O/D light.

I researched things to death, mostly on these boards. I read the entire diary post (yes, all of it) along with dozens of others on here (including the stairway thread). I'm fairly competent at reading instructions, but decided the best route would be to order a rebuilt VB from Central Valve Bodies. It arrived Thursday and I set off on the replacement Saturday afternoon.

I followed the directions meticulously.

First, I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery.

Next, I removed the pan and loosened the bolts on the VB and allowed it to drain over night, mainly because I had enough of transmission fluid for the evening.

The next morning (okay, early afternoon) I started anew. I finished removing the VB, and used my handy dandy cardboard layout to keep the bolts in place. The gasket was blown in the same places everyone else’s had been. Shock and amazement.

I then worked my way backwards. Installed the "new" VB from CVB. Torqued the bolts to 71 in the pattern per the documents I found, Then I re-torqued them to 97, in the same pattern.

Attached the wire harness, and double-checked it.
I also checked to ensure the shifter engager plunger thing (sorry for the lack of the technical term) was in the correct place. I didn't want to miss that step as others mentioned doing.

Installed a new filter, torqued the bolt per specs as well.

Cleaned the pan completely, then reinstalled with a new gasket that came with the filter.

Installed, tightened, and torqued the bolts in a crisscross pattern.

One note, I drained the original fluid into a transparent container. I then measured the height, width, and depth of fluid to determine (remember it sat draining overnight) that I removed a little over 7 quarts of fluid. Obviously the container didn't include the amount I soaked up with rags, etc.

Just to ensure my measurements were not off, I added 6 quarts in to start with. The whole time expecting something to leak out the bottom.

After the 6 were in, I reconnected the battery and started the engine. No leaks. I rejoiced!

---PROBLEM---
Here's where my problems CONTINUE...

About 20 seconds after starting the engine, the O/D light started flashing again.

Allowed the engine to idle for 2-3 minutes for things to warm up a bit.

Tried changing gears, I had no forward or reverse movement in ANY gear.

I then checked the fluid level and nothing was showing on the dipstick.

Added another 1/2 quart. Waited another 2-3 minutes (engine running) and tried to change gears again. This time I would get movement, but I was very little movement and under high RPMs. I only tried this for a few seconds.

Checked the dipstick. Fluid now showing, but still not into the "shaded" area.

Added another 1/2 quart. I had now added the amount that was showing in my catch pan (7 quarts).

Waited another 2-3 minutes (engine still running). Tried changing gears. Every gear engaged instantly and moved the vehicle without problem at this point.

Dipstick was showing a level right at the bottom of the shaded area. Added another 1/2 quart, waited 2-3 minutes, now it was half way into the shaded area. I stopped adding fluid at this point.

Now, the O/D light was flashing the whole time I was doing this. I shut off the engine, disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and ate lunch.

Came back out, reconnected battery and started the engine. After about 20 seconds, O/D light started flashing again.

Took it out for a short test drive. It successfully shifted into every gear (except O/D it seems), but each shift was very harsh ("limp" mode?), but the 2-3 flare was gone.

Also, there is now a whistling sound that comes from the transmission area. The whistle changes pitch with engine speed. I've made a recording and saved it to http://pinlawr.com/temp/whistle.m4a. It came from my cell phone, so I’m not sure if everyone will be able to open it. The noise is noticeable about 5 seconds in. I also do a small rev to show the change in pitch.

---So, here I am, "new" VB, no more shift-flare, but I still seem to be stuck in limp mode.

HELP! Please, and thank you!

 

[bpinson]

Hi again!

First, a polite late evening bump!

Second, I attempted both autozone and oreillys to get the code from the transmission read. I also purchased a $250 code reader that said it could read extended manufacturer specific codes. It didn't (or there really was no code), so it went back.

As of now I'm still in the same place I was before. I drove for a bit today (less than 10 miles) to get the codes read and it was acting exactly as before. Hard shifts, blinking light.

I'm open to suggestions get the flashing OD light code read, as long as those suggestions don't say to buy a $1000+ scanner. I understand the value of said scanner, but it's just not worth it (to me) for this one time repair.

Grrrrrrr.

 

[bpinson]

Anyone?

 

[bpinson]

So, did I scare everyone off with my long post?

 

[GuardianSport]

Are you sure it is a 5R55E valve body? Did you do the swap yourself?

 

[drdoom]

So, did I scare everyone off with my long post?

I don't think that is it. I think the 5R55E is very complicated & expensive, and people are reluctant to speculate on one of the hardest to diagnose problems.

 

[GuardianSport]

If you did it yourself, you might have a torque issue with the bolts that hold the VB onto the tranny. They have to be torqued to a certain amount (97 lbs?) and done in a specific order.

 

[bpinson]

Are you sure it is a 5R55E valve body? Did you do the swap yourself?

Yes, I did the swap myself, and it was lonely under there covered in transmission fluid!

I'm going to say I'm 99% positive it's a 5R55E.

Here is two pictures (front and back [note the blown out gasket]) of the VB i removed. Also, "front" and "back" are used loosly here since I guess it could also be "top" and "bottom".

 

[bpinson]

If you did it yourself, you might have a torque issue with the bolts that hold the VB onto the tranny. They have to be torqued to a certain amount (97 lbs?) and done in a specific order.

I'm fairly certain I followed all the details that I found here about proper torque, and also printed out the sheet showing the torque order. I torqued in that order, first to the 79 lbs/in, then went back again, same order, and brought it up to the 97 lbs/in. I used a true lbs/in, rather than lbs/ft torque wrench as well.

 

[TexasnativeDRJH]

Did you do anything with the solenoids? It sounds odd that after adding 6 qts there was nothing on your dipstick... I don't know where Murphy, TX is but if you were in the Houston area I could have my Father in law put his snap-on scanner on it to read the codes.
My 2000 Ex has the same amount of miles as yours and im kind of in the same boat, except I never had the 2-3 flare but TCC issues

 

[bpinson]

It was a rebuilt VB from Central Valve Bodies. The rebuilt VB came with all tested solenoids, except the EPC which was replaced with new.

Almost literally, I opened the box with the rebuilt VB, removed my old, and installed the "new".

Murphy is about 20 minutes north of Dallas.

I was shocked at the amount of fluid needed too, but like I said, I opened it all up (removed pan, filter, and loosened VB) and let it drip overnight so A LOT came out.

 

[GuardianSport]

Have you taken note of the codes via the OBDII computer?

 

[bpinson]

Have you taken note of the codes via the OBDII computer?

That's been my problem. The scanner at AutoZone can't read the code (shock and amazement), nor could the two $200+ scanners I bought & returned read them. I tried calling a few places late yesterday to ask them to read the codes only (all 3 where chains). All told me that they could run a $100 diagnostic, but not just read the codes, even for a fee. :|

Today my goal is to call around and find a place, most likely an independent shop, that will hopefully read the codes for me.

 

[TexasnativeDRJH]

I notice that the crappiest looking repair shops charge less than most for labor. You may have to pay for one one hour for diagnosis. I think there's a pressure relief valve that goes out. I don't know if its in the VB or the converter though

 

[bpinson]

Success!!

I found a shop near my office that I phoned up and they were happy to read the code, no charge!

Code was P1746 - EPC Solenoid Circuit Open

They decided that since it was showing "open" rather than some form of out of range type of condition that there was the chance that maybe I didn't connect a wire.

For an hours labor they said they could drop the pan and check out the connections. Well, I decided that they could do it a lot faster than I could. They even let me watch.

They were right. When I reconnected the EPC connector I bent back one of the pins and it wasn't making connection. They unbent it, reconnected it, put it back together all in about 45 minutes.

Transmission runs perfectly now!

Also, the "whistle" was from the pressure being cranked up all the way while it was running in limp mode. Whistle went away too!

Thank you, everyone, for you input and help!!!

 

[TexasnativeDRJH]

Lucky!!! Now I wish I got the CVB reman VB instead of just doing gaskets and TCC solenoid. Mine took a couple days for the light to come back on, not sure if I want it to be th same code or not. Really don't want to drop the pan again.