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95 Explorer EB Blower motor quit

markcoronado

Member
Joined
March 23, 2008
Messages
35
Reaction score
1
City, State
Bracey Va.
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Eddie Bauer
I need some help troubleshooting my blower motor problem.

When I started up it worked fine and a few minutes later it just quit.
I have the climate control model and no mater if I set to heat or AC it won't run.
Even the rear blower doesn't come on.

About 1 1/2 years ago I had the problem with the blower motor running with the key off and replaced the resister but I'm not sure if that's the problem now or how to test it.

I tested all the fuses and they all checked out fine.
 



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Mine quits every so often, I just smack the underside of the glove box and it starts right back up...weird, but works. Almost like crap gets in there and it sticks.
 






I just ran the self test on the EATC and it comes up with a 030 code.

Does anyone know what that code means?

Where is the blower motor relay located?
 


















I did the self test again this morning when it was in the mid 70s outside and the results were code 888 so I'm guessing the code 030 was because it was over 90 degrees inside the vehicle.

I also pulled the plug from the fan motor and put my meter on it and I have no voltage when testing the PK/WH & OG/BK wires. I'm guessing the PK/WH is 12V & the OG/BK is ground but I tried it both ways and still nothing.
If I use the body for ground I have 12V at both wires.
Shouldn't one of those wires be ground?
 






you should always test for voltage with respect to a KNOWN ground otherwise, you are looking for a "voltage drop" result which may or may not be of value depending on whether you know what the drop should be. I assume your "test" was with the connector connectored (ie. pin probed or otherwise)... if so, it is likely your test indicated that you had no ground to test to and as a result, little or no difference in potential between the two points... which your subsequent test (to a known ground). Net result, you likely have a speed controller issue... lots of posts... most have to replace although some have fixed (electrical work). Test your motor by running a 12v line to it (along with a ground) and go from there.
 






I did my testing with the connector unplugged from the blower motor, I didn't probe the wire.

Like you said I'll have to put 12V from the Battery to the motor and see what happens.
Does it matter which prong on the blower motor I use for ground?
I think the PK/WH wire is 12V & the OG/BK is ground but I could be wrong.
I don't want to short out the motor.
 






Here are some tests from the service manual-

B3 CHECK VOLTAGE TO BLOWER MOTOR SPEED CONTROL
Disconnect the harness connector from the A/C blower motor speed control.
Engine running, A/C control on MAX A/C.
Measure voltage between Pin 4 and Pin 5 of the A/C blower motor speed control harness connector.
Is voltage less than 10 volts?
Yes No
CHECK fuse 6 and blower motor circuits and Circuits 371 and 261. SERVICE as required. GO to B4 .

B4 CHECK VOLTAGE TO BLOWER MOTOR
Reconnect A/C blower motor speed control connector.
Disconnect blower motor from harness.
Check for voltage across harness connector wires Circuits 371 (PK/W) and 261 (O/BK) with blower motor on HI.
Is voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes No
REPLACE blower motor. GO to B5 .

B5 CHECK VOLTAGE TO BLOWER MOTOR SPEED CONTROL
Disconnect harness connector from the A/C blower motor speed control.
Blower motor on HI.
Check voltage between Pin 3 (Circuit 775 [W/PK]) and Pin 5 (Circuit 57 [B/K]) of harness connector.
Is voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes No
REPLACE A/C blower motor speed control. GO to B6 .

B6 CHECK VOLTAGE TO EATC CONTROL ASSEMBLY
Reconnect A/C blower motor speed control connector.
Engine running, A/C control on MAX A/C and blower on HI.
Check voltage between Pin 9 (Circuit 775 [W/PK]) of EATC control assembly and ground.
Is voltage more than 10 volts?
Yes No
SERVICE Circuit 775 (W/PK). REPLACE A/C control.
 






Thanks for the test info 96eb96.

I'm out of town for the weekend so I'll check it out next week when I get back.
 






I did my testing with the connector unplugged from the blower motor, I didn't probe the wire.

Like you said I'll have to put 12V from the Battery to the motor and see what happens.
Does it matter which prong on the blower motor I use for ground?
I think the PK/WH wire is 12V & the OG/BK is ground but I could be wrong.
I don't want to short out the motor.

PK/WH wire goes to fuse #6 in the fuse box which supplies +12V. OG/BK wire goes to the "blower motor speed controller" (which is the EATC version of a blower resistor in manual units), which in turn has a ground connection plus three more wires from the EATC module in the dash. You can test your blower motor by putting +12V on the PK/WH wire pin and grounding the OG/BK wire pin to see if your motor runs. Likely your blower motor speed controller had gone toes-up. Good luck.
 






I finally got some time to run some tests.
I put 12V to the motor and it runs fine.
When I got to test B5 it shows I have a bad blower motor speed control.
I just replaced that same part in 11/2010, it's strange that that the original part lasted 15 years and the replacement only lasted a little less than 2 years.

Does anyone know a good place to purchase a replacement?
The last one I got at Rock Auto.

Does anyone know the Ford part number?
 






I finally got a replacement part & now the blower motor runs all the time on high speed even with the key off.
This was the original problem the last time.
I'll be sending it back so it will be awhile before I get a new replacement.
 






kind of funny though.... as with the key off.... no voltage can get to the motor so I think you might have invented a perpetual machine ... :)
 






kind of funny though.... as with the key off.... no voltage can get to the motor so I think you might have invented a perpetual machine ... :)

You wouldn't think so but when the blower motor speed controller goes bad it can.
This is the second one I had do that, the factory one when it went bad & now this one that was new out of the box.
 






OK got the 2nd replacement installed and all is fine.
Sent the original back to Rock Auto for refund as it was still under warranty 3year 36,000 miles.

Thanks to all that helped.
 






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