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Ignition key 2010 Ford Explorer - only 1 key when purchased

2010 Exploder

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City, State
DOWNINGTOWN, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Ford Explorer XLT
Just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer. Vehicle came with only 1 key and working remote key fob.
What is the least expensive path to buy a SPARE KEY and to have it programmed? Locksmith or dealer? ("S" stamped on original key).

Buying and programming an additional remote key fob looks easy enough from info on internet. Thanks!
 



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I had just one key when I bought my 2010 Mountaineer. To program more keys you need two working keys. I found the best route was using a mobile locksmith to program a second key for $50. Then I made 2-3 spares myself so I would always have enough to make duplicates if I lost keys or the PATS chips flaked out.

One thing I found about programming the fobs is they all have to be programmed in the same session. If I did one, then did another one seperately the first one would no longer work. This was driving me nuts until I tried programming all of them in the same session and then they all worked.
 






Just bought a 2010 Ford Explorer. Vehicle came with only 1 key and working remote key fob.
What is the least expensive path to buy a SPARE KEY and to have it programmed? Locksmith or dealer? ("S" stamped on original key).

Buying and programming an additional remote key fob looks easy enough from info on internet. Thanks!
Purchase blank ford genuine or aftermarket PATS key from amazon etc.then take a key grooves copy from your working key to the blank key at local locksmith for couple of bucks.

Then install Forscan diagnostic program plus OBD2 cable and reprogramm your key/keys for free.just keep following Forscan inner instructions.

For Forscan or Ford IDS you will have to keep at least one working key for additional keys reprogramming process.

Dealer IDS PATS key reprogram costs a lot..

Key fob might be reprogrammed both from Instrument cluster and Forscan
 






I did the same thing as 94Eddie, local guy $50 total. A couple months later the old owner found the other key and fob.
 






The keys I bought off Ebay are stamped "SA". The seller said they'd work with either 40 bit or 80 bit systems. Anyone have any experience with these type of keys as far as programming them? I haven't tried yet because I have to find someone who will cut the keys for me and that's proving difficult right now because everyone wants to charge extra for programming, which I can do myself.
 






The keys I bought off Ebay are stamped "SA". The seller said they'd work with either 40 bit or 80 bit systems. Anyone have any experience with these type of keys as far as programming them? I haven't tried yet because I have to find someone who will cut the keys for me and that's proving difficult right now because everyone wants to charge extra for programming, which I can do myself.
Look for am independent hardware store. I found that Home Depot, Lowes etc. won't cut them. Also, I recommend making some extra copies. I had two more cut than I needed just for redundancy in case I lost a key or one was damaged.
 






Thanks Eddie. That's the plan. I have two working keys now, one with a broken hoop so I can't put it on a key chain. So I bought two new ones and want to program them both so I'll have a total of 4.

But the SA vs S stamped on the original key was making me wonder if I bought the right key blanks. Any input on that?
 






Thanks Eddie. That's the plan. I have two working keys now, one with a broken hoop so I can't put it on a key chain. So I bought two new ones and want to program them both so I'll have a total of 4.

But the SA vs S stamped on the original key was making me wonder if I bought the right key blanks. Any input on that?
I checked the key I use all the time which is a blank I had cut and programmed myself. It is marked "SA" so you should be good to go with what you bought. I also have keys with no stamp at all that work just as well as the others.
 






Foe future reference. Check eBay for Strattec key blanks.
 






Thanks guys for the info. Much appreciated.
 












The cheapest option and I have done this on a few vehicles with no issues. First get a couple extra keys cut on cheap, plain non chipped keys cut. Remove the steering column cover and remove the key chip receiver from the ignition lock cylinder. Zip tie the chipped key to the receiver, may have to reposition key to receiver to get it to work, using the new non chipped key to start vehicle. When its verified that the receiver is reading the chipped key, just find a spot in the column or dash and securely zip tie the chipped key and receiver.
 






The cheapest option and I have done this on a few vehicles with no issues. First get a couple extra keys cut on cheap, plain non chipped keys cut. Remove the steering column cover and remove the key chip receiver from the ignition lock cylinder. Zip tie the chipped key to the receiver, may have to reposition key to receiver to get it to work, using the new non chipped key to start vehicle. When its verified that the receiver is reading the chipped key, just find a spot in the column or dash and securely zip tie the chipped key and receiver.
It’s also the worst option as you’ve now removed all the anti theft from your car. Pay the $50.
 






The cheapest option and I have done this on a few vehicles with no issues. First get a couple extra keys cut on cheap, plain non chipped keys cut. Remove the steering column cover and remove the key chip receiver from the ignition lock cylinder. Zip tie the chipped key to the receiver, may have to reposition key to receiver to get it to work, using the new non chipped key to start vehicle. When its verified that the receiver is reading the chipped key, just find a spot in the column or dash and securely zip tie the chipped key and receiver.
The problem with this is that any key or tool (square-handled screwdriver and crescent wrench) that can turn the ignition lock cylinder will start the engine..
 






The problem with this is that any key or tool (square-handled screwdriver and crescent wrench) that can turn the ignition lock cylinder will start the engine..
Essentially turning your car into any non-push to start Kia/Hyundai. Mine’s been stolen twice, and I can tell you the joy of walking out of your house to not having a car. Then, on top of it waiting over 2 months for parts to be available to fix it.

I’ll pay the $50. You can also get your key cloned, a little cheaper, although this isn’t the route I’d go.
 


















Just finished programming the two new keys I bought off Ebay. Went well. Had to redo one of the new ones because it didn't take the first time. Redid the 4th key, using all three keys and the 4th took just fine.

Just wanted to update and verify the Ebay ones I purchased worked fine.

Used the Makuloco video on how to program add'l keys.
 






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