Ford008
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2004
- Messages
- 163
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- City, State
- Oak Harbor, WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 5.0 Mountaineer
SoNic67, you are partially correct in your statements; Yes, a spacer will increase torsional stress on the studs/lug nuts, wheel bearings and ball joints if you use them to change the 'stock' offset (as the manufacturer designed it), like using the OE wheels and a 1.5" spacer. It is the same as running a wider wheel with the same or less backspacing as a stock wheel (which people do all the time).
Now, if you use a different wheel, like the OP has, with more backspacing but use a spacer equal to that difference, those forces are not changed (as long as everything else stays the same). You are saying it will increase the load on the original studs/nuts, but as far as they are concerned, the centerline of the wheel (offset) and it's leverage hasn't changed at all, and the load on the wheel's new studs/nuts (again, leverage) hasn't changed from what it was originally designed for. This is a -1" on the wheel, +1" on the wheel mounting surface, and that = 0.
The ball joints and wms don't experience a difference either, because as they see it, they two changes (-1+1) cancel each other out (still equals 0) so the leverage placed on them from the wheel is still the same as it was with the OE wheel.
Soo, if everything stays the same in relation to the wheel CL and the bearings/joints, there are no additional loads or 'torque' as you call it. The CL of the wheel is still in the same place as it was originally, the distance from the CL to the wms is still the same and the 'new' wheel is still bolted on to the same place as it was on it's original car.
The only thing we are adding into this equation is the spacer itself...how strong is it and does it have quality studs?? MercuryMullet has experience with the some of the cheap Chinese studs (sorry Bro!), LOL!
Now, if you use a different wheel, like the OP has, with more backspacing but use a spacer equal to that difference, those forces are not changed (as long as everything else stays the same). You are saying it will increase the load on the original studs/nuts, but as far as they are concerned, the centerline of the wheel (offset) and it's leverage hasn't changed at all, and the load on the wheel's new studs/nuts (again, leverage) hasn't changed from what it was originally designed for. This is a -1" on the wheel, +1" on the wheel mounting surface, and that = 0.
The ball joints and wms don't experience a difference either, because as they see it, they two changes (-1+1) cancel each other out (still equals 0) so the leverage placed on them from the wheel is still the same as it was with the OE wheel.
Soo, if everything stays the same in relation to the wheel CL and the bearings/joints, there are no additional loads or 'torque' as you call it. The CL of the wheel is still in the same place as it was originally, the distance from the CL to the wms is still the same and the 'new' wheel is still bolted on to the same place as it was on it's original car.
The only thing we are adding into this equation is the spacer itself...how strong is it and does it have quality studs?? MercuryMullet has experience with the some of the cheap Chinese studs (sorry Bro!), LOL!