Can the engine and transmission be hoisted out together through the engine bay?

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

4.6L / 5R55S

I have some "wish list" projects that require lots of access to both the engine and transmission, and hell, it'd be a whole lot easier if they were both out of the vehicle.

I've been looking at what's involved to drop the transmission, and it looks like a whole lot of disassembly of adjacent components.

On the other hand, if I could pull both together straight out the top, that seems like it would be a lot easier.

I want to work on:

• Replace torque converter
• Replace bellhousing separator plate (it's missing)
• Exhaust manifolds (messed up studs/ broken flange)
• Oil pan gasket
• Oil pump
• Engine mounts
• Inspect timing tensioners/ guides (why not)
• Intake manifold/ gasket
• Valve cover gaskets

I know I don't need to pull the engine for the last two or three items, or really for most of the items. But it would make things a lot easier if it was coming out of the vehicle anyway.

Looking for input from you guys. Should I drop the trans and leave the engine in place, or pull them both together up and out? I don't have access to a lift, so anything I do would be on my back in the garage with it up on jack stands.

I don't have a hoist either for that matter, but they're cheaper than a two post lift.

 

[96firephoenix]

Per the 2002 factory service manual, yes for V6 and V8.

Also per the 2002 FSM, the hood, radiator, trans cooler (if installed), AC condenser, and fan/clutch/water pump have to be removed in order to get the engine/transmission assembly out of the bay.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Per the 2002 factory service manual, yes for V6 and V8.

Also per the 2002 FSM, the hood, radiator, trans cooler (if installed), AC condenser, and fan/clutch/water pump have to be removed in order to get the engine/transmission assembly out of the bay.

Thank you very much. Still seems easier than doing it on my back with 10" of clearance!

 

[Drewmcg]

I don't understand why you want to pull the trans--all of that can be done by just pulling the engine. Unless you think removing the bell housing and flexplate bolts will be harder than disconnecting the trans. and pulling it entirely.

A little tricky to align the engine and trans once separated, upon re-install, but not too bad if you keep the right angle on both.

I've pulled two 4.0's, and while getting the bell housing bolts out/back in is not fun, its doable (and you get better at it). On the second job I replaced the torque converter from the (empty) engine bay (easy)., and even upgraded the trans pump from there (not hard if you either get lucky or spring for a $75 tool).

Is yours 4x4? Do you have to remove the trans cross brace entirely if you pull both together? Have you looked at the videos about how those brace bolts always bust and how to repair?

If you do pull both together, It's be great if you'd post photos. I'm interested to see how it goes, 'esp. b/c I want to get a 4.6 3v 4th gen someday and might want to do this, too.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

I don't understand why you want to pull the trans--all of that can be done by just pulling the engine. Unless you think removing the bell housing and flexplate bolts will be harder than disconnecting the trans. and pulling it entirely.

A little tricky to align the engine and trans once separated, upon re-install, but not too bad if you keep the right angle on both.

I've pulled two 4.0's, and while getting the bell housing bolts out/back in is not fun, its doable (and you get better at it). On the second job I replaced the torque converter from the (empty) engine bay (easy)., and even upgraded the trans pump from there (not hard if you either get lucky or spring for a $75 tool).

Is yours 4x4? Do you have to remove the trans cross brace entirely if you pull both together? Have you looked at the videos about how those brace bolts always bust and how to repair?

If you do pull both together, It's be great if you'd post photos. I'm interested to see how it goes, 'esp. b/c I want to get a 4.6 3v 4th gen someday and might want to do this, too.

Hadnt occurred to me to just leave the trans in and pull the engine. "Luckily" my transmission crossmember bolts are already snapped from the last time someone dropped it and didn't fix it, so part of the plan was to grind off the spot welds and extract the bolts.

If/ when I decide to tackle this job I'll definitely document it here!

 

[shucker1]

Not to mention that the weight of the entire assembly will be greatly increased and you (CG) Center of Gravity is going to shift way back beyond the point of where it would be by just pulling the engine.

Not saying it can't be done but that "Puppy" is gonna be tail heavy big time.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Not saying it can't be done but that "Puppy" is gonna be tail heavy big time.

Yikes. Could add balance problems with the old girl on jack stands. Maybe I'll rethink and look at leaving the trans in for this job. The crossmember is already welded. It seems like a lot to take it out, just to fix those snapped bolts.

 

[shucker1]

Not trying to say the chassis assembly will be tail heavy.

The engine and transmission combination will be Tail Heavy. Worse if you have a transfer case included.

If the chassis is supported by jack stands along the frame rails and not the lower control arms there should not be much weight shift involved.

You might get a little lift from the rear springs.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Not trying to say the chassis assembly will be tail heavy.

The engine and transmission combination will be Tail Heavy. Worse if you have a transfer case included.

If the chassis is supported by jack stands along the frame rails and not the lower control arms there should not be much weight shift involved.

You might get a little lift from the rear springs.

Oh ok gotcha