Door switches don't work on 2014 explorer

[2014expl]

Master window/mirror/lockout driver switch or passenger door switch operate. Problem was intermittent not now. The switches don't light up on ACC or running. Pulled master out of door, pin 1on plug(black wire good grd. No other pins had power. Pin ten had .35 volts on ACC. Pulled negative cable battery to reset stuff that worked on ACC but not when car was started. Could not repeat the reset. Any advice appreciated.

 

[J_C]

I'd check for a frayed green/violet wire in the door hinge connector, that supplies power from the BCM to the master switch panel, or easier is check for 12V relative to chassis ground when key is in accessory or run position, then if no 12V, check continuity of the wire between the master switch panel and the BCM. I don't know where the BCM is but I bet some topic in this forum mentions that, how to most easily access it (probably in the dash, maybe behind glovebox or maybe not.

 

[2014expl]

I'd check for a frayed green/violet wire in the door hinge connector, that supplies power from the BCM to the master switch panel, or easier is check for 12V relative to chassis ground when key is in accessory or run position, then if no 12V, check continuity of the wire between the master switch panel and the BCM. I don't know where the BCM is but I bet some topic in this forum mentions that, how to most easily access it (probably in the dash, maybe behind glovebox or maybe not.

I'd check for a frayed green/violet wire in the door hinge connector, that supplies power from the BCM to the master switch panel, or easier is check for 12V relative to chassis ground when key is in accessory or run position, then if no 12V, check continuity of the wire between the master switch panel and the BCM. I don't know where the BCM is but I bet some topic in this forum mentions that, how to most easily access it (probably in the dash, maybe behind glovebox or maybe not.

I'll give it a try. When I tested I went from car side of master plug pin 10(grn/vlt) to negative post of battery and read .35v

 

[J_C]

Yes assuming you had the ignition switch in accessory or run, your 0.35V measurement should've been near battery/alternator voltage, 12V+.

Here's a post with one diagram and the larger set linked below it on Mega (link now added to my sig below):

2014 Explorer wiring diagram / intermittent window

Does anybody have the wiring schematic for a 2014 Ford Explorer power windows? Alternatively -- any advice how to attack a passenger side rear window which only works intermittently in the 'up' direction (works perfectly in the 'down' direction? I plan to pull the door skin and get the...

www.explorerforum.com

I'm suggesting don't worry about all faulty functions at once, focus on one circuit like the windows and if that starts to work, probably was the same fault for all functions lost.

On the diagram I noticed an Accessory Delay relay, drawn inside the BCM. Note sure if it's actually IN the BCM or not. The Service Manual probably mentions location.

 

[2014expl]

Yes assuming you had the ignition switch in accessory or run, your 0.35V measurement should've been near battery/alternator voltage, 12V+.

Here's a post with one diagram and the larger set linked below it on Mega (link now added to my sig below):

2014 Explorer wiring diagram / intermittent window

Does anybody have the wiring schematic for a 2014 Ford Explorer power windows? Alternatively -- any advice how to attack a passenger side rear window which only works intermittently in the 'up' direction (works perfectly in the 'down' direction? I plan to pull the door skin and get the...

www.explorerforum.com

I'm suggesting don't worry about all faulty functions at once, focus on one circuit like the windows and if that starts to work, probably was the same fault for all functions lost.

On the diagram I noticed an Accessory Delay relay, drawn inside the BCM. Note sure if it's actually IN the BCM or not. The Service Manual probably mentions location.

Thanks JC I'll check it out when I get home tonight

 

[J_C]

BCM is up under the dash, driver's side. Access/removal instructions attached, came from the previously linked service manual. This is if it doesn't have Intelligent Access. If it does, same location, more wires and procedures in the service manual.

 

[peterk9]

Master window/mirror/lockout driver switch or passenger door switch operate. Problem was intermittent not now. The switches don't light up on ACC or running. Pulled master out of door, pin 1on plug(black wire good grd. No other pins had power. Pin ten had .35 volts on ACC. Pulled negative cable battery to reset stuff that worked on ACC but not when car was started. Could not repeat the reset. Any advice appreciated.

Welcome to the Forum.

Peter

 

[2014expl]

BCM is up under the dash, driver's side. Access/removal instructions attached, came from the previously linked service manual. This is if it doesn't have Intelligent Access. If it does, same location, more wires and procedures in the service manual.

If I bring 12v + and - direct from batt to the back of (plugged in) master switch plug at plug pin10 GR/VT and blk pin 1 shouldn't the switch work if it's good?

 

[J_C]

^ Yes, though the front motors appear to have their own separate grounds, rather than a return wire to the switch panel completing the circuit ground to power the motor itself.

I've attached the 2014 Workshop Manual section for troubleshooting windows. The rest of the manual is linked below in my sig.

 

[2014expl]

^ Yes, though the front motors appear to have their own separate grounds, rather than a return wire to the switch panel completing the circuit ground to power the motor itself.

I've attached the 2014 Workshop manual section for troubleshooting windows. The rest of the manual is linked below in my sig.

With power to the plugged in switch at pin 1 and 10 something should work on that switch

 

[J_C]

Is that a question or a statement? You can also use a multimeter to see if the switch contacts are closing the circuit. Power in will be continuous to power out switch pin on one of the two motor wires, in one up/down switch position, and continuous to the other motor wire switch pin, in the opposite up/down switch position.

You can also check continuity between the switch connector, and the corresponding connector pin at the motor to check the wire, but better to check for resistance rather than only continuity in case the wire frayed and is barely conducting.

 

[2014expl]

Is that a question or a statement? You can also use a multimeter to see if the switch contacts are closing the circuit. Power in will be continuous to power out switch pin on one of the two motor wires, in one up/down switch position, and continuous to the other motor wire switch pin, in the opposite up/down switch position.

You can also check continuity between the switch connector, and the corresponding connector pin at the motor to check the wire, but better to check for resistance rather than only continuity in case the wire frayed and is barely conducting.

It was a question. There are no mechanical switches just a large circuit board

 

[J_C]

Different kind of switches, but still switches, still same process of measuring whether power goes in, and goes out on the corresponding plug contact when the switch is activated. This makes it more likely that you do need the ground pin on the module, grounded.

The workshop manual pages I attached recently, along with the whole manual linked in my sig (since it has "most" of the links in it working unlike the PDF printout of the pages that I attached), is something else to try.

 

[2014expl]

Different kind of switches, but still switches, still same process of measuring whether power goes in, and goes out on the corresponding plug contact when the switch is activated. This makes it more likely that you do need the ground pin on the module, grounded.

The workshop manual pages I attached recently, along with the whole manual linked in my sig (since it has "most" of the links in it working unlike the PDF printout of the pages that I attached), is something else to try.

I can connect it directly to the negative side of battery. I wanted to thank you for the manual pages. Very difficult to get at the stuff under the dash. I would like to rule out the master switch if possible

 

[2014expl]

Different kind of switches, but still switches, still same process of measuring whether power goes in, and goes out on the corresponding plug contact when the switch is activated. This makes it more likely that you do need the ground pin on the module, grounded.

The workshop manual pages I attached recently, along with the whole manual linked in my sig (since it has "most" of the links in it working unlike the PDF printout of the pages that I attached), is something else to try.

Well I dug out the relay for the BCM and it tested bad. Replaced it and everything is working as it should. I appreciate your help. The road is always a little easier with someone along for the ride. Thanks again!

 

[J_C]

Glad it's solved! Was that the Accessory Delay Relay, and was it physically in the BCM box or (where?) elsewhere?

 

[2014expl]

Glad it's solved! Was that the Accessory Delay Relay, and was it physically in the BCM box or (where?) elsewhere?

No it was not it was in the fuse box which is near the BMC. I looked in the fuse box in engine compartment and found 8 of the same part number so I used the one designated to wipers and now all window switches work as they should. Thanks again Dave