flashing o,d light

[ste uk explorer]

hi you guys
its been a while since i was last on the site . i finally got my 98 lifted an some tasty 15 x 10 & 33 x 12 .50 mudders on .so thanks for everyones advice .now i have a different problem .my overdrive light starts flashing after a few miles of driving and my engine management light has come on . i have took it to my local garage but no one stocks the it gear for the explorer over hear <story of my life> any ideas you guys
ste uk

 

[ExplorerDMB]

No one has a scanner to use on your Ford? I know you guys have some Ford Focus' and stuff over there - so someone should have a Ford Scanner or a program that'll work with Ford and OBDII. I don't know what kind of help I can give you without knowing the codes.

-Drew

 

[IZwack]

^^^ what Drew said - - u really need it scanned first.

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

I've Got The Very Same Problem On My 97 Auto Petrol With L.p.g. Conversion
Ive Got A Local Garage With A Scanner And It Will Go There Monday. Problem Is Everytime It Is Due To Go In For A Check The Problem Dissapears And Does Not Show Up On The Scanner.
When I Have The Problem It Is Fairly Evident That The Diff Has Locked Up On The Rear Drive As Some Minor Shuddering And Clunks Are Noticeable Which Go Away As Soon As The Light Resumes Its Normal Status
At The Moment The Light Is On And Hopefully Will Stay On Until Monday, Then We Will See What Codes Register And What The Solution Is

 

[Eneurb]

You've probably got an issue with the vehicle speed sensor calibration with the bigger tires. As far as I know, every Ford dealer in the world should have a diagnostic machine called WDS, and with that machine they should be able to recalibrate the PCM to your tire size...

 

[IZwack]

You've probably got an issue with the vehicle speed sensor calibration with the bigger tires.

i dont think the size of the tires matter cauz when i lifted mine and put on 33s, i didnt get any errors. the only thing that will be off is ur speedometer - but no new codes or blinking lights should come on.

 

[Eneurb]

The PCM does monitor and compare the vehicle speed sensor and the output shaft speed sensor, and can set a code P0720 if the varience is too great (which I have only ever seen on vehicles with rear axle mounted speed sensors). I guess knowing the code that is causing the light to flash can give us a bit more info.

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flashing O/d Light

O.K. my explorer complete with flashing light went under the scanner (no charge from my local non Ford Garage and done within 5 mins of going into the workshop)
Result- Scanner read out a description of the fault, 'Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance, or stuck off. code was requested and showed as P741
Diagnosis:- Solenoid needs cleaning and/ or adjusting or replacing.
Transmission guys will look at it tomorrow and determine precisely what option of these will fix it
WATCH THIS SPACE for the result!

RESULT.
I was prewarned by the transmission specialists that the only sure way to tell if this was a problem caused by the solenoid and torque converter clutch , was to change it. Trying to rectify the existing unit would cost the same and be a waste of time, particularly if it did not work. The caveat was that there was no guarantee that fitting a new one would work but it was the most likely solution and the cheapest, so I said do it!
They did it at a cost of £300.00. I drove the car for a day and no annoying light. Today after 10 miles of side roads as soon as I get up some speed on a major road, on came the light.
Took the car back and the same code and fault shows op on the scanner
OPTIONS
1) Fit a new PCM and see if this cures it (there may not be anything wrong with the existing PCM - cost about £500.00
2) rebuild the transmission (very expensive) :thumbdwn:
3) ignore the problem and disconnect the battery when the fault occurs (This is o.k. for me but not for my wife who also drives the car)

What bugs me is that merely clearing the fault code via the diagnostic computer, not only stops the light from flashing but gets rid of the fault as well.
There has got to be a simple solution, even the transmission guy says the box shifts up and down superbly when there is no fault light on but when it comes on,the torque converter clutch locks up the diff and causes shudders on the lower gears when the car slows down

Come on Guys lets have some thoughts from your own experiences, I am reluctant to beleive the transmission is crapped

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flashing o/d light

Any help on my current problem (see thread) would be appreciated

 

[IZwack]

hey there, when i replaced my transmission, i bolted up the new one and everythign was fine but I was experiencing the same problem as you are.. the O/D OFF light would blink after a while.. and the 741 code would come up. disconnecting the battery for a few minutes would then clear the memory but after a bit of driving, the O/D OFF light would blink again. when the O/D OFF light would come on, the vehicle could not go into overdrive and so the engine was spinning higher than normal at highway speeds. shifting was also very very hard.

heres my thread on this problem:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119117

to sum it up, the solution to my problem was to replace the valve body. now i'm not 100% sure if this is whats going to solve your problem but its one option.

you can replace the valve body if you've got the proper tools - one thing thats very important is that you use a torque wrench that reads in inch-pounds intead of the usual foot-pounds.

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flashing O/d Light

We are going to try one other thing first
My Garage mechanic has managed to demonstrate the slight juddering that happens when th o/d light is on, in certain conditions even when the o/d light is not on.
This in his opinion is a condition where at the change up from first to second or from second to third, the clutch is not engaging momentarily and therefore not creating the 1:1 ratio that the PCM is expecting for the gear that it has selected.
For some reason on highway driving only, on my vehicle this triggers the o/d light, I have read that others have this exact experience.
(Cant get it to come on When driving on local roads, must get up to a reasonable speed, but it is not an overdrive problem as this still works and can be verified by checking the revs decrease or increase when the overdrive button is depressed)
The logic from my mechanic is:- If the gearbox is fully engaging and there is no constant cluch slippage then this is only a momentary problem at the moment of the shift taking place and his 'cure' will be to add a special lubricant to the transmission fluid to overcome the slight 'hang up in shifting' problem. He has done this on other vehicles with similar transmissions with success and we will try this on mine in ten days time when I come back from holiday. The transmission expert who changed the solenoid, says 'Cant do any harm to try it and it might just work'
If this does not work, then I guess its a further examination of the tranny and a valve body change and/or torque converter change before considering anything else
An additive only will be a comparatively cheap fix

 

[Gonefishin4lyfe]

Mine is doing the exact same thing, i have a 97 with the 5r55e and i had the solenoid replaced and the transmission started acting up again, doing the same thing, hard shifts, and not locking in the torque converter. Let me know if that additive works and what its called. I need something done because everytime I drive long distance on a trip i have to pull over to reset my computer at least 2 times.

 

[IZwack]

be careful tho cauz i mean a good-working transmissoin shouldnt need anything but ATF to work properly... this fluid that ur mechanic is going to add might simply "mask" the problem. just my 2 cents

about the 2nd to 3rd shift problem, there has always been a problem at this shift point with these transmission.. some call it as the "2-3 lag" .. dunno if its related to ur transmission tho.. i think its been discussed on this board a few times.

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flasing O/d Light- Valve Body

Yes IZwack! I am concerned about the fluid additive despite what my received advice is
You changed your valve body and I may well do the same as everything works perfectly most of the time.

Does any one know the part Number for the valve body?

Indeed is it nescessary to change the complete valve body or just clean it and insert a new valve for the TCC ?

see the thread:-

Valve Body Rebuild Journal Reassembley-w/pics

or try the link

www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126461

be sure to type the search for the thread exactly as above, as it is case sensitive and wont find it if you type it slightly inaccurately

This gives a complete surgical step by step examination and rebuild of the valve body

 

[IZwack]

you can find the valve body online... i did a quick search and found this one place.. about 200 USD after the core. shipping to the UK will be a killer tho.

http://www.phoenixhardparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=402

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flasing O/d Light- Valve Body

Thanks IZwack
I am wondering if a full blown replacement is required bearing in mind the additional info that I have referred to in my edited posting

 

[IZwack]

of course u can try cleaning/flushing out the valve body first before a full replacement - that'd probably be the most logical approach.

btw- the link in your edited post is not active.

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flasing O/d Light- Valve Body

Thanks for that IZwack
Dont know why it didnt work. I've amended the posting now and deleted the link and substituted the 'Thread' which if you search for it brings up a very detailed anaysis of the refurbishment of the valve body and some interesting follow up comments.
Going to discuss this with my technical guys at my garage and transmission specialist next week

 

[EXPLORERLPG]

Flashing O/d Light

We decided to try the additive first.
The additive was wynns auto transmission fluid
It definately improved things insofar as the light takes longer to come on and also sometimes goes off on its own without me taking any steps (such as disconnecting the battery) to make it go off
This definately reinforces the view that the problem is associated with the valve body, the valve and the ball behind the valve. i.e. it is moving more freely but not freely enough, and now sometimes unsticking.
We are going on a 470 mile trip this coming week so if the additive is going to do anything more, it will have plenty of chance, but it looks to me as if servicing the valve body etc. is the next step

 

[94ZebraRanger]

My 95 explorer started doing the same thing after playing in the deep snow,( draging bottom) but the tranny shifts fine, even into o/d. I may have it checked just to make sure there is no problems. I wonder if it got snow up in the machanicals or????

Tim