body lift for 07 Sport Trac?

[mn111234]

Anybody Know if an older body lift would work for an 07 Sport Trac?

 

[04mach1]

I do not think they make one but I maybe wrong.

 

[mn111234]

I know there are some for the 02's but I don't know if they would work on the new body style.

 

[psycareyo]

Gen1 lifts or lowering kits won't work on gen2 units.

There are no kits out there atm.

I remember reading on this site or mysporttrac.com that there are shafts that actually run through the frame on the gen2 ST thus allowing very limited lift or lowering ability.

 

[SKYNET808]

anyone know what problems they ran into in the idea of using the PA 3" Bl kit for 01- 05 on the 2007 (other than the added length which adds one more mount to each side ?)

 

[swshawaii]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375287

http://truxxx.com/ford-lift-and-lev...4x4-4x2-2wd-lift-leveling-kit-suspension.html

 

[King of So Cal]

anyone know what problems they ran into in the idea of using the PA 3" Bl kit for 01- 05 on the 2007 (other than the added length which adds one more mount to each side ?)

Stay far away from body lifts. Suspension is the way to go with these trucks.

 

[JohnnyO]

I'm not aware that the earlier bodylift would work on an '07-up. I would look in the regular Explorer '02-up Forums and see if there is a bodylift. You would have better odds of that working.
Gen 2 Trac suspension lift, you are limited to the Truxx spacer kit. As mentioned, travel is limited because the rear halfshafts run through a hole in the frame so you can only go up or down so much.

 

[SKYNET808]

BL is the way to go

Stay far away from body lifts. Suspension is the way to go with these trucks.

King- BL is absolutely the better way to go. to not deal with any CV changes, ball joint issues, ect. . .. that come along with Truxx + you get more inches.I have 3" in mine and I could have easly done 4 maybe 5 if i wanted to do a little more customizing on front bumper pieces and trims, brake and gas lines.

these trucks need lift/ tires to make them look right. Actually anyway you can do it is better than where you were -

 

[King of So Cal]

Body lifts do nothing for getting more clearance (except you can get a little more tire under there). If you have been off roading in your truck you would know that these trucks need all the clearance that they can get. I went with the suspension and I now have 13.25" of clearance: Which I'm still not totally satisfied with.

 

[Ronin8002]

Increasing the clearance between the frame, lower control arms, and the ground are key on these trucks. King of So Cal is right on with this...the Truxxx lift + bigger tires is the way to go to accomplish this.

having said that, one area a body lift does help with is getting the running boards/side steps further away from the ground...I cracked one last time I went offroading (at stock height) and hit a rock. Another benefit is it makes it easier to tuck a full size spare (in my case, 265/70/17) further up under the truck in the spare tire area.

Having said that you are limited by the fact that the rear bumper reinforcement that is integrated with the tow hitch is welded to the frame, so no way to move it up. Go with too much body lift, and you have an unsightly gap between the top of the hitch and the bumper cover, and the bumper cover must be trimmed to allow the body to move up past it. The front bumper reinforcement can be moved up but it will take some custom fab, same with the steering shaft needing to be extended.

Due to all of this, I went with a very mild body lift...1". It's not much but it did make a difference. No gap showing in the rear bumper area, and there was no need to move up the front bumper reinforcement, no need for a steering shaft extension, and no need to trim the lower cooling fan shroud. Basically I just bought some 2" body lift blocks and cut them in half, as well as new longer bolts to replace the OEM ones. The pics below show the before and after. Keep in mind that I am also truxxx lifted in the rear and I am running a custom Fox coilover shock setup in the front, which gives both lift and greater suspension travel. This allowed me to remove the front swaybar to allow better front suspension articulation without having any negative affects in body roll or the RSC kicking in:

Before 1" body lift:

After 1" body lift:

 

[SKYNET808]

Yea - Just depends on what purpose your ride is being modified for.

Super cool ride ronin8002 - Do you have fender extenders for yours?

 

[Ronin8002]

Super cool ride ronin8002 - Do you have fender extenders for yours?

thanks. not sure what you mean exactly by fender extenders, but if you're talking about the moulding around them with the fake rivets, they came on the truck stock. It's something they did for the Ironman edition explorers.

 

[naminad]

was this a hard process to do?
did you do any fabrication with the bumper and etc

 

[spammulle]

Increasing the clearance between the frame, lower control arms, and the ground are key on these trucks. King of So Cal is right on with this...the Truxxx lift + bigger tires is the way to go to accomplish this.

having said that, one area a body lift does help with is getting the running boards/side steps further away from the ground...I cracked one last time I went offroading (at stock height) and hit a rock. Another benefit is it makes it easier to tuck a full size spare (in my case, 265/70/17) further up under the truck in the spare tire area.

Having said that you are limited by the fact that the rear bumper reinforcement that is integrated with the tow hitch is welded to the frame, so no way to move it up. Go with too much body lift, and you have an unsightly gap between the top of the hitch and the bumper cover, and the bumper cover must be trimmed to allow the body to move up past it. The front bumper reinforcement can be moved up but it will take some custom fab, same with the steering shaft needing to be extended.

Due to all of this, I went with a very mild body lift...1". It's not much but it did make a difference. No gap showing in the rear bumper area, and there was no need to move up the front bumper reinforcement, no need for a steering shaft extension, and no need to trim the lower cooling fan shroud. Basically I just bought some 2" body lift blocks and cut them in half, as well as new longer bolts to replace the OEM ones. The pics below show the before and after. Keep in mind that I am also truxxx lifted in the rear and I am running a custom Fox coilover shock setup in the front, which gives both lift and greater suspension travel. This allowed me to remove the front swaybar to allow better front suspension articulation without having any negative affects in body roll or the RSC kicking in:

Before 1" body lift:

After 1" body lift:

Hey Ronin, I know this was some time ago but I'm going to do the same 1" lift on mine. Any chance you remember the bolt legnth and diameter needed for this project? Thanks

 

[Ronin8002]

Hey Ronin, I know this was some time ago but I'm going to do the same 1" lift on mine. Any chance you remember the bolt legnth and diameter needed for this project? Thanks

The existing bolts on the 4th gen are a larger size than the 3rd gen, and getting the right length, diameter, and bolt grade to be a direct fit for all of them was too expensive. So I went with a slightly smaller diameter and used nuts and washers underneath to secure them (on the underside of the pucks), as well as threadlocker compound. Here are the bolts you need for the 1" body lift.


1” Body lift requires the following hardware:
1/2" -13 x 7", grade 8 = qty 2
1/2 -13 x 5", grade 8 = qty 4
1/2 - 13 x 3", grade 8, qty 2
M12-1.75 x 100mm, class 10.9, = qty 2
1/2 -13 nut, grade 8 = qty 8
M12-1.75 nut, class 10 = qty 2
1/2" flat washer = qty 8

The 12mm bolts are for the front two mounts

The 1/2" bolts are for the rest of the mounts.

 

[spammulle]

Awsome thanks for the reply

The existing bolts on the 4th gen are a larger size than the 3rd gen, and getting the right length, diameter, and bolt grade to be a direct fit for all of them was too expensive. So I went with a slightly smaller diameter and used nuts and washers underneath to secure them (on the underside of the pucks), as well as threadlocker compound. Here are the bolts you need for the 1" body lift.


1” Body lift requires the following hardware:
1/2" -13 x 7", grade 8 = qty 2
1/2 -13 x 5", grade 8 = qty 4
1/2 - 13 x 3", grade 8, qty 2
M12-1.75 x 100mm, class 10.9, = qty 2
1/2 -13 nut, grade 8 = qty 8
M12-1.75 nut, class 10 = qty 2
1/2" flat washer = qty 8

The 12mm bolts are for the front two mounts

The 1/2" bolts are for the rest of the mounts.