After $4000 the dealer can’t fix my dads explorer

[Curtis]

2006 limited 4wd navigation etc
He’s had it a long time.
Babied truck. Not winter driven. my dads dream explorer he loved to show off.

Dreaded u1900 code
Tried some local garages and none could help. So he went to the dealer before talking to me.

The dealer has put in
1- a transmission valve body,
Why I don’t know, how a valve body can cause a communication error. Didn’t fix it.

2- radiator. There was a small leak, they said it could cause the issue. Didn’t fix it.

3- computer. Didn’t fix it

4- wiring harness. Didn’t fix it

now the bill is up to $4k and they’ve given up.

facing the choice of paying it to get the truck back or telling them to keep it.


He’s so loyal too. It’s his 9th explorer. called Ford directly and was basic told there was noting they could do.

So sad.

 

[boominXplorer]

What are its symptoms? Try a different abs module by chance?

 

[vipersinu2]

what engine?

 

[Curtis]

Starts and idles fine
But is in limp mode
U1900 code

it’s. 2006 limited 4x4 4.6L

 

[94Eddie]

Bad coils on the passenger side can interfere with the communication between the computer and transmission and there might not be a code thrown for the bad coil(s). This problem can also be caused by cheap non-OEM coils. This might be worth investigating.

 

[vipersinu2]

 

[Littleant]

The whole point of bringing it to the dealer was to fix it not to throw parts at it. Tell them to reinstall all of your old parts and take the vehicle home. I would pay them nothing.

 

[Explorer_PL]

What 94Eddie said -

This is exactly my problem I had few years ago.
U0100 and U1900 I believe (???? don't recall exact codes). It would go into limp mode everyday. Went to a dealer and they told me I am loosing communication with TCM which is stored in the valve body (Mechatronic). Quoted me $ 2,400 for that.
I got a re manufactured valve body, installed it - same problem. Pulled the "new" valve body, sent it back and they sent me a new one - same problem again.
Then came across the article on the web about cheap coils disturbing ECM to TCM signal. Got 8 Motorcraft coils and plugs, and the problem's been gone for 3 years.

See post # 12 in this thread
My 6R60 mechatronic replacement - saga continues, pictures..

 

[410Fortune]

I have a hard time getting money from customers when I never fixed the issue....just saying I wouldn't give those ass hats a dime? Of course you authorized the repairs prior to them being down and signed your life away = sucks.
I would not be happy that $4K went NOWHERE
IE small claims court

Show them the post about bad ignition coils so they can learn something

 

[Ruddy]

Why do people try to save money on such an important part??
I bought a 2005 S60 with only 115k miles, one lady owner, San Jose, CA. car it's whole life. Driving it one day and out of the blue, the 5 cylinder engine runs really rough, barely got it home. Traced it to misfire, take the cover off and there are 2 coils so cheap they have no brand name at all! The one just failed 100%. Replaced them both with Bosch, all good.

 

[Explorer_PL]

In my case I used yellow Accell coils, and they created the issue after a while.
Some people have good luck with some no name knock offs, I'll stick to Motorcraft.

Just make sure you get real stuff, the fake ones look sooooooo real, with part numbers and original bag packaging.

 

[94Eddie]

Just make sure you get real stuff, the fake ones look sooooooo real, with part numbers and original bag packaging.

This video goes over what to look for with fake Motorcraft spark plugs and coils.

 

[96eb96]

In my case I used yellow Accell coils, and they created the issue after a while.
Some people have good luck with some no name knock offs, I'll stick to Motorcraft.

Just make sure you get real stuff, the fake ones look sooooooo real, with part numbers and original bag packaging.

Motorcraft coils cost $30 each if Advance auto matches. Advance is a 100% authorized distributor. Rockauto, probably ok, but they deal with many random vendors. I believe DENSO is their OEM, I would certainly trust those.

Yes, you could get 8 coils for 70 bucks, sure. I would rather replace one at time (I keep a spare) than buy that garbage. Look it what it could cost in the long run.

I mean, a radio from china, fine. But I learned over 20 years ago to buy OEM ignition parts and critical sensors. If not Ford, maybe Bosch or Denso (even there you have to be careful).
I bought a cheap distributor cap for a 302 once, the car stalled. I pulled the center terminal and the stud came out. So what did I really save? Tow bill and aggravation. The Motorcraft one was $8 more.

Now, the thing is 90% of those cheap coils may be fine. But top tier suppliers pay a staff of engineers millions JUST to run extensive quality control. They have labs where they sample the product as it comes off the line, and are ready to discard even thousands in product if it isn't right. You think those $2 coils makers bother :lol:. Also, the insulation materials could break down in a very short time.

Because in the end it cost Ford money, when they have re-warranty it.

 

[ThunderbirdSport]

Mine needed new coils when i bought it...acted like the trans was shifting erratically, slipping...no code for it. I'd done my research (here, actually) and knew that failing coils (V8) would cause this.

I knew the trans was good as it only did at 3/4 or more throttle...driving easily didn't have problems. Put new coils on it a few days later...holy ****, what a beast. LOL

I'd try that before spending any more money at a garage. Coils are easy to do, too. If you can tie your own shoe, you can do coils on 4.6 3V