Installing 2 amps, 4 speakers, and a stealthbox... what do i need?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Installing 2 amps, 4 speakers, and a stealthbox... what do i need??

98greyxlt

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 11, 2001
Messages
185
Reaction score
0
City, State
Los Angeles, CA GO UCLA!
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT 4x2 SOHC
To those of you that have done many explorer installs...

I'm installing a new head unit, 2 amps, most likely under the rear seats, 4 new speakers in the doors and a JL stealthbox in the back. I need input as to what I'll need and in what length?

This is what I think so far...

2 RCA cables - 12-15 feet
4 guage power wire - 20 feet? (to distribution block)
8 guage power wire - 10 feet? (from dist block to amps)
8 guage ground wire - 6 feet?
2 20amp fuses (in dist block)
distribution block for 2 amps (4ga in, 2 8ga out)
16 guage speaker wire (F&R) 40 feet
12 guage speaker wire (sub) 15 feet
Metra install kit - part number??
or is Scosche better - part number??

Thanks in advance...

Logan
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





those numbers sound good. it's actually more than you will need. but it's better to cut off the excess wire, than not have enough. you will need to fuse the power wire near the battery. get a waterproof 4ga. fuse holder and add up the amp rating for the fuses on the amps. you dont want to get a fuse rated less than what the amps might pull. on the distribution block, do the same thing. you dont want weaker fuses in the block than on the amp. good luck. and make sure you have a good ground, that's the most common problem in car systems.
 






Most improtantly!

The Beer!.... and a bottle of advil...... that should do it.
 






--

yeah a good domestic beer will help with the installation. a six pack should do, but if a friend helps you'll need a 12 pack.
 






You'll need a Torx 15, (I think, do a search) star head to remove the rear seat belt harness so you can get to the back of the rear panel.

Wire for the remote line lead.

Also whatever you will require to connect the 4 guage to the battery post, and one to ground that fat wire as well. And a few zipties won't hurt either!
 






japanese beer is surprisingly good.
 






thanks for all the input. and yeah, my buddy that is helping me already requested that i bring a half case of conona's with me. he lives in Temecula, CA, so the temperature in his garage will probably be 105 degrees next weekend. wonderful!

added to the list:

Torx 15 star head
battery post connector for 4ga power wire
remote line lead wire
assorted crimpons and connectors
U shaped radio removal tool
plastic panel remover (for those stupid plastic plugs)
fuse and fuse holder for 4ga power wire

also, the plan is to dynamat only the 4 doors, rear hatch, and rear quarters. does anyone think it's important that i do the floor and ceiling as well?

oh, and japanese beer is good! asahi or sapporo... the only way to go if you're doing sake bombs.
 






yea japanese beer IS surprisingly good. i would go as far as "great"
 






Hey you wanna add one thing to your list and change another or two. You want your amps to share a commond ground point. You need an additional distribution block for your ground wires. Run the 2 8ga. ground wires to the dist. block and then run a 4ga. ground wire to a grounding point.

Also like someone said you need an in-line fuse holder that will fit your 4ga. wire. This fuse holder should be placed less than 18" away from your battery connection.

Zip ties or wire ties will help the installation look clean and make it easier to replace wires and troubleshoot if things go wrong.

A rubber grommet should also be used on the power wire when you pass through the firewall so that the metal edge doesn't cut through your wire.

Use Dynamat Extreme!! It works much better than the cheaper stuff and is 10 times easier to put on and it stays on better too. The 4 doors, rear hatch, and rear quarters will be fine. Although be aware of mysterious rattles coming from the dash. This happened when I installed my newest system. Now the dash rattles all the time with or with out bass. It must have just rattled something loose. the same thing happens with my driver side door lock. Every 3 weeks I have to re-tighten the screws so that the door doesn't lock automatically when I shut the door.

Take your time in the install and it will be easy. Do it nice and neat and you won't regret it or decide to do it over again.

Steve
 






steve-

i had no idea about running a second distribution block for the ground. i'll look into that. as for the rubber grommet, can't you just pass the wire through the existing rubber grommet that exists or is that not possible?

as for the dynamat, i am going with dynamat extreme. bought 36 sq ft of it on ebay a few weeks back, so i should have plenty.

oh, and yeah, i've got plenty of zip ties left over from the last install i did, which was about 8 years ago!
 






welll it still should be enough with some japanese beer. ALso Fozters isnt really australian for beer. They just say that. But there is Fozters in Australia.
 






I thought the seatbelt was a Torx 50
 






Originally posted by beavis195
I thought the seatbelt was a Torx 50

You're right, I think it is Torx 50, but i saw another post that said that it was Torx 46. Does anyone know for sure?
 






It's 15 or 50. I know on mine it is pretty big. But I need 2 because i have a 2 door and I have to remove the rear window.

Steve
 






beeeer
 






uh, we're past the beer thing....

that was days ago. why not do a post about the topic of the thread, this way the forum doesnt get flooded with lots of useless crap.
 






thanks, leenjen, my sentiments exactly, i just felt bad saying so.

so, i went out and bought a pre-packaged install kit last night. i think the wiring is definitely more than i need, but as they say, it's always better to have more than not enough. here are the contents, courtesy of Crutchfield.

rockford fosgate RP-1732
two 5-meter (16.4-foot) purple Stealth patch cables
17 feet of 4-gauge translucent red power cable
3 feet of 4-gauge translucent ground cable
6 feet of 8-gauge translucent red power cable
6 feet of 8-gauge translucent ground cable
38 feet of 16-gauge speaker wire
platinum-plated fuse holder with 60-amp AGU fuse
platinum-plated fused distribution block with 30-amp fuse
platinum-plated ground distribution block
2 platinum-plated ring terminals
17 feet of 18-gauge tinned silver turn-on lead
16 spade lugs
16 female disconnects
wire ties
protective grommet

got it at best buy. it wasn't cheap, but i had a few gift certificates that i used to knock down my out of pocket expense. the only thing i need now is the Scosche install kit and an extra RCA cable for the sub amp, along with the tools: U shape radio remover, plastic plug remover, and Torx socket (still haven't figured out if it's T46 or T50).
 






that's a really good pre-packed install kit. good choice. i'm sure it must have been expensive, but buying those pieces seperately would be a lot more $$.

good luck with the install.
 






I'm sure for all that at B.B. it cost an arm and a leg. Don't worry about getting great RCA's for your sub. That is unless you wanna have them match the ones in your kit.

Steve
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





crutchfield carries the kit for $159. i saw it online for $129, and at best buy it was $139. since i'm planning to do the install this weekend, had to go with best buy. i did look around to see what everything would have cost separately, and yes, it was much higher than $139. there's one on ebay right now for like $65, but i just couldn't wait for it.
 






Back
Top