94 Rear Main

[Number4]

I've been procrastinating on my 94 4.0.
While it's out I figured I'd replace the rear main seal. It's not leaking, but the engines out.

I've read that these being replaced can be a nightmare.

I'm not buying the 100+ tool and I've read up on the ABS pipe plug jig.

Who here has installed these 4.0 rear main seals and how'd you do it. Of course, those of you who were successful.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Mine looks to be successful**. Used the SKF seal with sleeve. Used the ABS plug and coupler trick. It is difficult to get the sleeve on. I was sure I was going to break something or screw it up. The trickiest part I think is figuring out how deep to set the sleeve, you don't just drive it down until it seats, then the seal won't be on it. You have to measure the depth and figure out where the lip of the seal will ride when the seal is flush with the block (not the pan).

It's been 550+ miles since I yanked my engine and it no longer pukes oil everywhere.




** My leak was mainly due to the oil pan gasket shriveling up and hardening. I replaced the rear main at the same time. Now that it's all back together, I'm no longer leaving puddles by the time I park, get out and walk 20 feet away. However, I am still losing some oil. It looks like a bonehead move on my part, I installed a T into the oil pressure sender to run a secondary gauge but keep the factory unit. I only hand-tightened it during mockup and dropped the engine back into the Ex, bolted everything on and realized my mistake a few hundred miles later. It's a tough spot to get to with tools and it's not a horrible leak, nowhere near what it was. But it's enough for me to say that my leaking issues aren't solved and thus I don't know if my repair was 100% effective.

 

[Explorin'VA]

I'm wondering the same thing. I'm about to have my transmission out for a manual swap. I got a new rear main seal just in case it's leaking. I've read about people putting sheet metal screws into the old seal so you can easily pry it out by the screws. I also read where many people still have leaks after replacing the seal. Just be sure to lube the new rear seal and take it easy on the first start up.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yea, you'll have to drill in and use screws to yank the old seal out. Not a big deal. I read on here that some of the reason for the leaks is that they didn't put a sleeve in and the seal had actually worn into the crankshaft and lost it's tightness, even with a new seal. The other reason for continued leaking is that the seal isn't seated properly, flush with the block, NOT the oil pan.

For what it's worth, here's 3 pictures I have of my rear main:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u...Explorer/Pictures/Engine Removal/P1020123.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u...Explorer/Pictures/Engine Removal/P1020124.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u...Explorer/Pictures/Engine Removal/P1020125.JPG

 

[Number4]

Mine looks to be successful**. Used the SKF seal with sleeve. Used the ABS plug and coupler trick.

You used the black ABS or the white pipe? Seems ABS has been obsoleted. I can get it on Amazon, but no where local. The white pipe seems thicker, not allowing enough room for the two bolts.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You used the black ABS or the white pipe? Seems ABS has been obsoleted. I can get it on Amazon, but no where local. The white pipe seems thicker, not allowing enough room for the two bolts.

I used both. I used a 3" black ABS cap to tap the seal in and then a female-female coupler to put the sleeve. The coupler had to be trimmed a bit inside with a rasp. Accuracy in trimming doesn't matter much. I can get pictures as I still have these 'tools' if you want.

 

[Number4]

Hey, everyone loves pictures.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Hey, everyone loves pictures.

Sorry, I didn't get any pictures.


I got a video instead
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZFw5BwHsQk

 

[Number4]

Interesting, so you just used the plug unmolested and tapped in the seal. Instead of cutting off the nub and using bolts. The PVC plug fit the seal good as well. They don't have ABS anymore.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yea, I didn't cut the nub off and drive it in using the bolts. I've driven in seals before and you get a good feeling for what's going on. You lightly tap and get it moving in and check it as you go.

 

[jd4242]

Anyone replaced it in a manual and didnt use a sleeve, just new seal??

 

[boominXplorer]

I have had success 3 times so far using the Felpro PTFE seal on a sohc engine(uses same seal as ohv). It comes with a tapered installer. I clean the crank with wd40 and fine scotch brite till all oil deposits are gone, clean the area and install the seal. I have an otc rear main installer now but sure did use an empty soup can the first time. The PTFE seal slides in pretty easily with constant pressure, no need to hammer it in.


On a side note on 1 I fixed had a regular Felpro seal/sleeve and was leaking its butt off.

 

[jd4242]

I have had success 3 times so far using the Felpro PTFE seal on a sohc engine(uses same seal as ohv). It comes with a tapered installer. I clean the crank with wd40 and fine scotch brite till all oil deposits are gone, clean the area and install the seal. I have an otc rear main installer now but sure did use an empty soup can the first time. The PTFE seal slides in pretty easily with constant pressure, no need to hammer it in.


On a side note on 1 I fixed had a regular Felpro seal/sleeve and was leaking its butt off.

Thats the seal I got.. $25!!! I didnt see a install piece but there is like a plastic piece inside the seal, thought it was there just to keep it nice and round.

 

[boominXplorer]

That plastic piece slides on to the end of the crank and works as a seal protector so it doesn't get damaged going over the lip of the crank.

 

[gmanpaint]

There are "Dry" & "Wet" install type seals. I made the mistake of installing and lubing a Dry seal. It leaked.

Why the heck they make both kind is confusing to me, and had no idea at the time.

 

[jd4242]

There are "Dry" & "Wet" install type seals. I made the mistake of installing and lubing a Dry seal. It leaked.

Why the heck they make both kind is confusing to me, and had no idea at the time.

Which is which?? How can you tell?? I have the felpro ptfe seal..

 

[gmanpaint]

Which is which?? How can you tell?? I have the felpro ptfe seal..

Should say on the box or in the directions.

If it doesn't say, call the supplier & ask, or search the part number and see if you can find out that way. It has something to do with the material used, but it's been a few years since I did it, & can't remember which is which off hand. Sorry.

 

[Explorin'VA]

The fel-pro website says to install the ptfe rubber seal dry.

http://www.felpro-only.com/rear-main-seals/

 

[jd4242]

The fel-pro website says to install the ptfe rubber seal dry.

http://www.felpro-only.com/rear-main-seals/

Aww thank you

 

[natenkiki2004]

I'd imagine the PTFE seals install dry, they're naturally slippery. The rubber ones (vitron, silicone, etc) are probably meant to be lubed.

Either way, it shouldn't matter really. All the seals will get wet with oil, that's what they're intended to do. There's just a lot that can be messed up.