Issues With Steering Wheel Controls

[peterk9]

Same part on this site is less expensive; Module - Ford (BB5Z-3F791-K) | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

 

[johnnnyo]

My volume down button on the right side of the steering wheel and the speed decease/set button on the left side both periodically stop working simultaneously. I found that if I use the palm of my hand to bump the top front of the steering wheel while trying to use these functions they work again and continue to work fine (2 days now working fine) until it decides not to. That leads me to believe that there is a bad connection in the steering wheel or maybe a faulty clock spring. The chances of both left and right switches going bad at the same time and both working fine after I bump the steering wheel means the switches are probably fine. I will take the steering wheel apart at some point to inspect it but until now I will give it a bump when needed. Just a post in case someone else experiences this issue. I will update after I dig in further.

 

[JAPeterson]

You have a warranty, why not use it?

I can understand the time that it might involve but what if you break something that you don't plan on breaking?

 

[johnnnyo]

40k miles on the vehicle. Out of warranty for electrical I believe.

 

[jo7hs2]

Sounds like a clock spring. As I'm sure you know, if you know that's a possibility as to what's wrong, that it's not a recommended DIY repair on a modern vehicle for even the above-average mechanically inclined owner. I wouldn't touch it unless you've got experience working on steering columns in airbag equipped vehicles.

Bummer it happened outside of the B2B warranty. :-/

 

[johnnnyo]

I've actually replaced a clock spring on another Ford pickup with an air bag so I feel confident in tackling this one.

 

[Talon747]

I am thinking of replacing the switches and came across this section on the workshop manual about SRS Airbag re powering procedure

Can anyone explain steps 2-5 as in why it is required? as opposed to just reinstalling fuse 37 and reconnecting the battery?

2011 Explorer Workshop Manual
Vehicles With Push-Button Start System

1. Install RCM fuse 37 (10A) to the BCM and install the cover.
2. Remove BJB relay 88 (run/start relay).
3. Install a 30A fused jumper wire in BJB relay 88 (run/start relay) cavities 3 and 5, as shown.
4. WARNING: Make sure no one is in the vehicle and there is nothing blocking or placed in front of any airbag when the battery is connected. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury in the event of an accidental deployment.
   Connect the battery ground cable.
5. Wait at least 30 seconds, then remove the fused jumper wire from the BJB .
6. Install BJB relay 88 (run/start relay) and the BJB cover.
7. Prove out the SRS :
   Turn the ignition from ON to OFF. Wait 10 seconds, then turn the ignition back to ON and monitor the air bag warning indicator with the air bag modules installed. The air bag warning indicator illuminates continuously for approximately 6 seconds and then turns off. If a SRS fault is present, the air bag warning indicator:
   - fails to light.
   - remains lit continuously.
   - flashes.
   The flashing might not occur until approximately 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned from OFF to ON. This is the time required to complete testing of the SRS . If the air bag warning indicator is inoperative and a SRS fault exists, a chime sounds in a pattern of 5 sets of 5 beeps. If this occurs, diagnose and repair the air bag warning indicator and any SRS faults.
8. Clear all CMDTCs from the RCM and OCSM .

 

[peterk9]

My 'guess' is that those steps are required to warn about possible airbag deployment. It seems that a higher current is required for at least 30 seconds and that might burn out the relay if it is left in place. I don't know why a 30A current is required for a short time unless it is to possibly discharge something after the negative battery cable was removed.

Peter

 

[donjohnston]

The audio controls on the steering wheel of my 2013 Explorer started getting flaky a few months back. Sometimes the volume control would work sometimes not. Before I got around to trying contact cleaner it began to show up on the station controls. Then the arrow control began getting weird (up would be interpreted as right. Right would be interpreted as down. Down wouldn't work at all).

After reading some threads here, I'm starting to think that it's the SCCM. By the way, cruise control buttons work fine.

Controlling the audio from the center screen is a no go for me. I don't like trying to find and hit the button on the screen while doing 60MPH on busy roads.

The thread that I read talked about using an OBD reader (I've got one that I use with Torque Lite) and Forescan. But the reviews of Forescan don't sound encouraging.

So here's the question:
1) Has anyone run into this problem with the steering wheel controls and how did you resolve it?
2) If you had to replace the SCCM, how difficult was that. I've looked and can't find any guides or videos on replacing it.
3) If you went the dealer fix route, how much did that cost?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Billinparker]

My 2011 Limited with 55k miles is giving me intermittent problems with the steering wheel controls.

The directional pad on the left side responds erratically, such as moving the selection on the display down, when I am pushing over to the right.

When I receive a low fuel warning that I have 50 miles left, I can't click "Ok" on the warning message. It just doesnt go away. If I wait until I get to the 25 miles left warning, I can click Ok and dismiss the message.

The volume up button worked occasionally today, but the volume down button did not work at all.

The cruise control buttons are fine.

Anyone else experience this yet?

Warranty just expired, figures.

Here it is 6 years later, (from the earliest post) my 2015 explorer, ~50k and I’m getting the same errors, erratic behavior of the up/down buttons, but my cruise has just gone out. How can this still be going on?

 

[peterk9]

I'm not sure what exactly you mean by "How can this still be going on?". The OP had issues with a 2016 and you have a 2015. I could understand the question if you had a 2018 or 2019 and the issue was still ongoing but you have an Explorer 1 year older than the original poster. The fact that it took 6 years to actually become an issue shouldn't come as a surprise. Some features are more prone to problems than others as time goes on.

Peter

 

[toney44]

Hello my name is Anthony from Maryland just wondering if someone can help me out with this problem I checked fuses already cruse control works and volume works but the sync button don't it only mute the music.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Anthony.
I've merged your thread with an existing one on much the same issue.

Peter

 

[Rashaunny]

@Exploder82. Please update us
After the Ford rep contacted you kinda went dark. Same issues here on a 2017 PIU

 

[Talon747]

@Exploder82. Please update us
After the Ford rep contacted you kinda went dark. Same issues here on a 2017 PIU

I did a guide on how to replace the clock sping

How to: - Steering Controls not working - Fix

I had issues with steering controls not working or intermittently working on both sides, , Turn out the issue was with the clock spring, here are the steps I took to replace it Steps to de-arm the airbags 1.Make sure the explorer is parted straight and the wheel are in straight line. 2.Turn...

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