Binding while turning

[Lwisema]

I recently purchased a 2000 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 for a steal.... Or so I hope. I do know it need some work such as leaking sun roof and most likely ball joints. However, what has be baffled is a binding feeling primarily while turning.... So far I've replaced the front drive shaft (awd), driver side CV joint, all 4 brake pad/rotors, and driver-side rear calilper. The last on the list I thought for sure was the issue.. However today (first time I've fully driven it on the street to work) I notice the binding feeling once again. Seems to me as if the the wheel bearing is bad however once jacked up wheel turns smooth with no feeling of binding or medal on metal. Does anyone know if the front is a full time lock?... On a side note the tcase viscous coupler and chain is bad I suspect. My plan is to eventually convert to 4wd with the 4406 tcase however I am planing on driving till I aquire all the parts necessary for the swap. Any ideas? Also sorry for the long post I hope I covered any preliminary questions.

 

[XLTrunner]

You may be needing to change the t-case sooner than you think. Binding when turning is a classic symptom of a damaged transfer case. I don't know about AWD...but, on my 4WD Control Trac, it didn't take more than a few days before it became almost undriveable and needed to be rebuilt.

 

[Gary Crist]

Mine did the same (97AWD). As per recommendations here, I removed
the front drive shaft and my binding symptoms were removed too.

Time for 4406....

 

[XLTrunner]

If you remove the front drive shaft, be aware of the potential problem of the vehicle "creeping" when parked on inclined surfaces as described by other AWD owners.

 

[1998Exp]

You may be needing to change the t-case sooner than you think. Binding when turning is a classic symptom of a damaged transfer case. I don't know about AWD...but, on my 4WD Control Trac, it didn't take more than a few days before it became almost undriveable and needed to be rebuilt.

Can someone explain why binding when turning indicates a damaged TC? The front diff of all 2nd gen Explorers is open, so I would think that turning or no turning, the front driveshaft rotates at the same speed.

 

[Gary Crist]

The radius of a turn will have a short side and a long side. (not to be disrespectful)
The front turn radius will be different front to rear. AWD kicks in and clunk
clunk from the tcase kicking in.

It can also happen on some AWDs with worn tires front to rear too!

 

[Lwisema]

Mine did the same (97AWD). As per recommendations here, I removed
the front drive shaft and my binding symptoms were removed too.

Time for 4406....

I already have the 4406 tcase that was given too me. I now just have to source the drive shafts and figuring out the dog leg. Thank you for the help. Definitely stopping me from throwing parts at it.

 

[Lwisema]

If you remove the front drive shaft, be aware of the potential problem of the vehicle "creeping" when parked on inclined surfaces as described by other AWD owners.

I've read that multiple times. So when doing the brake I also replace the parking brake shoes in case pulling the drive shaft was the solution.

If you remove the front drive shaft, be aware of the potential problem of the vehicle "creeping" when parked on inclined surfaces as described by other AWD owners.

If you remove the front drive shaft, be aware of the potential problem of the vehicle "creeping" when parked on inclined surfaces as described by other AWD owners.

If you remove the front drive shaft, be aware of the potential problem of the vehicle "creeping" when parked on inclined surfaces as described by other AWD owners.

I've read that in multiple threads. So I replaced my parking brake shoes in the process in case pulling the the drive shaft was my solution. However pulling the drive shaft causing it to creep doesn't make much sense to me even through I'm sure it's a worn out question somewhere.. but to bank off that, would swapping to the 4406 tcase would it solve that issue?

 

[koda2000]

Creeping in PARK is a real thing. It has to do with the way the AWD system works (without a hard mechanical connection between the front and rear driveshafts). The AWD system works with a viscus coupling which normally applies around 35% power to the front wheels and 65% to the rear wheels. When slippage is sensed the viscus coupling heats up and stiffens, applying more power to he front wheels. If the coupling has been damaged by overheating (as when running tires of different sizes/wear) it does not recover to it's normal viscosity and continues to apply to much power to front wheels. Then it's a bit like trying to turn the wheel of a 4X4 on dry pavement with 4WD engaged. It binds. Ford recommends all 4 tires be w/in very close to the same wear and type. For this reason the AWD's are a bit of a PITA requiring replacement of all 4 tires at a time. Check you wear, tire measurements and diameters (including manufactures) to make sure they're as close to identical as possible. If the PO drove the vehicle w/dissimilar sized tires for any distance you viscus coupling may be toast.

My daughter once had a flat on her AWD Mountaineer and she had to use donut spare to get the vehicle home. During this short drive there was a lot of binding when turning. After replacing the bad tire the AWD went back to normal.

It doesn't matter that the front axle is open. One wheel is still driven. If your coupling is bad (or your tires are not a matched set) you will feel binding when turning.

 

[Lwisema]

A quick update pulling the front drive shaft fixed the binding. I do appreciate all the info. I have been exercising the use of the e-brakes. Also have replace all 4 rims and tires.