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97 Explorer doesn't start.

Green97XLT

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Joined
May 16, 2010
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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer 4x4XLT
Please help me if you can.

I have a 1997 Explorer with SOHC V6.

It turns over but wont start. I have tested the fuel rail pressure test valve and fuel is there and shoots out a few feet.

I checked for spark on one of the wires with a spark tester. There is no spark when cranking. I then put the spark tester into the coil (to eliminate the spark plug wire) and I don't have a spark there either.

I checked for 12v battery power coming into the coil and it shows it has 12v. So I suspect the coil is faulty.

My other troubleshooting steps are:
My readings on the primary resistance between positive and the 3 negatives on the coil seem good at 0.7 ohms for each of the three.

The secondary resistance seems like it might be okay too.
Between 3-4 13230 ohms
Between 2-6 12920 ohms
Between 1-5 13290 ohms
----
I just got a new Motorcraft coil and it reads very similarly
Between 3-4 13170 ohms
Between 2-6 13120 ohms
Between 1-5 13060 ohms
and the primary resistance on the new coil is about the same at 0.5 - 0.6 ohms.

According to the troubleshooting, is my old coil probably okay? Is the resistance a proven test? Or can it still be a faulty coil even with my readings being similar to the new coil?

Could it be something else? Like Crankshaft Position Sensor? Is there a procedure to test the sensor? If it is bad will it still file the coil?

Thanks!
Please help me if you can!
 



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The coil resistances seem high (supposed to be below 11.5k IIRC), but I don't think that would prevent the coil from firing - when mine was bad the truck would run and start ok, but misfire under load when towing my trailer or climbing a relatively steep hill.


I'm assuming that you don't have any codes - is that correct?

Crankshaft Position Sensor is a possibility, but may set a code if the PCM is not getting a signal. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module aka computer) is what sends the signal to the coil pack to fire the engine.
 






Thanks dogfriend. The DVM I have is really cheap so my resistance readings are probably not very accurate.

Here is the latest... I installed the new Motorcraft coil. I also changed the wires and plugs with the Motorocraft parts.

The old plugs and wires were probably on there for over 60,000 miles.

I had a hell of a time getting the old plugs and wires off of it. The major problem is that access it tight. Is there some tricks to doing it better and faster? Does the spark plug boot puller tool really help? I don't have one--should I get one. I used a long, angled pliers. For other tools, I used a 5/8" spark plug socket and a separate swivel extension (really cheap one) and then a few straight extensions of various lengths and a 3/8" ratchet.

On the SOHC V6 engine the number 3 (passenger side-furthest rear) spark plug was the worst for me. I ended up taking off the plastic wheel well insert so I could see access better.

I started the engine last night as it was getting dark and it ran fine which was a big relief since it didn't start at all before. So I guess the old coil was bad after all. I'll repeat the spark test and see if my initial testing and diagnosis was a good way to check for a bad coil.

This morning I reassembled all the pieces and took it for test drive around the block. Well, it was immediately obvious that it was misfiring. Also, the Check Engine Light blinked and then stayed on.

The code is P0303: "Cylinder no. 3 misfire detected".

Maybe I didn't get the connection between the spark plug and wire in the boot correct? I'll re-seat it and try again. I did checked that the correct wire went to the coil's number 3 connection.

Is there anything else about a misfire to check? If the wire seems like it is on correctly will my next step be to remove the spark plug? I hope not.
 












I guess I should have connected the number 3 spark plug wire!
I made the connection and it is fixed.
Thanks for all the help.
 












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