Lifting my explorer

[2stroke]

This is my first post, but this site has been very helpful so far. I have a mostly stock 1994 ford explorer 4x4 that I am basically stuck with right now. I'm just saying right now I dont think ford or chevy is better than one another, however I do want a chevy 1500 pickup, for the simple reason I like how they look and how they are set up. I have been towing with my explorer for a few years now, my dad is the original owner, and the thing is a tank. I think the towing limit for the auto tranny is somewhere around 5000 pounds, but I have gone way over that a few times, and it did fine. I'm on the original tranny at 215,000 miles, and I do not baby it. Infact most of it is original, motor, rims, even the alternator. The thing I had to learn with this truck, is that you have to live with it until its actually broke. Some vehicles even a squeak can quickly turn into being stuck on the road. An explorer will work, and even when something breaks, it will get you home. It never works perfect, but it ALWAYS works. The only problem with it has been it is on its 4th set of wheel bearings (however I drive in water a lot because of shallow boat launches), but I could never understand why the fronts go bad. I've never had one fly apart, but they growl until you cant hear anything. I must buy china crap bearings. The only mods I have done are 1 the rear window wiper is gone. It serves no purpose, and holds the window shut when your trying to open it. I simply poped it off the gear thing, and painted it black. The next is I cut metal pieces to fit the backs of the back seats and used 3/4" screws to attach them. After taking out the carpet, I bedlined the whole thing. I now have a regular cab, short box explorer. The last thing I did was tear the running boards off because they rusted too bad to hold anyone. I then used 12" wide aluminum roll sheeting (the thin stuff in the home improvement area) and used snips to cut it under the door and used 1/2" self tappers to attach it. I then bed lined it for looks.
I just moved to college, and cannot afford a new truck. However I was wondering if there was a reasonable way to lift it for cheap. Its at stock height right now, and I have 235/75/15 tires that are good, and I could probably get $400 for, so bigger tires wont be much more if I buy used. I am in no hurry, I drive my car around mostly, but when the football season ends I will need it to go fishing. The #1 concern is cost, less than $100 if possible. I can weld, cut, and rig up something if I have to. Doing that will be easier than getting the old stuff apart, the thing is rusted bad, even by MN standards.
I'm not certain a lift is a good Idea though. The main use of it is towing, I don't tow much more than the occasional 5000 pounds anymore (mostly a 1500 pound boat). The lift is mostly for looks by the way, I don't off road, and the only time I got stuck was on a frozen lake in 2' of snow when a lift wouldn't have helped. Actually all I needed was tire chains. The only advantage I can think of is I can use drop hitches. The hitch I got off craigslist hangs down 3" from the bumper, meaning even a 2" drop hitch puts most trailer tongue's too low. I have been using a 3" drop hitch upsides down.
I have never lifted anything before, but I am very mechanically inclined. I have done some research and I'm thinking either really small, like a 2" lift and 31" tires (yes I know they fit stock, I used to have them on), or really big like 6" with a SOA. I really like the Idea of the SOA and It is cheap, but nobody ever says how they lifted the front. I have seen it gives 5"-6". I tow alot, but mine is not sagging bad, so it will probably be closer to 6". It is sagging a little, and I like the back higher than the front, so a 5" lift i front should be perfect. what would it take to lift the front 5", and how hard is it to do on rusted parts? That should be enough questions for now.

edit: I am not looking into body lifts, as they would do more harm than good. For the 2" lift I was thinking longer shackles, and 2" spacers over the front coils.

Here's my car they day I towed it home

 

[Iron Weasel]

I'll take a crack at this one.....

Let's talk about SOA and how to lift the front - suffice to say that the actual SOA is cheap....but lifting the front is anything but.

I'm not going to go into detail about how to do a SOA it or parts required since you can find that from numerous sources. Generally, when you do a SOA on the rear, you have to use radius arm drop brackets or aftermarket radius arms along with new coil springs that give appropriate lift on the front end to match the rear. The reason you need drop brackets or longer aftermarket radius arms is to maintain suspension and steering geometry in the front because of the way the TTB (Twin Traction Beam) is set up. James Duff makes a 6" Bronco II / Ranger / Explorer kit that uses extended radius arms with heim joints at the end for this very purpose. However, the entire kit runs just shy of $2000.
Unfortunately, the TTB isn't very "lift" friendly and that's a big reason why a lot of people who do big lifts will swap out the TTB stuff for a traditional solid axle which you'll usually see abbreviated as "SAS" - Solid Axle Swap. Of course, there are also other miscellaneous parts you'll need with that big of a lift.....extended brake lines, new shocks, drop pitman arm, etc.

You can get away with a 2" lift fairly cheap. When I did mine, I spent around $300 for parts (I made my own spacers) and a trip to the alignment shop.

 

[2stroke]

Thanks, I was afraid of that. While a SOA might be cool, its not what I am looking for. I am seriously considering a 2" lift because from what I could find searching breaklines, driveshaft, etc. should still all fit fine. I am getting to the point where I need new shackles, the passenger side almost rusted through. I don't want to swap axles, I'm actually a fan of the Dana 35. It tough as nails, I don't care what people say, and the limited slip is a perfect compromise of turning and traction. It looks like I can make shackles with 2 pieces of thick steel for the outside, and a square tube welded to hold them together. Is there any rule on how much longer my shackle should be to give 2" of lift? And the front seems just as easy, a bunch of washers the correct size, and stack them 1 1/2" high for 1 1/2" of lift.

 

[Iron Weasel]

I did a small lift like you're thinking about 2 years ago.....

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290039&highlight=weezlift

Check it out - should give you some ideas of how to accomplish what you're looking to do.

 

[malohnes]

2stroke: Look into the dimensions of Warrior Shackles, IIRC number 153's. Since you have skills and tools, that otta get you some useful lift that won't hurt your ride.

 

[2stroke]

For the price I might just buy shackles off ebay. What really concerns me, is I have done plenty of searching, and I can't find one person that made their own shackles from scratch. This makes me think there is more to it than it looks. One thing is I might not have the tools to do it. It seems like a recipricating saw with the right blade, or even an angle grinder should cut some of those bigger peices of metal, but I have never done it. Also I only have an arc welder, which I don't see why it wont work, but again, I have never done anything like this. I generally am happy with stock parts, and I may just leave it that way. The front seems surprisingly simple, *IF* I am able to get the coil spring off the bolt. Then from what I can find it takes 3 washers to fit around that nut, and 3 more with a smaller hole to just fit the bolt, then the rubber thing, and assuming there is enough threads to bolt to, just bolt the spring back on and it should be 1 1/2" of lift (obviously measuring the washer pack first). The more I look into this, the more I am thinking it is far too late for my truck. It has literally welded itself together with rust, which might be why its so tough.:scratch:

About the ride, I dont care even a little bit. I have done some mods that may have been why its parts last so long. The first I'm not sure if its factory or my dad put on, but it has a decent size tranny cooler. I took the stock tranny mount (even though it has never broke yet) and put a couple peices of metal between the part that bolts to the tranny and the part thats supposed to flex and welded it solid, so it drives like a tank, and vibrates like one too, but it will never break. I run full synthectic fluids in everything, and I credit just that alone to most of why my motors (not just this one) never fail. There's some more, but the morale is its a towing vehicle, I have a car for driving.

 

[Brian1]

What really concerns me, is I have done plenty of searching, and I can't find one person that made their own shackles from scratch. This makes me think there is more to it than it looks.

I have. They are an easy and straightforward project if you have the right tools.

 

[2stroke]

I scrap metal (which is what I used to tow, but have since given the job to my dads newer truck) so I come across pleny of metal. I have some peices laying around that I think should work good. What is the the thinest and thickest "side plates" you would use. I have plenty of hand tools (give me enough time, and Ill cut it), but will a reciprocating saw or angle grinder work? I don't have anything specifically for cutting metal like a plasma cutter or anything. I generally don't give a S#!t what my welds look like, I make them strong as can be. It doesn't look like a hard weld either, cut the square tube straight, and maybe a c-clamp to hold it while I run a nice thick bead all the way around.

 

[Brian1]

1/4" to 3/8" thick is what I would use. Mine are 3/8". Also 2" wide x however long you want to make them. Angle grinder with cut off wheel would work just fine to cut them.

 

[2stroke]

Its just not going to happen. There is no way in hell that bolt is ever coming free from that axle, ever. Rear shackles wouldn't, be the end of the word, but I remember thinking that about shocks, and that took me almost a whole day of cutting, running to the store, and swearing. I welded a brace over the bad shackle, and that's how its staying forever. BTW If you guys need to know how to put in front shocks, and the stupid stud thing is striped or broken, I'm your guy.

 

[jprentice94]

Shackles in the rear i made mine for free 2 inches for free or 30 bucks at autozone and spacers off a full size bronco right under the coils 2 inches. Pick those up at pick n pull for probably ten bucks each but you might have to get longer bottom bolts which could be a painbut stock shock will forsure limit you but when u go get the spacers take time and find longer shock that what i did for 5 bucks each p.s. i used the rule that each inch of shackle is 1/2 inch lift and i used 1/2 inch metal they are very beefy

 

[Kiliona]

Some vehicles even a squeak can quickly turn into being stuck on the road. An explorer will work, and even when something breaks, it will get you home. It never works perfect, but it ALWAYS works.

Wow that pretty much summed up my ENTIRE explorer owning experience (on my second), are you a car guru?



I didn't read over your replies so sorry if this has been said but coil spacers (cheap) or coils (better but slightly more expensive) on the front. On mine i have skyjacker 2 inch coils and i LOVE them, fixed my saggy ride AND lifted it. Back, add a leaf (expensive but better) or warrior shackles (cheap) or even an f150 leaf pack swap (in between option), i believe turdle made a good writeup on that. For me personally if i'm going to lift it i want to actually upgrade the suspension not just give myself more clearence so i went with AAL and coils (skyjacker kit for 250) and I'm very happy. It handles BETTER than before and performs offroad way better as well.

Little thought of fact, suspension is also there to hold your tire down, not just your vehicle up. Stiffer/better/newer suspension gives you more traction by preventing wheel hop among other things. before my lift on loose surfaces on decent grades (uphill) if i hit the gas the wheels would spin and my whole car would violently shake and i'd go nowhere. After the lift my car wont shake and i have more traction. Combined with my 31" BFG AT KO's i haven't found a surface yet i can't grip on. Guess that just means i need to push it harder

 

[jprentice94]

Stiffer is not particualarly better most people would rather have flex then a ride thats to stiff also stiffness can also cause problems so i would opt for shackles as they will lift you it will be nearly the same stiffnes as stock and it will flex better then an add a leaf ans possibly better then newleafs because you have to break them in and then you could run into sagging issues easier the front is really stiff on stock ttb coils not very good for obsticals were you need flex thats why a lot of people use eb coils or jeep coils

 

[Kiliona]

Stiffer is not particualarly better most people would rather have flex then a ride thats to stiff also stiffness can also cause problems so i would opt for shackles as they will lift you it will be nearly the same stiffnes as stock and it will flex better then an add a leaf ans possibly better then newleafs because you have to break them in and then you could run into sagging issues easier the front is really stiff on stock ttb coils not very good for obsticals were you need flex thats why a lot of people use eb coils or jeep coils

"nearly the same stiffness as stock"

I don't know about you, but my 21 year old rigs springs were completely destroyed, that's another reason I went with springs not spacers (or shackles) is because my truck moved like a basketball everytime i hit a bump and i needed new springs anyways.

the travel of new shackles is a big plus though.

Also, I meant stiffen up saggy way over-used suspension, not stiffen up the stock suspension, any stiffer than stock would probably be a bad idea like you were saying less travel and harsher ride.

It really just depends on budget and what the original poster is looking for tbh.

btw do a search, there are some GREAT threads about lifts on first gens and they are FULL of information.

 

[jprentice94]

Ya just miss understood my leafs are still alright kinda i have sag in mine but shackles helped me now mine are starting to bend the other way as in im soa now

 

[Kiliona]

Ya just miss understood my leafs are still alright kinda i have sag in mine but shackles helped me now mine are starting to bend the other way as in im soa now

If your ride has lots of lift in it's future, SOA is the way to go!!

For OP, SOA is spring over axle, on our rigs the spring sits under the axle which limits flex and removes lift blocks as an option, spring over axle can be done cheaply and gives... i'm not sure 4-6 inches of lift in the back? If i wanted to go that high I'd save the money by doing the cheap SOA then get monster springs for the front to level it out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46236

quick search found this, 6 inches for 32 dollars