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Busted Flexplate Question

I dont have pictures of the transmission but I just took some of the flex plate and torque converter.

Brooklyn, I am interested in getting a TC for cheaper than 250 yes, I dont mind shipping if it doesnt eat up the savings :) I am not sure my rig had a spacer... My Flexplate didnt seem to have a spacer, maybe this is the root of my problem?

On a side note, I think the guy that did the transmission work before I purchased the rig didnt seat the TC correctly and may have caused damage to the transmission. The bell housing is scratched up in the same place that the TC is, if you look at the picture. I know I need to replace the front seal on the transmission. How far should a newbie like me go into the rebuild process? I dont want to totally disassemble the thing, but if I can repalce bands etc easily, I dont see a reason not to.

Thanks again for everything guys, here are the pictures :)

IMG_1978.jpg


IMG_1977.jpg


IMG_1979.jpg


IMG_1982.jpg


IMG_1981.jpg
 



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This was an email that I sent James a few months ago:
Jaco Remanufactured Torque Converters
66-70 69 Th. St.
Middle Village, NY 11379
1-718-894-9524

I asked them a few questions about torque converters. He said that the A4LD 3.0 is a high stall, and the 4.0 is a low stall. He said that you could put a high stall instead of a low stall, but not the opposite way around. He charges $55 for the 3.0, and $65 for the 4.0 models. He was out of stock on the 3.0 model now, but gave me a phone # from one of his distributors that has it in stock. I called the place up, and they said that they charge $75 for both models. Here is their information:

Sands Automotive Warehouse LLC
2508 Coney Island Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11209
1-718-336-4686
1-718-290-9000 Extension 2222 (Mike)
This information was for the A4LD. Tell them that you have the 96 with a 4.0L. You then have a 4R55E. If your converter scraped everything up, I would suggest having the front bushing replaced. Here is an email from a place that does this kind of work. His email is Ptechllp@Bellsouth.Net.

I saw different listings for different types of bushings (oversize, brass, bronze, etc.). What type do you install?

We use a Sonnax 56001X bushing. It was made with .020” to come out of the bore. It was made specifically for this problem.

Does the 4R44E/55E, and 5R55E also suffer from the bushing problem?

The A4LD housings run out within a certain range. Each housing varies within that range. The 4R/ 5R housings usually run out towards the maximum of the range. They are really worse than the A4LD.

I think that the bell housings were made in a similar way. How long do you estimate the repair that your shop makes on the bell housing will last compared to a new one that came from Ford?

I machine the housing about 10 times better than it came new. It seems that the transmissions themselves just don’t seem to have the same life span when rebuilt as they did from the factory. That is the difference between “remanufactured” and “rebuilt”. Remanufactured means that everything in something was restored back to new condition. Rebuilt means that all major wearing components where replaced and everything else is still within reason to work properly. I can tell you that the sealing will outlast the transmission. I have seen some of my housings come back after years of use. They are still within tolerance and evenly worn on the bore.

Is there a warranty?

I have all the confidence in the world with my housings. There is one variable that I can’t prevent. Sometimes those torque converters are defective. They will heat up tremendously. They then burn up and take the bushing with them. If this happens to one of my housings, I will repair it for the cost of shipping plus $4 which is the cost of the bushing itself. I do ask that customers initially have the pump installed professionally using the proper tools.

Your website said that the cost is $40, but your previous email said $50. Was there a mistake?

The website has been up for 5 years. I have tried to access it to make changes, but I must not be doing something right because I can’t get to it.

We went from $40 to $50 about 3 ½ years ago. What happened was that originally if we had to machine the pump side we charged $25 extra. When locals brought in a housing we could determine if it would be needed. We then branched out and now send housings all over the USA and a few in Europe for the Air Force. When customers like you send in their housing. They like a fixed price. I was not going to tell customers they needed to send me an extra $25 for pump side repairs. So we figured up the average cost we incur from pump side machining and the rise in other costs and determined that we would charge $50 and if the pump side needed attention we would just do it at no extra cost. Sometimes when the torque converter burns up it damages the pump side. We can fix that.

Is your company part of Precision that manufactures rebuild kits?

Nope. We are not at all affiliated with them. I have spoken with Precision torque converters about their neck sizes. We tighten up on the bore size to get a better fit to the torque converter. I was verifying that this would work well with their converters. I have heard very good things about their converters. They are very reliable.

I'm in Brooklyn, NY 11210. What would shipping come out to (round trip)?

Since you will be sending it to me first, I will only need to send it back. The cost to send it to a business is $10.06. The price to a residence is $11.81. I can send it to you with a return shipping label. You may find that your shipping cost to me is higher than mine to you. I do a lot of business a year with UPS. I get a good price. If you have other housings you want to send later, I can include the return shipping label. The cost to a business is $17.92 and residential is $19.67. You just put your next housing in the box and put the return label on. The UPS guy will take it from there.

I posted your website on WWW.ExplorerForum.Com. A lot of people there repair their own transmissions, and are in need of this service from reading, and answering their questions about their transmission problems.

Word of mouth has been my best method of growth. Around here the transmission shops are all friends. If you give one of them a bad deal then they will all know what you did by the end of the week. Like wise if you do a good job they will do the same.

I was wondering if the original C3 also had this problem, since I've never heard of other transmissions having such a common problem with front seal leaks.

I don’t really know the answer for that one. I have a housing here that mounts the same way as the A4LD but it is mostly round with a pocket for the starter. The bushing in it ran out from the seal. It uses the same bushing. I guess it does not have the same effect in whatever it is like the A4LD has.

From reading your last email, it seems that the bell housing should be shipped without the pump, and I have to supply my own front seal when I get it back.

I will only need the housing by itself.

I encourage you to clean it real nice for me. Most of my business is with transmission shops. They send them to me cleaned so I don’t have to clean it and I reflect this in the price. I just need it clean enough where I can handle it without making a big mess. I don’t like grit getting into my very expensive precision tools. I don’t carry any front seals. Since I deal with transmission shops they have their own brand of seal they use and sealing chemical. I have heard that most do not use what comes in a rebuild kit. They prefer one from Ford. I think Ford has a better seal out now also.

You have a lot of good questions. I will have to do a Q+A forum, and post this email for others. I will try to fix the website. The pictures of the shop are my original shop outside of when I was in my shed. The facility now is many times larger with CNC machinery. I have come a long way. I am a service disabled veteran and I am now going to go after some federal work as a service disabled veteran owned small business “SDVOSB”. I hope to expand from there. The housings will eventually drop off in time.

Thank again,

Troy Legner
 






I got more pictures of the beast.
This is the driver side of the transmission.

IMG_1985.jpg


Passenger side, note the oil dranpan underneath :)
IMG_1984.jpg


Bell Housing, note the scratches from the torque converter spinning on the inside.
IMG_1987.jpg


I dunno why I just like saying pump and thrust...
IMG_1988.jpg


Inside of the transmission.
IMG_1983.jpg


Somesuch band (closest to top), and the material is starting to wear.
IMG_1989.jpg


Outside of the band.
IMG_1992.jpg


The top gear thing that the band rides on.
IMG_1990.jpg


Planetary gear, before I got scared.
IMG_1991.jpg


Pulled the planetary and gear started falling out (scarry!!!)
IMG_1994.jpg


Planetary Housing or somesuch, this is where I stopped too scared to continue.
IMG_1993.jpg


I have the bell housing at the shop now. The seal, thrust, bushing, and gaskets along with the torque converter are going to run me around 250. The shop looks good and the price is good for this area, and it will be done by the end of the day. The place is called Ashleys Transmission in Pasco, WA. I will let yall know how their work is.

Thanks again for this forum. The wealth of information here was enough to help me overcome my fears of pulling that first band. Without this forum I wouldnt have thought I could go any farther than pulling the transmission and sending it off to be worked on.

Cheers!
 






HAVE THE HUB RUN OUT TESTED on the new converter.

I have seen flywheels worse then that one, and I dont think that style flywheel breaks much, I suspect your install was either fubar'ed or something went wrong for the converter to hit bellhousing??? Others will know more then me but something went wrong in there for sure!

If its not seated properly during install it wont last long!
without the spacer the flywheel would not mount to the engine, nor would the starter engadge, your spacer is likely still stuck to the back of your crankshaft :)
 






You might as well replace the sppes sensor that is on the center support while you are there.Are you rebuilding the whole thing ?
 






Im trying not to rebuild the whole thing!!! :p

SPPES? Is that the black wire leading deeper into the nether regions of the tranny? It looks like it works, the prospect of digging deeper is frightening to me LOL...

I have another problem though, I removed the spacer I have some more pictures, do I need a new backplate thing for the spacer?

Flexplate without spacer and broken metal.
IMG_1996.jpg


New Flexplate
IMG_1999.jpg


Crankshaft Flexplate Spacer (old one, new one is ordered)
IMG_1997.jpg


Crankshaft Flexplate Spacer Washer??? (do I need a new one of these or will it come with the new spacer?)
IMG_1998.jpg
 






Can anyone answer if I need a new flexplate spacer washer thing? I purchased a flexplate to crankshaft spacer, but the washer thing was totally fubared, it went between the flexplate and the bolt heads. The 6 bolts went into the flexplate washer thing, then thru the flexplate then thru the spacer. Nobody has said anything about the flexplate washer thing, and it is really chewed up.

If anyone has any comments I would love to hear them. I want to do this right the first time, and I want this repair to last for years. Thanks again :)

Cheers!~
 












Brooklyn, I agree I want to replace all the bad parts, but I searched the forum and I find no mention of this part... I already purchased the crank to flexplate spacer you linked to me, but it does not mention the part on the other side of the flexplate. I have no idea what to call it, or if it is even necessary.

It has the thickness of a thick washer, about 1/4 inch thick, and is warped pretty bad. The metal from the center of the flexplate is melded into it as you can see from the photo. Unless that part does not belong there, maybe this washer thing caused the problem?

Again i havent found any mention of this part anywhere in my searches. If anyone has knowledge of this part please let me know before I button up my tranny without it.

Thanks :)
 












I believe this is a shim as well, but let me check on an engine in storage.....
Meaning you may not need it, but don't use that one!
 






Maybe I could get out my dremmel and grind it down.... KIDDING!!!

Cool, hopefully the Sonnax part will run double duty there and I can skip the washer thingy :)

Thanks again guys!
 






Im sorry i meant speed sensor its the black sensor that has one bolt on it that bolts to the center support you can see it in your picture they have a pretty good failure rate and its right there.
 






How far should I torque my bell housing? I tried a search and came up empty handed.

Thanks again guys, im well on my way to finishing this project :)
 






I believe its 30-35 ft lbs Always use a little thread locker too.
 






Update:

I put in all the parts and fluid and by 11:00PM I got her started up. I drove her out of the shop and parked her till tomorrow when I can do more. I was short a few gaskets on the exhaust anyway. Today I plan to make sure the fluid is topped off and there are no leaks. If all goes well it should be running by the end of the day.

I did notice that the Catalytic Converter sounded like it had rocks in it when I put it back on. I am guessing this is a sign that the cat is bad. Now I know what my next project will be :)

Thanks again Toy, BB, Glacier, and Fortune for all the help, I couldnt have done it without you.

I want to acknowledge my tranny shop. Their prices were quite fair and they were very helpful, the place is called Astleys Transmission in Kennewick, WA. If you are in the tri cities and need a tranny shop these guys are fast and they do good work.

They charged me 200 ish for the rebuilt TC which is cheaper than all the other tranny shops in the area, and they did my pump seal and bushing for about 25 bux, which is much less than their competitors. They have alot of tranny parts stocked too, more then the local ford dealer.

Cheers!
 






Well crap, the O/D off light still flashes when I get up to 50+mph. I was hoping (wishing) that this fix would solve that problem too. I adjusted the overdrive band (the first one in I think), and it still flashes.

I want to read the code out of the PCM but I dont want to pay 50 bux for them to hook it up and test it. Is there any way for me to test it myself or to take it somewhere and have a code pulled from the PCM?
 






Did you replace that speed sensor?
 



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