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Fed up with this Explorer so I came here$

BroeB1

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September 6, 2020
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City, State
Albert Lea, Minnesota
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 ford explorer
Hello everyone!
92 explorer runs great for 3 seconds then falls on it's face. No power, engine shakes.. Changed out a lot of parts and no luck so far. Hoping this is the place to search for the answer!
Anyways Hello!
 



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What is the fuel pressure when the problem is happening?
 






I have to get a tester to check it yet. However the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel lines, TPS have all been replaced along with the coil, plugs,wires, CPS. All the grounds seem fine. The compression is normal from what I gather after testing it. Can't find a vacuum leak anywhere. It has been modified so there is no dash to be able to use a method that I was reading about to get codes. Also has no O2 sensor. That's been deleted.. It all ran fine. Left it for a week and haven't been able to get it running good since.
 






Also when it was running right we had the air intake modified to delete the MAF.. It all ran great!
 






a 92 computer cannot run without the MAS and 02 sensor.....................if it ran it wont for long, these are CRITICAL components the the EFI and DIS systems
 






Ok will try with both attached again and give it a shot. We had 96/97 that ran perfectly fine without I figured this one would be good too?
 






Both attached and still runs the same. Bought new and still the same too. Runs great for 3 seconds and then rough / motor shakes and a severe power loss.
 






Sounds like it is pushing too lean... a vacuum leak was a good first guess and I still wouldn't rule that out until I cap every vacuum line. IAC is a possibility, fuel starvation is a possibility. If I could catch every new 1st generation owner, I would tell them to buy an EVTM manual, an ODB-I reader, and a fuel pressure gauge right up front. The ODB reader isn't going to be much help to you on this though, all those disconnected parts, you are going to have codes like crazy no matter what.

It ran fine, sat for a week, and this started happening. You know, with all that stuff disconnected, it's trying to run on the computer's internal calibration rather than using sensors, it's in a fail safe mode, and that will work... albeit with lower horsepower and lower mileage. But maybe it's not able to go back to the failsafe mode for some reason. I might try disconnecting the battery overnight, just for grins... see if a computer cold reset gets you back in the race. I might borrow a fuel pressure gauge from your parts store, usually that's a freebie.

Yeah, I would unhook the battery overnight as a first step, then plug all the vacuum ports to rule that out because it's such a good match for the symptoms, then fuel pressure test. I would not buy more parts until I did these tests.
 






I would think that if it is running awful with the MAF connected and Disconnected then it could very well be a faulty MAF sensor.

MAFis VERY important, o2 sensor maybe not so much as its only before the cat.


Could you take a video of it running or anything?
Is it possible that you may have gotten the firing order messed up?
MAke sure the plugs are properly gapped?
How about the fuel filter?
did you check the fuel pressure regulator?

Just spit balling ideas.
Let me know if you have any questions about any of those as ive extensively been all around them lol
 






I will plug the vacuum and give that a shot.
I bought and installed a new iac as well.
Have tried unplugging the battery for a few days even and no luck with that.
Will give the fuel pressure a check.
I have replaced the regulator as well hoping that would help something and no luck.
While it is running I unplug the Mass air flow and it will kill the engine so I'm thinking it's not that? Have tried more than one MAF as well.
Firing order I have checked about 10 times.
Have tripled checked the gap multiple times. Acted up like this before changing the plugs anyways.
Right now I have a non stock pump/tank with no fuel filter. So that can't be stuck. Has ran the same with and without the stock pump/tank. Have tried multiple pumps with the same issues. Unsure how to upload a video on here?
It will run great for a few seconds. I can rev it up and it sounds awesome.. Then something makes it run like crap. I tried to move it how it is now and I could barely get it to move even with my foot to the floor on the pedal. Will give a few of these a shot and let you know what happens.
 






You know what else does this... we talked about vacuum leaks, but this really could be anything letting 'unmeasured' air into the intake. There is a plastic duct between the MAF and the throttle body, the big black plastic accordion thing. There have been many cases of this duct developing holes and cracks on the underside where you can't see it. Really easy to check, you have probably had it off a dozen times, but this time, look carefully between the pleats, flex it, just to rule that out. It's a pretty common problem, and unaccounted for air will make the engine run lean.

And, it runs great for a few seconds because for the first maybe 3-5 seconds, the engine is running off an internal computer calibration, not using the MAF/O2 sensors to determine fuel injection. It just looks at RPMs and doses the fuel.
 






The whole plastic accordion thing has been replaced since I've had this issue as well. Have switched to an aftermarket system which is all sealed and good to go. I did do a little bit more messing around with the 02 sensor just for giggles.. Had it running badly like normal.. Unplugged the 02 and noticed no difference. Plugged it back in and no difference either. Just got a brand new one of those too. Possibly faulty?
 






Yeah, it could be any component that the computer uses to determine fuel dose, or anything letting unaccounted for air into the system. And fuel starvation is still on the table too. Since you have a new part in hand, no reason not to try it.

Before, you had all this stuff disconnected, but it seems like you have all the sensors connected now. Reading codes now might give a clue. Any hope of finding an OBD-I code reader you can use on the OBD port? I know you said the dash is modified out.

I'm a big fan of cause and effect. You said "Left it for a week and haven't been able to get it running good since." so I want to double-check that. You literally had it running fine, shut it down, walked away for a week, and when you came back, you had these symptoms?

The MAF sensors you have tried, were any of them known-good (not junkyard pulls)? Here is a link to do MAF testing on the sensor and circuits:
 






Is the check engine light still there?
And the diagnostics port under the hood?
 






Have ordered the OBD1 so that will be on the way soon.
The MAF that I have tried were junk yard pulls. So I said F it and ordered one.
We had the accordion thing disconnected from the intake. Sprayed some cleaner in it. It was dirty. Sounded great while cleaning it. I don't remember touching anything after that besides reattaching it.

The dash: speedometer/ volt meter and whatever else is on there is removed.
If the diagnostics port was there factory it should still be there.

Hooked up a fuel pressure tester today. Was around 40 at all times. Didn't change.
 






Tried to drive it a few feet in the driveway just for giggles... Pedal to the floor and it went like 1 mph if that helps identify anything? This is the first vehicle that I have extensively worked on myself and am still learning.
 






Have ordered the OBD1 so that will be on the way soon.
The MAF that I have tried were junk yard pulls. So I said F it and ordered one.
We had the accordion thing disconnected from the intake. Sprayed some cleaner in it. It was dirty. Sounded great while cleaning it. I don't remember touching anything after that besides reattaching it.

The dash: speedometer/ volt meter and whatever else is on there is removed.
If the diagnostics port was there factory it should still be there.

Hooked up a fuel pressure tester today. Was around 40 at all times. Didn't change.

Good, your FP was 40psi?, at idle I presume, however, the FP must also be checked while the engine is under heavy LOAD! This is the most important time to maintain constant FP. If you loose FP while the engine is under heavy load, the engine will lean out and fall on it's face, ZERO POWER!
 






fuel pressure should be 36-42 psi at the rail
You sprayed cleaner in the throttle body while it was running?

Without a dash the alternator will not charge because there is no battery indicator light in place............
 






Checked fuel pressure under load and it was right around 40.
Don't really need an alternator for my application.
But put the gage cluster back in while battery was unhooked. Hooked it back up and same results.
Unhooked the battery again and put in New O2 sensor and MAF and reconnected battery.. Same thing.
Finally got a OBD1 reader so I had the battery unhooked put that reader on (first time ever using one).. Hooked up the battery, turned the ignition forward and thought I must have not been doing it correctly somehow because no codes were being shown.. Heard multiple clicks and so I started it up for giggles and it ran like normal!
So it looks like the issue is solved although I'm still unsure exactly the issue was. Thank you all that have attempted to help me. It is very much appreciated.
 



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