C-notching the rear.

[Spdrcer34]

What brand of C-notch are you guys running, or have run?

I don't mind a weld-in C-notch, actually I would prefer it. I would like something in the 6" range for a C-notch. Can that be done with little/no body mods?

Ryan

 

[dreamr]

Excuse my stupidity, but what is a c-notch?

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Excuse my stupidity, but what is a c-notch?

I believe that would be, cutting the frame and welding a C shaped notch over the axel for the purposes of slaming the sucker to the ground.

Think 'Street' not 'Trees' , I know that is a foreign concept for you

 

[Billy177]

why? it completely defeats the purpose of owning one in the first place

 

[james t]

why? it completely defeats the purpose of owning one in the first place

No, it defeats your purpose of owning one.... not everyone elses.

Sorry Spdrcer34 cant help you on which notch to run..... there really arent that many X's on this site with that much drop. Most of the lowered guys around here stay in the 2-3" range and i think we have maybe only one member that is bagged. Do some measuring to be sure before you buy- i dont think you can run a 6" notch without getting into the floor but i may be wrong. If you did have to buldge the floorpan it wouldnt take much.

racinjason68 has a bagged 1st gen and is a member here.... maybe pm him and ask what notch he ran and if he had to get into the floor or not.

 

[dreamr]

I believe that would be, cutting the frame and welding a C shaped notch over the axel for the purposes of slaming the sucker to the ground.

Think 'Street' not 'Trees' , I know that is a foreign concept for you

Yep pretty foreign to my thoughts, but at least I learned something new today.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Yes dreamr, I want to drop the X while maintaining a good ride. Alot of the 'harshness' with a dropped vehicle, is the fact that the axle has little/no travel left so it is always hitting the bumpstop. If you move the bumpstop UP you can maintain a good ride as you won't be hitting all the time.

I think I'll have to go with a 8 pc C-notch that I have to assemble and weld myself. I just wanted to know if any of you guys would recommend someone over another to buy from.

Ryan

 

[dreamr]

See, shows what I know about a lowrider, but in theory that seems like a good solution to low ride quality. So are you gonna have this dropped before our BBQ?

 

[Robb]

Just an offroader talking here................but in the area of the rear axle, there is only +/- 4" between the frame and the body (and it runs very close the spare tire housing). How can you run a 6" notch in an area where you only have 4", without pretty major body mods? This is under the assumption that the notch is made of frame material the same height as the stock frame...........I guess you could made up an inch for every inch difference in height between the two.

edit: my 4" reference is in respect to 2nd gens......not sure if 1st gens are different

 

[Spdrcer34]

The Rollpan I am going to install will take away the spare tire anyway. Isn't that what 'roadside assistance' is for?

I am not sure about the actual clearance from the housing to the body, but if I need to cut and modify the body a bit, I can do that. Or make the notch a 4" instead of a 6".

I don't think I'll have the C-notch done in time, but I should have the front dropped by then. I already have the rear done (3") but it looks freakin' dumb with just the rear dropped. I will have my 18" Saleen's on by then though!

I am going to get dropped I-beams (3") and drop springs (2") for the front, and mono-leafs (~3") and a block (3") for the rear.

Ryan

 

[racinjason68]

Well me and slammed X on air are running a 10" notch.... And yes it will get into the body... I think slammed was damn near laid with just a 2" frame notch.. If that is right then the 4" should be plenty for what your doing... We need bigger cause of tire size and really getting low... But to do that the gas tank needs moved and alot of other stuff needs to be done to the under side of your X... Look under it, anything below the frame must go up or out... Ya kinda sucks the roll pan eliminates the spare but I think when done I am gonna figure out a way to at least get a dough nut under there just in case. JamesT is right there are not many on here that are super low... But I have one and for the rest of you, I also have a lifted X.... best of both...
Check out my web page.....

Yes That low on I-beams....My web page

 

[Spdrcer34]

I'm not really trying to lay frame. Too many issues to contend with when attempting that....atleast when starting with a stock frame. Tube chassis is another story totally.

I think I'll do a 4" notch to start with, if I need to step it up a bit, I can do that later.

Jason, you and slammedX have A TON OF HELP FOR ME.....Thanks!

As soon as I recieve expo5.0's rims, my 'progress' pics will REALLY look good! LOL

Ryan

 

[expo5.0]

hey, sounds good. soon as i receive the $ i'll get you the rims lol.

i too am going to try to do teh biggest C notch i can without cutting into the body asap. I hope to be able to do 3" or so and keep the frame stiff enough. it is going to be a bit of a challenge i'm afraid to do more than that without cutting into my sub box space.

 

[racinjason68]

Expo5.0 I have seen some make c notches out of 2x3 thick wall square tubing... Just a Idea.... Should be interesting to see your X when finished...
I like the non bolt on mods.... Just have not got into my interior as much as you have. Lack of fiberglass experiance, is a big reason...

 

[Spdrcer34]

I am going to buy a 6" c-notch, and cut it to size.......

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[expo5.0]

racinjason- did you change your aim name? i had some questions i was gonna ask you before actually.

i think i have my set-up all figured out at this point though, but i'd still like to talk to you if you got a minute. i'm at wattsupcustoms now on aim.

i'm trying to figure out how much drop a 1600 lb stereo and sport monoleafs would give me.... so i can then figure out how big of an angled block to buy. i was going to go through the work of doing a 4-link but i think with all my weight i wont' see enough of the advantages. any guesses on what block size i might need-

or would it be better to use larger blocks and keep my stock leaf spring packs if at all possible. i was just thinking about the geometry of things and that would be better right? to keep the springs as close to their stock shape as i can?

i'm going to do my very best to make a c-notch large enough that i can tuck a bit of my 20" in the rear. its gonna be tight fit, but seems possible to do with a 265.35.20 and the largest notch that will seem safe. the tire will be almost on or on the inner well, an the axle will be on the notch, but thats life.

 

[boominXplorer]

i'm trying to figure out how much drop a 1600 lb stereo and sport monoleafs would give me.... so i can then figure out how big of an angled block to buy.

Those sport springs would probibly break. Im for damn sure they would have a negitive arch

 

[expo5.0]

so you think i should start with stock leaves and 4" angled blocks and see where i'm at drop wise? that was my original plan after i found out i was going to get teh battery deal and run so many.

 

[racinjason68]

I would just start with the block setup, as 1. it is a cheap setup and 2. It will be a good starting point to see where it will set. A 3" drop and taking a leaf out had my 20's about a inch or so from the fender wells. So with your 1600lbs and full leaf and a 4" angle block, I think you will be at a good starting point. I think if your gonna bag it get it as low as possible on the rear and then put the bags on, as you will be using the bags to support the weight, and 1600 lbs is not to much Xtra on a set of RS62's or 72's.... Slam bags also have a great ride when setup right. My MSN name is the same racinjason68

 

[the_tool_man]

Hi Expo5.0:

I would use the stock leaves with blocks until you are sure of your final ride height and ride quality. Such large blocks will probably cause some spring wrap issues on hard acceleration, but it would be relatively inexpensive and easy to change ride height. Once you know you're going to stick with what you've got, you could get a set of springs de-arched to give you the same ride height without such a large block.

Regards,
John.