Help! Stabilizer bar really loose!

[RomeovilleIL]

After torquing, the sleeve can still turn just should be stiff not rattling around loose. Full lock is the steering wheel all the way turned one direction until it is at maximum left or right turn. You dont want to leave the steering wheel at full lock for very long, maybe just a bump because it places a lot of stress on the power steering system. You'll be able to tell because the wheel wont turn any further and pump will be louder with the increased pressure.

 

[jweb1369]

I got ya. I did it a few times and it went away slowly without having to shut the car on and off. On the drive home I didn't feel any shaking in the steering. Thanks.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Well done!

 

[Lube]

Torque specs are innacurate for fasteners with bushings or lock nuts, IMO.

Torque specs are fine with lock nuts (of any design), but you have to add the running torque (torque required to turn the nut after the locking element engages the threads) to the final torque needed.
Example: Torque needed is 50 ft. lbs., running torque is 15 ft. lbs. Torque to 65 ft. lbs. and you're dead on.

 

[swshawaii]

Lube- Excellent info, thanks!

 

[jweb1369]

Torque specs are fine with lock nuts (of any design), but you have to add the running torque (torque required to turn the nut after the locking element engages the threads) to the final torque needed.
Example: Torque needed is 50 ft. lbs., running torque is 15 ft. lbs. Torque to 65 ft. lbs. and you're dead on.

So this is the torque for the end links?

I noticed since I replaced them, my shocks aren't squeaking anymore. I guess it takes some of the load off of them when going over bumps, even though the shocks are somewhat new. They were mad squeaky before every time I went over a speed bump, even though the shocks are somewhat new. In my apartments they installed these super huge speed bumps that will nearly blow out your tires if you go too fast over them. I swear they are only 1" lower than a sidewalk curb, the biggest speed bumps I've seen in my life. They don't slope or anything, just straight up and down. When people go over them fast the drop is so much that it makes their tires squeal. Every time I would go over them my truck would sway back and forth like crazy. It would whip everyone around in the cab. Now that I installed these end links, it is about 1/4 the amount of bouncing back and forth. Couldn't believe the change. My friend used to always joke about how going into my apartments was like going into a war zone. NOT ANYMORE!

 

[swshawaii]

Remember, the Ford spec for OEM front end links is 15-21 ft/lbs.
The Moog K7275 replacements are a different design, with softer bushings.

Sway Bar Link Installation Guide.
For the product to function correctly. Tighten the nut
until the bush starts to expand. Loosen the nut 1/4 turn.

 

[jweb1369]

Remember, the Ford spec for OEM front end links is 15-21 ft/lbs.
The Moog K7275 replacements are a different design, with softer bushings.

Sway Bar Link Installation Guide.
For the product to function correctly. Tighten the nut
until the bush starts to expand. Loosen the nut 1/4 turn.

I don't think they could have given any less detailed instructions. It's really hard to tell if they are expanding unless you really crank it down. I'm gonna keep mine where they're at though. There has to be some degree of error in there if their instructions are that obscure. I'm sure any auto shop would torque them suckers down until they bulged.

 

[jlrohio]

I didn't want to start another thread as I've searched various sway bar bushing and sway bar link discussions/threads.

Today, I felt & heard a hard clunk while driving home. As if a rock had been thrown up underneath my drivers side front end. A few minutes later I heard it again! And again, and again as I was driving. There was no rhyme or reason (hitting a bump or sometimes hitting a bump would cause this clunk).

I got home and noticed that the top of the drivers side sway bar link was sheared off and this must have been the noise.

I note that there are many discussions about what sway bar links are recommended. I am going to go with the MOOG K-7275 and follow the advice I've read on their installation and recommended torquing procedures.

First question: is it safe to drive for a few days with this condition (no off-roading, etc)

Second question: Most also change out their sway bar bushings while they are under there and it seems to make a difference in the ride quality. I've read many different things about the sway bar bushings such as the diameter size of the sway bar itself. I don't have calipers but took an adjustable wrench that I have that has millimeter (mm) markings on it and it read approx. 33 mm. In deciding to either go with MOOG or Energy Suspension brand I can't decide on the sizing. MOOG does not sell a 33 mm bushing but they do have a 34 mm bushing (Part # MOOG-K80082). Should I just go with that and factor that my "adjustable" wrench was probably off 1 mm? As to the Energy Suspensions, I liked those (plus they had a grease fitting) but Advance Auto Parts web site listed many different flavors and sizes (3/4", 7'8", 1", 1 1/8", & 1 1/4") that fit my 99 2WD Explorer XL. 34 mm = approx. 1 1/4" but it seems strange to have so many different flavors for a particular year/make/model vehicle. So, my second question is, should the 34 mm MOOG sway bar bushings work for my "33 mm" sway bars?

(I'd love to hear from someone who put on the Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and how they determined the correct size).

Hopefully JoeDirt, swshawaii, jweb1369, or anyone else can comment on above. I ordered from Amazon (wow, much cheaper than Advance or Autozone, incl. shipping).


jweb1369, Did you ever install new sway bar bushings? Your pics show the sway bar bushings but they don't "look" new. Not anywhere as new as the sway bar links and their bushings.