Broken plastic?

[JKELLYN13]

I removed my oil pan today to see if any plastic was there due to hearing a rattle from the TIming chain around 2300-2800 RPM. These are the pics of the plastic. Anybody have an idea what it broke from and if it needs to be replaced emediately or can go as it is?

 

[Tech By Trade]

Pull your valve covers, that's part of the rear timing chain guide from the looks of it. Start pulling that engine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

rear guide piece

I agree with Tech By Trade. It's the piece at the top of the rear guide identified below.

There may be more pieces that didn't make it to the pan. My rear guide is shown below.

I finally found all of the larger pieces. Some were trapped in the head and the last one was behind the jackshaft rear sprocket. The following thread may be your next step: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair

 

[JKELLYN13]

Yea that is exactly where I had thought that it may have came from. THis truck is currently my only form of transportation so I was wondering, providing there are no other larger pieces that broke and have not made it to the lower pan, do you think that just that one pieve being broke will be an issue or can I ride with it as is untill I start hearing noised thats more pronounced? I also changed the oil yesterday and the entire drive home I never once heard any rattle from the timing chain. So the noise is worse when the oil needs to be changed so I'm thinking that frequent oil changes combined with new tensioners cause mine are still the factory ones with 205k miles on them may eliminate the issue for atleast the emediate future. Would you agree or am I just asking for more trouble?

 

[Tech By Trade]

That thing is going to fold like a dirty napkin. Its just a matter of time. You could start pricing out a replacement engine. Should only take you a weekend to drop in and its far less work and time then replacing the guides and chains and it will cost you close to the same amount. Drive till she drops and swap it out.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Unlikely only piece

I think it is unlikely that only that piece has broken off. It is on the inside of the chain with very little stress. I suspect the top guide bolt section broke allowing deflection of the outer section on the traction side.

I'm surprised that you don't have cold start rattle. There is probably enough slack in the chain for it to slip. I suggest that you avoid rapid engine speed deceleration because that is when there is slack on the traction side. In my opinion you've been lucky that it has lasted more than 200K miles.

 

[JKELLYN13]

Yea well I bought the truck about two and a half months ago for 3400$. The day I bought it rolled over 200k miles and now it has 205,089 on it. Never heard any rattle at all on start up and as I stated the noise goes away once the engine warms up and the oil pressure comes to where it should be. Thants why I initially believed it to be the tensioners only. Thank you for all the info guys. I'm getting married in october and we also have 2 small kids so thats why not a whole lot of money to spare. I may just roll with it as is and keep the fluids changed and see how long the engine does last. I have seen a long block on rock auto for 2500 and also I work for a toyota dealer so I can get parts cheap with our discount. So duess ride till it drops then swap it out.

 

[JKELLYN13]

The main reason I was wondering if yaw thought it would last is were driving about 4 hours away on our honeymoon in october and taking the ST. So that certainly would be the worst time for any major issues.

 

[JKELLYN13]

Ok so I changed the rear timing chain tensioner today because I believed it to be part of the rattle issue. It was only rattling at 2300-2800 RPM at first and was not very noticable after my oil change but was there. I was trying to prolongue the life of the engine and chain by changing that tensioner. I had to use a coworkers impact on it because it was so tight going in and i verified twice that I was not crossthreading. Once I got it flush and sealed I started the engine. I knew with would rattle badly while the new tensioner built up pressure, however I have let it run on 4 different occasions now since changing it for about 10 minutes each time to allow for some oil pressure build up. So far the rattle is still 10 times worse than before and while sitting at idle it sounds like a diesal. What may be causing the sound still? is the tensioner still not primed up or could I have cause much more harm than good? Also what are the suggestions about driving it home when I live roughly about an hour from where I work and it's some stop and go but mostly highway and backroads?

 

[rb142]

Yes you did more harm than good, and driving it at this point is suicide for the valves.

What happened is that the chain guides were already broken. Removing the tensioner removed the only pressure holding things in place, so all the broken plastic fell out when the tensioner came out. Forcing the new one in probably jammed a piece against the chain or somewhere else it shouldn't be. But at this point, the rear chain is certainly slack and will jump timing at the slightest chance.

If you want to avoid smashing the valves, do not even start that engine again until it is pulled out and all the timing gear is replaced.

 

[JKELLYN13]

Yea thats kind of what I was afraid of. I have learned to leave well enough alone from now on. HAHA. So I ended up getting it home while it sounded like a power stroke. haha. and now it's sitting. Going to use my moms extra car till get it fixed since I have a wedding to pay for in october no money free now to fix it. With my crazy work schedule I dont have time to pull the engine and do new chains and tensioners and with already having 205k mile on the engine I am thinking for longevity reasons going with a fully rebuilt engine or a crate engine and putting it in. Anybody know of any reasonable priced rebuilt ford engine companies or company I can get a reasonable crate motor?