911 no start ,timing issues ,?????? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

911 no start ,timing issues ,??????

booo66

Member
Joined
February 19, 2009
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
City, State
chicago,il
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 explorer xlt
hi everyone
im going crazy with this truck 06 limited 4.0 131000 miles
no start for 3 days replaced multiple sensors
chains supposedly done feb 2016 since then i have replaced the throttle position sensor 13 or 15 times every week or ten days ,,,,,,6 weeks ago thought i figured it out found chafed or exposed wires on the tps on the maf the egr the throttle body motor and fuel injector #1 ,,
problem continued 4 days ago no start ,,,,thought it was the starter just spinning ..engine cranks very high pitched replaced the starter ,same sound and same result ......no start.....5 hours later a little a squirt of carb cleaner starts up,,,, pull 11 codes all tps and voltage and camshaft sensor next day starts runs 3 times and then nothing ,,,,,so i pull apart all the wiring again ,,,, this time the drivers side too, even tho it all looked fine ....here i found more screwed up wire #4cyl injector wire , camshaft sensor wire ,and fuel pressure sensor wires,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, (everywhere there was exposed or arcing wire it was always 2 to 4 in behind the electrical connectors and under the factory wrap or elec tape),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,taped it all back up ..put a new tps sensor same **** ,so i replaced the camshaft sensor (figuring arching wires fried the sensor)same thing spinning sound and no start(but its cranking).....(it had a little clatter ever since i had the chains done back in February was told it was normal and it went away after the truck warmed up)
so i got a new fuel pressure sensor and was going to throw it in but i decided to remove drivers side valve cover and found the bottom of the guide is completely gone the upper plastic is still in tact the bottom part of the cassette is gone the plastic and metal ...all gone
the chain is very loose wondering if the timing has jumped if so i do i reset it ........
im going ti take off the timing cover to see whats going on ..the chain is not broke but very loose on the bottom where the guide should be also noticed the #6 cylinder rocker arm is loose ,have spark in all cylinders so i believe that means the crank sensor is good and the the coil is good (correct)what im i looking for beside the obvious broken chain missing theeth etc......i plan on replacing everything in the front of the motor myself but how do i re time it,,, and make sure there's no engine damage before putting new cassettes etc....i have not tried starting it with the new fuel pressure sensor ive done nothing but a lot of reading since finding the loose chain ...(but if the timing is off why did it start and run 4 different times after the starting fluid it sounded exactly the same )
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











timing cover is off
the slack side of the cam guide is gone plastic was in 2 pc in the bottom but metal part of the guide is gone ,primary chain guide in pc's,
primary or jack shaft tensioner couple pc's of plastic and 5 black metal bands {i guess there part of the primary tensioner
and the balance shaft plastic has a crack.......so it looks like timing jumped by 22 degrees right side or back and over 50 degres on the drivers side ,,,,,,,couldn't i hold the cam in place with vise grips
loosen the sprocket turn the cam and re attach the sprocket
then same on the drivers side with new guides
 






Stop messing with what is obviously a botched timing kit replacement and take it back to the "mechanics" who hosed it in the first place.

Chatter from the timing chain area is never normal. Either the chain is loose b c it's not the correct chain, the tensioner is faulty in not taking up the slack in the chain, the oiler is not lubricating the chain right away so that clattering is basically a dry chain metal on metal issue.

It sounds to me like they executed the cardinal sin of timing repair:. They opened it up, decided only seven pieces were worn, and replaced those seven pieces.

You may be able to get away with that on a well maintained lower mileage engine if you are a trained mechanic or expert diy er, but not w 160k on the clock.

They likely only replaced the chain.

The cam sprockets are worn, the crank sprocket is worn, the tensioner is not exerting enough tension, the oiler if nothing else is gunked up and proper chain lubrication is not occurring on cold starts.

The extra slack in the chain was probably smacking off the guides leading to the kind of wear that should never happen and breakage of the guides.

This is why, except in special circumstances, I always recommend that people get a full timing replacement kit and do the crank and cam sprockets, tensioner, guides, etc. Once you've installed it all properly, all parameters should be w in factory spec at the same time. New baseline. Otherwise these situations arise. Not always, but they do.

The chain clatter is sad b c any mechanic who takes any pride in their work would order a new.oiler,. tensioner and timing.chain gasket and at least fix what is otherwise a time bomb.

Just for the hell of it, see if you can find any date codes stamped into the.sprockets.

One other thing just hit me:. What service did you verbally ask them to perform? Just a chain replacement? That might have been interpreted literally as ONLY replace.the chain. An experienced mechanic.working on a 160k mi engine should know that is not.gonna last.

Check your invoice to see what parts.you were.charged for
 






i bought the parts and my profile is old its a 2006 limited 130000 which 800000 of them are me i think he screwed up on the install................... he passed away anyway
 






the latest i stuck a probe in all the plugs and every piston has strike marks
and the pass side cyl 1 2 3 which i thought would be ok #2 cyl has a double half moon shape strike mark on it .......next can i remove the pass side head with rear cassette still in the motor it just has the one pivot pin and the bolt on top that goes thru the cassette .....
i want to replace both heads new guides up front clean out the oil pan ..
i cant afford another engine!!!!!! a pair heads here in Chicago 500 plus the kit much cheaper
anybody have any thoughts
 






Back
Top