Dropping tranny tomorrow - advice?

[Tedybear]

Holy frick - why have i never realized this?!
Done my F150 a few months back and that really would have come in handy. Im doing my explorer this weekend so i get a chance to try it out.

This must be Explorer Clutch Month! Posted an update on our headache on the other thread.

Are you sure it didn't just blow the line off the slave cylinder? I've heard issues where Perfection Clutch Slaves had problems and the line would blow off the slave. While it's great they figured out a method to use a quick release clip- If that isn't 100% seated it can launch off the slave when you least expect it. (This is the same one that Autozone and Advance sells under the 'house brand name'.)

We've got an extra master and line here just in case that proves to be an issue. Not that I want to use them.........and I hope we don't LOL!

Get the one that's filled and already purged of any air. Bench Bleeding the master and line 2 times on ours was a huge PITA! (And I'll have to do that again, as the slave managed to get air bubbles back into the master/line again....)


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[Zachary Beck]

This must be Explorer Clutch Month! Posted an update on our headache on the other thread.

Are you sure it didn't just blow the line off the slave cylinder? I've heard issues where Perfection Clutch Slaves had problems and the line would blow off the slave. While it's great they figured out a method to use a quick release clip- If that isn't 100% seated it can launch off the slave when you least expect it. (This is the same one that Autozone and Advance sells under the 'house brand name'.)

We've got an extra master and line here just in case that proves to be an issue. Not that I want to use them.........and I hope we don't LOL!

Get the one that's filled and already purged of any air. Bench Bleeding the master and line 2 times on ours was a huge PITA! (And I'll have to do that again, as the slave managed to get air bubbles back into the master/line again....)


S-

Yeah the line popped off and melted. Then blew when I pressed the pedal to shift.

 

[Tedybear]

Yeah the line popped off and melted. Then blew when I pressed the pedal to shift.

If I can ask. Did you use the slave with the retaining clip (aka, perfection clutch design). Or did you use the standard type that has the circle of finger grips....

Our parts for the trans should be in tomorrow. Which means I'll be able to start reassembly. Which was the brand of Slave that you went with? (And on the better side. The line pops off, but that if memory serves also has a valve to seal it. So that's at least part of a saving grace.)

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[Zachary Beck]

Yes I used the quick connect with retaining clip. I had just gotten back from an off-road mission to this swimming spot which was extremely bumpy - so I'm guessing it became loose and popped out when got on the highway and shifted into fourth (was a bit heavy footed when I hit the clutch pedal).

The hydraulic line had been popped out of the slave so many times for bleeding, it didn't have the most solid connection.

Anyways, I bought a new line today ($97!) and was expecting an easy install - which it would've been - but I lost the pin that connects line to master cylinder when I hammered it out. After spending about an hour looking for it, I opted to jam a metal hook in there which was the same diameter. It served the same function as that pin, keeping the line from popping off under pressure..

The only tools I had were a vice grip and screwdriver (wasn't able to get it to my house when the line blew) so I had to pull the whole hydraulic system out where the fuse box sits. I won't go into this.. It wasn't easy or fun.

I bench bled the master, slapped it in there, and connected the new line to slave. Sure enough no pressure in the pedal.. So I bled the slave (by myself.. It's doable). This got the air out and I could once again shift! As of now it's working fine.

I don't blame perfection quick connect design for my issue with the line popping out, but rather my decision to not replace all three parts at once.

Anyone who is planning to replace a component in there clutch hydraulics would do well to replace the assembly as a whole. I learned this the hard way, unfortunately.

 

[Tedybear]

I'm glad it's been taken care of. And yeah...pulling the master cylinder out.. I've had ours out 3 times. The guide always says to pull the inner fender skirt. We're actually able to just reach up and twist-release-pull that snot out. The one issue I did note with that quick release clip, and you being in CA shouldn't be an issue. Extreme cold!.... That tends to thicken up fluids, even DOT-3. Looks like that might help the clip come loose under extra pressure and the cold effecting the clip. Might just be anecdotal stories that some people consider when theirs pops off?

Having my own little issue with the LUK slave we picked up. It looks like the release bearing has rotational wear pattern on it from being used. (it's very clean!....) But that pattern has me concerned. I inspected the line attachment and noted fluid remains and a black spec of crud. It was also free floating in the LUK box, and lacked anything else in the box other then the input line seal. RockAuto's going to have the warehouse guys pull one off the shelf and look it over and see if's normal to have wear on the release bearing and such from maybe 'product testing' from when it was built.

Between that and the exhaust studs all snapping. $60 bucks later and I hope to have the stud fix clamps on Saturday or Monday. I need to get this completed.. I'm okay driving the wife's car. But a VW Beetle with a dancing flower pot thing glued to the dashboard doesn't quite look "Manly" when I'm driving down the highway LOL>

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[Zachary Beck]

That's odd. The part should be brand new.. Mine had paper covering the thrust bearing - it was nice and shiny when I took it off, with no signs of wear. I bought the PowerTorque one from Oreilly.

The Luk one should be better quality, maybe they did test it before selling. I have no idea.

That sucks man, but at least you have a way around for the time being. Hehe.

 

[Tedybear]

Got the response from Rock Auto. Yep... Someone tried it and tossed it back into the box. I'll toss a couple of photos...

You can see the fluid with moister pooling. And a small chuck of black at about position 3:18....

And of course...Pretty clear where the fingers where rubbing against the release bearing.

RockAuto said no problem with doing a return. I'll likely request a RMA and have them ship out a replacement. I'm in no mood to risk putting this into the truck, considering it's been clearly installed once already. No idea why it was returned?

Just another fun day!

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[Zachary Beck]

Man I keep getting air back in the system somehow. I can't figure out where it's coming in because every component is brand new but when I bleed the slave I just get continuous air bubbles.

I'm thinking maybe the bleeder tube I'm using doesn't have a good enough seal and is just leaking air back in while I bleed it. But I can't seem to find any tubing that fits over the bleeder nipple just right.

I disconnected the master cylinder and am unable to push the rod down so I'm ruling out this as the the source of the leak, along with the brand new hydraulic line I just bought.

I just don't get why I'm able to drive for a few days and shift fine - then once again it becomes contaminated with air, despite having replaced every possible component. Very frustrating.

Hope you have better luck with yours, this has been a nightmare for me.

 

[Tedybear]

Ours isn't to far behind. Just got in the "Stud Fix" parts for the exhaust broken studs. Frankly $60 bucks for about $3 bucks worth of steel and a weld. Funny part is that another ebay seller has these 'cheaper' by $5.00. The not so funny part is when you see the guy wants something like $25 bucks shipping per set.

The old slave on ours is boxed and shipping out tomorrow (Monday actually) Rock Auto is paying the costs for the shipping and re-shipment at their end. And it's going to a NY address on Long Island. So about 2 days to get there...1 day to inspect...and 2 days to get me one that I hope is new.

I just don't get why I'm able to drive for a few days and shift fine - then once again it becomes contaminated with air, despite having replaced every possible component. Very frustrating.

This is the exact issue we are dealing with. Notwithstanding the fact the clutch that was in the truck was in 'fair' shape....Worn..but eaaa....Could have stayed in there a bit longer. We bleed ours our several times and it did the same thing ('bench bled the master') It kept getting air into the master/line somehow... And you're right. Frustration is setting in..

I did find this:

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=66840.0

It's a similar problem to the one we are both having. Mine is likely the slave, due to the fact each time I flush/bleed out the fluid it always comes out with black gunk and looks like someone dropped black ink into the fluid. But it kinda makes sense. Considering how the bleeder line seems to come out the top of the slave, and the curve down and out above the in-port.

Not sure what else to suggest. It shouldn't be acting up..

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[Tedybear]

Any updates on the air issues? Still on hold with ours until the new slave comes in.

Been racking my brain trying to figure out where the air could be coming in from on yours....

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[Zachary Beck]

Nope, haven't done much with it for the last couple days. Saving up some cash to get a bleeder kit and a few other things before I attempt to bleed the slave again.