I Beg For Your Help!!!

[elkhunter]

To take care of the metal shavings you could put a cow magnet on the drill bit. When your done you can stick it on the fuel line. Those ads for that fancy fuel atom fixer goes for big bucks. The cow magnets are really cheap. You can get them at a local veterinarian (sp) or livestock supply business.

 

[Billy177]

do you have a picture of this by anychance

 

[elkhunter]

They are about 3/8" X 1 1/2". I don't have a picture but they stick them down a cows throat where they stay in the first stomach to catch fencing staples, nails, and other metal things cows swallow when grazing. I know a lot of people were buying them in the late 60's and early 70's when they were $.50 for cows and around $3.00 for cars.

 

[razorbaxfan1]

Big Problem

Okay, so there I was. Today was the last day I was going to drive it, then something weird happened. There was already a slight pinging noise to it, but when I started to go up a hill, the noise magnified by 3x. It's a lot louder now, and I'm afraid the 4 days of driving it on 7 cylinders finally took its toll. I don't know what could have happened. The noise is a loud clinking noise and my engine seems to have considerably less power. This is obviously related to the issue with the plug. Anyone know what happened? Did part of the plug (maybe the remaining ceramic) just blow out or something? Did I blow a head gasket? I was 100 ft from home thankfully when this happened, so I stopped giving it gas and coasted into the driveway. Everything looked and smelled normal under the hood as best as I could tell.

Thanks again. :exp:

 

[razorbaxfan1]

Guess What

That sound I just described above....was due to the remainder of the plug busting out. Remember in an earlier post I said I could still see ceramic and part of the metal core. That's a memory. The sound got louder because the part I WAS going to drill busted out. I guess half the battle is won now. The sheath that contains the threading is now the only thing still stuck in my engine.

Now for using the EZ out. What's the best way to go about this? Shall I use the straight fluted one or a normal one? What if it (God forbid) breaks? I'm sure I have some serious problems then.

Half the battle is over now...

 

[razorbaxfan1]

*FYI*

I sectioned off the weekend as days for labor to get the plug remainder out. I soaked it with WD40 all weekend, spraying enough on the plug to get it soaked really good. I threaded a #5 screw extractor (or easy-out) pretty snug on Saturday afternoon and sprayed the anti-seize liberally. Sunday afternoon I was able to get a wrench on the easy-out and turn the remainder of the plug. Once it wasn't seized, I sprayed more WD40 and rust started pouring out. I got the plug out. I will e-mail pictures of the plug if you're interested. I started the vehicle up for a moment to blow out any debris that may have entered the cylinder. I then put in a new plug (a lubricated plug, that is) and my Ex. runs like a charm now.

Thanks for all of your help, guys. I hope someone else comes on this board with this problem and can fix it by reading this thread. The easy-out works if you're patient with it. I doubt it will come out with a drill...I was able to thread it with a drill, but not extract it. I had to use old-fashioned manpower for that.

Happy holidays, guys...you helped save my Christmas with your advice.

 

[Sir Robin]

I love a happy ending.

I'd be interested in seeing pics. send to joe___g at hotmail.com .
(That's three underscores between the "joe" and "g". Forgive me for not wanting a spam-bot to capture my email address in its correct syntax.)
Or maybe an Elite Explorer can host the pic from his storage and show it right in this thread.

A while back I posted my experience with a broken front lower shock stud on a first gen. Same reason you shared your experience: hoping that at least one person would learn from what happened to me.

That's what this board is all about, and that's why I love it.

Matter of fact, I'm gettin ready to tell about my "check engine" light experience. not an extraordinary story in itself, but I have a couple of tips.

 

[Lee S.]

Ron,

Glad it all worked out for you. You can email me the pics at scon@optonline.net and I try to upload them into this thread.

Lee

 

[jimeeh1]

Experiencing the identical problem. This being on the heels of a heater core replacement....it just keeps getting better. Figured it was the oppurtune time to get access to the plugs with the evap core and housing removed. Just a few questions hoping someone could help me out with. In the previous posting it said to heat the plug. Wouldn't this expand the plug and shouldn't the head be heated instead? What are the heads on a 97 XLT 5.0 made of? I'm currently soaking the plug with kroil (a penetrating oil). Do I not risk the chance of combusting this product if heated? Will I be able to drill the ceramic with a regular drill bit if necesary? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Papa]

I vote for applying heat to what is left of the threads because the heat will cause the broken part to expand and contract enough to really make a difference. I have even seen grade eight bolts broken off below the surface of and engine block removed with heat. Granted in that case the welder used a TIG and built up a weld till he could weld on a nut but the heat took all the temper out of the stud and it backed right out. I have also used an acetylene torch many times on stubborn nuts the effect is really remarkable.