Do I dare change the timing chain???

[Mitchs07explorer]

so I'm currently in the middle of changing my water pump (all bolts out and cleaned up), after that I'm going to change my Cam position synchronizer and sensor. Changing out the cam synchronizer requires me to put piston #1 at TDC. The engine has 166k on it and sounds like people start to see a stretch in their timing chain even after only 100k miles. The Haynes manual recommends changing out the timing chain if there's more than a 10 degree difference on the crank pulley when the #1 is at TDC. What's the easiest way to determine if my chain has stretched too much, I felt like the Haynes manual was kind of vague in describing how to look for the problem. I want to make sure the cam synchronizer is installed correctly so I don't have to dig everything back out again. I was thinking about trying the pencil or screwdriver in the sparkplug hole trick to see if the zero on the pulley lines up as the pencil or screwdriver stops moving upward I just wasn't sure how accurate that method is. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[1998Exp]

so I'm currently in the middle of changing my water pump (all bolts out and cleaned up), after that I'm going to change my Cam position synchronizer and sensor. Changing out the cam synchronizer requires me to put piston #1 at TDC. The engine has 166k on it and sounds like people start to see a stretch in their timing chain even after only 100k miles. The Haynes manual recommends changing out the timing chain if there's more than a 10 degree difference on the crank pulley when the #1 is at TDC. What's the easiest way to determine if my chain has stretched too much, I felt like the Haynes manual was kind of vague in describing how to look for the problem. I want to make sure the cam synchronizer is installed correctly so I don't have to dig everything back out again. I was thinking about trying the pencil or screwdriver in the sparkplug hole trick to see if the zero on the pulley lines up as the pencil or screwdriver stops moving upward I just wasn't sure how accurate that method is. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I wouldn't sweat this at all. A new timing set, chain and gears, is around $50.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

I wouldn't sweat this at all. A new timing set, chain and gears, is around $50.

So all I have to do is replace the chain and the sprockets, is there anything else that I might as well do if I'm in there? I found the 5.0 chain and sprockets on stockwise auto for about the price you quoted, a company called Melling makes all the parts. I'll shop around and see what other brands are out there, I'll definitely use a quality part.

 

[fastpakr]

Sealed Power makes a set for about $25 - KT3163SA1. Melling's is a similar price for 3163SB.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Sealed Power makes a set for about $25 - KT3163SA1. Melling's is a similar price for 3163SB.

I just bought the sealed power kit and the felpro gasket kit. Thanks for the advice on the part.

 

[shucker1]

Which engine?

5.0 ? Chains usually bullet proof.

I was thinking about trying the pencil or screwdriver in the sparkplug hole trick to see if the zero on the pulley lines up as the pencil or screwdriver stops moving upward I just wasn't sure how accurate that method is.

The pencil in the spark plug hole is not going to tell you anything about the chain.

That will only tell you TDC of the piston.

If you want "Chain Stretch" your going to have to get the RB valve cover off and rig up a dial indicator on the valve stem retainer and check actual "Opening Event" of the intake valve.

If it's not the 5.0 and it is the 4.0 SOHC I would just replace the chains.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, do the timing chain set in SBF's anytime over 100k, when you have to dig down to the timing cover, such as doing the front seal, balancer, or WP. I need to do all three of those, and the radiator, fan, so yes the timing set gets R&R'd too, when I get time.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Which engine?

5.0 ? Chains usually bullet proof.



The pencil in the spark plug hole is not going to tell you anything about the chain.

That will only tell you TDC of the piston.

If you want "Chain Stretch" your going to have to get the RB valve cover off and rig up a dial indicator on the valve stem retainer and check actual "Opening Event" of the intake valve.

If it's not the 5.0 and it is the 4.0 SOHC I would just replace the chains.

It's the 5.0

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

If I don't need to mess with it I won't, I'm not looking for trouble

 

[Centaurus5.0]

If the rig is in excellent shape and planned on keeping it around, I'd say do it. Getting all the water pump bolts out intact on a 97' is a good sign! If you have another vehicle and sound like your not in a hurry, do everything you can now, all at once. An issue that pops up is the timing cover leaking after changing a water pump. Take the opportunity to clean and true up gasket surface of the cover and block. Taking your time on installation will be key. While it's all apart, inspect the damper, clean the crank sensor, grease your idler pulleys, new pcv while your dirty, lube the cam sensor, thermostat?, basically inspect and service everything now that you can't easily get to when it's together. Nothing expensive really, just tedious and time consuming things that while make it last longer, run better and a few less leaks and squeaks..

If you don't see yourself still owning it in 5 years then I'd say slap the pump back on and if the cover does leak pour some k-seal in and get your use out of the rig.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

If the rig is in excellent shape and planned on keeping it around, I'd say do it. Getting all the water pump bolts out intact on a 97' is a good sign! If you have another vehicle and sound like your not in a hurry, do everything you can now, all at once. An issue that pops up is the timing cover leaking after changing a water pump. Take the opportunity to clean and true up gasket surface of the cover and block. Taking your time on installation will be key. While it's all apart, inspect the damper, clean the crank sensor, grease your idler pulleys, new pcv while your dirty, lube the cam sensor, thermostat?, basically inspect and service everything now that you can't easily get to when it's together. Nothing expensive really, just tedious and time consuming things that while make it last longer, run better and a few less leaks and squeaks..

If you don't see yourself still owning it in 5 years then I'd say slap the pump back on and if the cover does leak pour some k-seal in and get your use out of the rig.

I'm in no hurry on it, it's a project vehicle I picked up for $400. Initially I picked it up thinking I'd throw a few bucks at it and clean it up good and sell it for a profit. The body is in great shape, the interior was more gross than trashed (family with young kids had it before) and I was able to clean it up and plan on doing more to make it even nicer. Now the longer I've had it the more potential I see in it and want to keep it for my own use. All those other things you listed above I plan on doing and might even do the main rear seal (not leaking bad but if I've got the time I'll do it). I figure at the very least with everything I want to do to it I know I'll be able to get my money back out of it and probably turn a profit. These little SUV's are really popular in my area right now, I've seen the V8 models in good condition sell for more than what KBB suggests. Anyway, I figure I'll do all the work and at the very least earn a good education from it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good plan, they are very tough trucks, with minimal issues to watch out for.