catlin
Member
- Joined
- August 8, 2013
- Messages
- 10
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Signal Mountain TN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 Explorer XLT
Here is another test for pinpointing the door ajar alarm problem. I have a 2002 Explorer XLT. Several weeks ago the door ajar alarm came on with a vengeance when the car was started. Door locks opened and shut, the dome light flashed and the ajar alarm sounded repeatedly, all as if a demon was in the car. I read many helpful threads on this forum for a solution. Nothing worked. I sprayed WD-40 in the handle slits. I checked the wires in the driver's door and passenger door for breakage in the door boots. Replaced the ajar switch in the driver's door, thinking this was the likely culprit. Nothing worked. The demon was as wild as ever. The car was not even drivable due to the noise. I began to loathe the car and Ford. I had no clue where the problem was.
Exasperated, I finally took the trim and speakers off both front doors but left the wires hooked up to the latches. I started the car. (no problem even with the window switches hanging loose) I jiggled all the wires and connections in the driver's door. Nothing amiss. Then I got in the passenger seat and jiggled that door's wires. When I went for the door ajar switch and felt the wires entering it, the demon roared to the touch. The switch was bad. You can't see that switch, but you can follow the wires down to it and feel it. Took the switch out and found it was kind of wet down there around it. The push button at the switch's tip was stuck and would not extend fully. Replaced it with a DS-1607 from Ebay (about $46). Dealer wanted 108.00 for it (1L2Z14018AB is the current part number). The passenger door ajar switch and driver's door switch are different. They have small metal mounting teats in different locations on them so they can mount at the correct angles in each door.
Having spent many hours inside these doors and wrangling with infernal yellow clasps, taped-up wires and such, I would first recommend a good jiggle test before you start taking things apart randomly. This would also apply to the back door latch area and, I assume, the back seat doors.
Exasperated, I finally took the trim and speakers off both front doors but left the wires hooked up to the latches. I started the car. (no problem even with the window switches hanging loose) I jiggled all the wires and connections in the driver's door. Nothing amiss. Then I got in the passenger seat and jiggled that door's wires. When I went for the door ajar switch and felt the wires entering it, the demon roared to the touch. The switch was bad. You can't see that switch, but you can follow the wires down to it and feel it. Took the switch out and found it was kind of wet down there around it. The push button at the switch's tip was stuck and would not extend fully. Replaced it with a DS-1607 from Ebay (about $46). Dealer wanted 108.00 for it (1L2Z14018AB is the current part number). The passenger door ajar switch and driver's door switch are different. They have small metal mounting teats in different locations on them so they can mount at the correct angles in each door.
Having spent many hours inside these doors and wrangling with infernal yellow clasps, taped-up wires and such, I would first recommend a good jiggle test before you start taking things apart randomly. This would also apply to the back door latch area and, I assume, the back seat doors.
