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Broken passenger side rear window

Joined
February 24, 2007
Messages
42
Reaction score
4
Location
Long Island
City, State
Babylon, New York
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 XLT
2002 Ford Explorer 4.0L V-6. Heard an ugly grinding and cracking noise this morning from right rear window. Window now falls down track and won't stay up by itself. I removed the electric motor assembly and found bits of black plastic in the bottom of the door. The enclosed picture shows where it broke off. Seems its attached to the silver window arm, which is riveted to the window base track. Do I need to get an entire new window and motor to fix this, or can I somehow remove that bottom track and find another silver piece with the black plastic piece attached, at the junk yard? Is the black plastic piece available by itself? A little bent tab part of the metal silver arm is blocking me from removing whats left. Don't even know what to call it. Sorry. Thanks.

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While waiting, I found a 15 minute You Tube video showing a 2002 rear window regulator removal and installation here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgzblTEVb0U

as well as the part I think I need on Ebay for $90:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-Mountaineer-Window-Regulator-Motor-Rear-Passenger-Side-Right-/390387719002?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AExplorer&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae4ebdb5a.

Please let me know if this is the path to take.
Thanks,
Larry
 






My 02 broke same way rear passenger side but the cable is still on it works pops off the track going up & down also hits the glass when going up disconnected the switch so my kids cant mess with it never fix it been two years now I think gonna let ford fix it one day to tight in the door im not messing with it
 












Everything is all better. Ordered an aftermarket new replacement regulator/motor on Ebay for $90 shipped. Went in easy as pie. Everything lined up perfectly. I dremeled off the old rivot, and put in a short bolt with lock washer and loctite. Works better than new. Still seems to bind a little towards the bottom of the run, and its not the tracks. I think it needs some silione lubricating, and should be good to go. Easy job, and relatively inexpensive. Next....
 






jstorm001, how did you disconnect the switch so your kids couldn't mess with it?
 






jstorm001, how did you disconnect the switch so your kids couldn't mess with it?

I'm assuming he just popped the switch cover off and unplugged it.

Both my my rear window regulators are dead, got the new parts in the mail from RockAuto ($71 each) and will be installing them today.
 






Got my part in today to repair mine. Tomorrow morning's project. I was hoping to just bend the tine back and slip the new one on the metal bracket to avoid drilling the rivet but the new one doesn't have the same tine setup. Drat!
 






Finished. Drilling the rivet took the most time.

Sprayed the new track w/white lithium grease since most of the lube that was on there ended up on my hands.

Also sprayed the felt tracks w/silicone to help the window slide. This one always freezes shut in the winter, putting more stress on the plastic piece that connects to the window so hopefully this will help prevent the freeze-up this winter.
 






Thanks for the video. Replaced both rear motors & regulators and this thread helped out. As previously mentioned the rivets were the worst of it. At least that wont be a problem if one goes again!
 






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