Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[FR-425]

You keep down-playing your fabrication skills, but they are pretty darn good.

 

[FR-425]

Wish I still had my Ex. Now that I just scored a $75K fleet mechanic position. Timing can suck some times.

 

[BKennedy]

Wish I still had my Ex. Now that I just scored a $75K fleet mechanic position. Timing can suck some times.

Congratulations on the new job. Thanks for the encouragement. Now you can go out and find another first gen.

Got the shocks installed today. It took a lot longer than I thought because they shipped it with 1.25" spacers and my mounts are setup for 1.5" spacers. Found some locally because I did not want to wait for them to ship me a new set. While I was getting the second shock installed, I dropped one of the spacers and spent an hour looking for it. Found it resting between the trans cooler lines and the engine mount after tearing the garage apart.

I set the ride height so it has the same compression/rebound as the previous set (5.5" compression, 8.5'"rebound). It is sitting a little tall. I think I can fix that by modifying the lower shock mounts. There appears to be enough room. Or, I could just throw a set of 37" tires under there and call it good. Got to drive it around first and see how much it really matters before I start cutting up the lower shock mounts.

You guys got me on the right track to fix the drag link binding at the pitman issue. I am going to pull the bolt out and see if I can drill it out and go with misalignment spacers under the pitman. It should actually lower the drag link to be aligned perfectly with the track bar.

Garage off-road pictures;

 

[BKennedy]

For the steering binding at the pitman issue: I currently have 3/4" rod ends. I am thinking if I drill out the pitman to accept a 3/4" bolt, then use these spacers from RuffStuff http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34-34SS.html

You think those spacers would give me enough room to get more drop?

 

[Kirby N.]

Good work. I'll put a crossmember on the list. I was thinking of plating the bottom of the motor mounts after I cut off the crossmember and building off of that. But the how would you change the motor mounts? I think you did good.

I think those spacers would help your problem.

 

[BKennedy]

I was under the Explorer after a good nights sleep, and realized I need to drop it 1/2" and really focus on moving the lower shock mounts down. Its too tall now and to leave it at that height only makes my pitman binding issue worse. I will have to get to that another day.

Here is my problem with changing anything at the pitman. I have a 7* tapered 3/4" bolt with a stainless steel sleeve. I really like how solid it locks into the pitman. I had to press out the bolt and the sleeve. The problem is, its a custom part and the shaft where the rod end would rest is only 3/4" in length. I need 2" for misalignment spacers (Spacers are .55" each, rod end is .87" in width, .55+.55+.87 = 1.97").

Picture of bolt and sleeve (next to a 4.5" long 3/4" bolt for reference):

The beginning of the taper on the outside of the sleeve is over 3/4" (7/8") The wide end is 15/16". In order to safely use a 3/4" bolt, I would need to make the hole in the pitman bigger, then sleeve it (would not be that hard to cut a piece of 1" OD x 3" ID tube to fit), but that is a big hole. Or have a custom tapered bolt made, which I am guessing is not cost effective, but would be much stronger.

Before I do any of those, I need to check clearances with the track bar. I will edit this post after I check. Out of time for today.

 

[FR-425]

Cage bearing maybe? I'm just swinging at a ball in the dirt here.

 

[BKennedy]

Nope. Don't want the bolt to move, just the rod end.

I found what I thought would work, but the taper is too narrow. Maybe I could find a smaller sleeve, or have one made.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

Still got to get the ride height issue done first.

 

[BKennedy]

Spent about 8 hours working on the Explorer today. Got the lower shock mounts lowered a little over 3/4" and outward slightly. Now Explorer is sitting 1" lower, same as with the other shocks.

New hole below old hole

Test fit, it works!! I moved the suspension around as much as I could in the garage, and the ball joint bolt never got close to the shock.

Also mocked up the pitman with a 3/4" bolt. I mounted the drag link with some 1/2" tall spacers I made out of 3/4" ID tube. I think with the misalignments, the rod end won't bind at full suspension droop. It clears everything, and puts the drag link at the same angle as the track bar. They used to be 1* off. Now, I just need to figure out how to get a 3/4" bolt to fit in a larger, tapered hole.
Steering at full right lock.

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......CoilOvers..

 

[BKennedy]

Another Pic. This is of the front axle hanging on the limiting straps.

 

[DB_1]

Nice work...those Radflos look sweet. I bet those lower mounts were fun to trim with limited space to maneuver the grinder.

 

[RockRanger]

Very Nice.

 

[WormsExplorer]

Very nice truck sir.

 

[FR-425]

Just to put another spike in your wallet!

Are you thinking it's time to upgrade the rear shocks? RadFlos maybe?

 

[FR-425]

Are you gonna do the Freak'n-stein steering shaft while your in there? I'm interested to see what you come up with.

 

[turboexplorer]

Glad to see the coil overs in. Can't wait for the when you get it in the dirt.

 

[BKennedy]

Nice work...those Radflos look sweet. I bet those lower mounts were fun to trim with limited space to maneuver the grinder.

I was very careful, especially with the brake lines. I cut them flat with a 4.5" thin cut-off wheel, then rounded both tabs off at the same time with a flat 40 grit flap disk.

Very nice truck sir.

Thank you

Just to put another spike in your wallet!

Are you thinking it's time to upgrade the rear shocks? RadFlos maybe?

No rear shock upgrades at the moment.

Are you gonna do the Freak'n-stein steering shaft while your in there? I'm interested to see what you come up with.

I have it on the work bench, its on my list of stuff to think about for awhile, then jump in.

Glad to see the coil overs in. Can't wait for the when you get it in the dirt.

I am planning on taking it for a drive tomorrow, but not sure if any dirt will be involved. Noticed my secret testing area that was 15 minutes from my house has a new locked gate. The shop I purchased them through said I will be very happy with the difference. He mentioned that Radflo's have "progressive" dampening that adjusts for the terrain and type of driving. We will see about that, my friends!

 

[josh40601]

sorry for no response on the pitman arm!

Why not drill all the way through then sleeve the pitman with a 5/8-3/4" stainless sleeve? Your side load deflection that would be placed on the 5/8" bolt would be counteracted by the double sheer. This is exactly what I did to fix my issue, but I ran the misalignment on top of the pitman because I don't have the room under due to the ram location.

 

[BKennedy]

I have a single sheer pitman arm. Would have to get it tig'd to turn it into double sheer, then it might have clearance issues with the track bar.

I thought about sleeving it, but am looking into options of having a local machine shop make me a tapered OD, straight 3/4" ID SS sleeve. Then I wouldn't have to make the pitman hole any bigger, and the tapered sleeve would lock itself into the tapered hole in the pitman. All they would have to do is turn-down some thick walled 3/4" ID SS tube at the right width and angle. Need to see if its cost effective.

Took the Explorer around town this morning. It rides very nice on the street, with less body roll that before. Drove over a couple of curbs just for fun, and it was very smooth. Need to go out and really wheel it, but I am going to tear into the oil leaks first.

 

[josh40601]

I have a single sheer pitman arm. Would have to get it tig'd to turn it into double sheer, then it might have clearance issues with the track bar.

I thought about sleeving it, but am looking into options of having a local machine shop make me a tapered OD, straight 3/4" ID SS sleeve. Then I wouldn't have to make the pitman hole any bigger, and the tapered sleeve would lock itself into the tapered hole in the pitman. All they would have to do is turn-down some thick walled 3/4" ID SS tube at the right width and angle. Need to see if its cost effective.

Took the Explorer around town this morning. It rides very nice on the street, with less body roll that before. Drove over a couple of curbs just for fun, and it was very smooth. Need to go out and really wheel it, but I am going to tear into the oil leaks first.

Understood and can see the benefits if it is cost effectively possible.

Are you going to TDS?