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Best approach to replacing front suspension parts







One difference on those that lack the zerk fitting is they are a plastic cup bearing design (as is the factory BJ) rather than metal. That means you don't have to grease them and they have less friction while steering, but are less impact resistant.

I vaguely recall that I saw a video somewhere on youtube where the person doing BJ's didn't even remove the tie rod end, just swung the whole knuckle out of the way while still attached, though I don't even remember if it was 2WD or 4WD (so you've got the half shaft to get out).
 






One difference on those that lack the zerk fitting is they are a plastic cup bearing design (as is the factory BJ) rather than metal. That means you don't have to grease them and they have less friction while steering, but are less impact resistant.

I vaguely recall that I saw a video somewhere on youtube where the person doing BJ's didn't even remove the tie rod end, just swung the whole knuckle out of the way while still attached, though I don't even remember if it was 2WD or 4WD (so you've got the half shaft to get out).

Yes, you can just leave the tie rod attached (2WD and 4WD are the same in that regard) though I prefer not to.

Tip to OP: Don't turn the wheels with the engine off or the next question will be.. "Why does my steering shake violently?"
 






Well I wrapped this up about a month ago now. Took to Firestone for an alignment. Although each caster was in specs before, the toes were out but brought into range. total cross caster is still out of specs and began and ended at .8 while the range is -.7 to .7.

Any thoughts? Concerns?
 






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