Help with Fuse 17

[jay3253]

2000 Explorer XLT. My Fuse 17 keeps blowing and I can't find out why. What does this fuse draw for current normally because mine draws 15A all the time? I know it connects my cig lighter and my OBD II port and that it requires a 25A fuse but can't figure out anything else. Please help.

 

[jay3253]

No one can get a multi-meter and check this for me?

 

[budwich]

I guess one small question.... have you been using your lighter for anything lately???? I guess another question is... how did you measure the 15a and IF there is a 25 amp fuse there, it shouldn't blow at 15 amps... so something doesn't sound right.

 

[jay3253]

It shouldn't have 15A continuous unless there is something connected to it and there is nothing connected to it. If I plug in a car charger in it blows. Fuse #17 only has two things connected to it the OBD 2 and the cig lighter. If there is nothing connected to the OBD2 and nothing in the cig lighter there should be no draw. I think I know what it is but not 100% just wanted to know what others get.

I guess regular multi-meters will not measure this I have something at work that will and that is what I used. So all this may be useless I just have to find the problem on my own.

 

[OneLever]

Clean out the cigar lighter throughly. With compressed air if you have to. I have accidently blown the fuse for mine by shorting out the inner and outer contacts of the cigar lighter. If it still blows take that part of the dash off. Should be just two bolts ands it pops off. It's possible one of the cigar lighter wires came loose and is shorting out on the rear of the cylinder.

Here's a link to help you see: Link. You only actually need the first step to remove the center console trim panel.

 

[jay3253]

I was getting voltage on the ground so I changed the ground and I still am blowing fuses. I will try to clean it out tonight to see if that takes care of it.

 

[Blee1099]

You sure its a 15? According to my chart its a 25 amp that powers the cigarette lighter and the OBDII port. I would disconnect the power cable to the cigarette lights, dash & side of console and see if it continues to blow.. If it does then the cable that sends power to the OBDII port is shorting out somewhere.. Viceversa if you do the OBDII cable.

fullsize http://www.blee1099.com/va128380.jpg

 

[budwich]

I was getting voltage on the ground....

What the heck does that mean????? Its is not electrically possible. Can you explain how you are testing this problem? Your best bet is to disconnect the lighter terminal connections and see if your problem is resolved.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Please let me summarize what you have posted: when you don't have anything plugged into the cig lighter, the fuse stays intact and everything operates normally. When you plug in the accessory, the fuse blows.

To start with the most basics before tearing apart wiring, are you be sure it isn't an overdraw by the accessory? You should try a plugging in something else to rule out this simple possibility. A quick easy one would be to push in the cig lighter and see if it works right. Then try something standard low-draw like a radar detector. If they don't pop the fuse, then I would suggest your accessory is pulling more juice than the outlet can safely handle.

 

[jay3253]

Please let me summarize what you have posted: when you don't have anything plugged into the cig lighter, the fuse stays intact and everything operates normally. When you plug in the accessory, the fuse blows.

To start with the most basics before tearing apart wiring, are you be sure it isn't an overdraw by the accessory?

I have tried several different accessory plugs with the same result. Phone charger with no phone attached.

When I measure voltage on both the power side (12V) and ground side (0.6V) I get voltage. So there is a short someplace. I replaced the ground side and I get the same result. I have given up and am putting a new plug in even though I have measured the resistance in the plug and it was as it should be.

 

[jay3253]

You sure its a 15? According to my chart its a 25 amp that powers the cigarette lighter and the OBDII port.

It is drawing 15A continuous that is not the fuse size but what it is drawing just sitting still.

 

[jay3253]

What the heck does that mean?????

It means I have a short someplace that is causing me to have voltage going directly to ground.

 

[budwich]

oooookkkkk.... but I still don't understand how you are getting this result... something is "funny"..... back to basics, when you measure a voltage at a point, you take one test lead and connect it to the point in question and the other test lead goes to a KNOWN ground. IF you do that, and your getting 12v, that's sounds fine. My "concern" is how did you measure your "supposed ground".... where did you connect the test lead and where did you connect to a KNOWN ground? Irregardless, the check for a ground isn't usually a voltage check, its a resistance check. Again, place your test lead at the point in question (the "ground" of the lighter) and the other lead at a KNOWN ground... read 0 ohms (or there abouts depending on the quality of the meter and leads). IF it isn't 0, then you have a ground issue... not really a problem at this point because you have a "bigger problem". Finally, go to the fuse box, pull the fuse in question. Test RESISTANCE from the "outgoing" side of the fuse to a KNOWN ground... it should normally be high or something other than 0. Remove the lighter (disconnect the terminals on the lighter). Test your resistance at the fuse again. In your case, it is likely that you will see no change from the previous measurement. Basically, your problem lies in the lead between the fuse and the "hot" of the lighter OR the one pin on the data connector. No fun trying to trace these wires due to their "route" thru the dash.

Finally, just to be clear, when your lighter plug is just sitting there, your fuse is fine, but when you go to plug in something then the fuse goes cause you have "found" that 15 amps is running thru the circuit all the time and the "little extra" causes problems thereafter, right???? Well, IF that's the case, you have a further problem in your "investigation" cause something drawing 15 amps continuously will kill your battery in about 3-4 hours with no problem.... which you didn't seem to indicate... but is that the case also???

 

[jay3253]

budwich I have a Fluke multimeter paid a good penny for it too. I am a Mechanical Engineer so I should know what I am doing (this doesn't mean I do). This is why I am confused I don't have a battery problem and got 0.6V on my ground side. I changed my ground and now have no power problem.

The 15A is there with nothing plugged in.

 

[OneLever]

I changed my ground and now have no power problem.

So did you fix the problem by running new ground wire? Or do you still have issues.

What are you measure the voltage of the "ground" with respect to? budwich is making the point that a real ground should have no potential difference (voltage) with respect to another ground wire.

What we have here is a failure to communicate.

 

[budwich]

budwich I have a Fluke multimeter paid a good penny for it too. I am a Mechanical Engineer so I should know what I am doing (this doesn't mean I do). This is why I am confused I don't have a battery problem and got 0.6V on my ground side. I changed my ground and now have no power problem.

The 15A is there with nothing plugged in.

I am not questioned your meter but it is good to know that it is "reasonable". We are "discussing" the measurement "technique". Without knowing exactly how you are testing the circuitry, your "observations/measurements" are rather "suspicious". I was trying to layout "exactly" how you can test for your problem but as was pointed out, we are both speaking a "different language".

I am not trying to be "difficult" but we need to know your exact measurement layout. For instance, when you measured 15a (which most meters can't do... 10a max), where were the leads running/connected to? I suspect you didn't really "measure anything" other than how much current your meter can handle... maybe.... be very careful in the current domain otherwise your nice fluke might do some smoking.... Similarly, we need to know how you measured your .6v ground???

 

[jay3253]

I measured voltage like you measure voltage anywhere. I didn't measure the static current as the meter for that is very expensive I had a guy at work do it.

I changed the ground connection and now there is no voltage on the ground. It didn't fix my problem. I am taking it to the stealership on Monday cuz I have no idea where else to turn. I am getting 12V on the power side with no continuity to ground. I am getting continuity on my ground side. I am using the bolts at the door for the ground.

I have some skill in this arena and am not lost when it comes to automotive wiring that is why I came here to see what others have seen in this... I'm lost.

 

[ritesdfred]

fuse 17 repeatedly blows

After hours of looking through wires, I finally thought to check this site and sure enough, others have the same problem. After reading the post by waskly, it dawned on me that because of the broken hinge on the driver side vanity mirror, it has a tendency to fall out of the roof. In checking the wires to the vanity, sure enough the wire was damaged and apparently making contact which was shorting out and blowing fuse 17. An inch of electrical tape and all is working again. Thanks to everyone that posted and to waskly especially.

 

[koda2000]

bump

 

[dejavouxdoux]

Here's a good way to diagnose where your problem is.

Solder two wires to an 1156 bulb. One to the center contact and one to the metal side.

Crimp two narrow connectors to the wires so you can plug them into the fuse panel.

The bulb will replace the fuse and glow instead of blow.

Unplug all the harnesses in the circuit until the bulb changes intensity.

Follow the harness to the termination points and you will find your problem.