Looking to change out my spark plugs 4.0 ohv | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Looking to change out my spark plugs 4.0 ohv

poker4me007

Elite Explorer
Joined
June 21, 2013
Messages
325
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69
City, State
Western Ma.
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Sport 4wd 4.0 ohv 5spd
I have the stock Motorcraft sp500,s in there now. There kinda old and I want to replace them.
Should I stay with the stock plugs or are you guys finding something out there that's better.
Looking for some first hand experience with other plugs.
There's sooooo many other brands to pick from.
Thanks.
 



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I got the Denso finewire twin tip Iridium plugs because I had coupons to almost cover them. Do they make a massive difference over the motorcraft? No. Maybe slightly better idle, gas mileage still low. Lucky to break 15 in mixed driving. May have a bit more power, but you could debate that.

Being a waste spark setup having dual Iridium could be a good idea. Probably the last plugs you will ever install on the truck. Toyota uses the same plugs and they have 120K intervals.
 






I just installed Autolite XP103 to replace the Boch Platinum that was installed in 2006 20k mile ago. The reason being is that the other day I started it up to go to Lowes to get mulch, and five seconds after starting and turning the A/C on it developed a dead miss on the #2 cyl, code (PO3052). I pulled the plug out and it looked good, I blew it off with compressed air, reinstalled, and swapped the #2 wire from the #1 cylinder and the miss was gone. SOoo, I installed new plug wires (Motorcraft), and the new plugs (XP103) and it starts faster, and run better then before. 1997 4.0l OHV,
I dont know the reason for the miss, But in the last ten tears the truck has only been driven short distances with little time running at operating temperature, that may have shortened the life of the plugs and wires.
 






I just installed Autolite XP103 to replace the Boch Platinum that was installed in 2006 20k mile ago. The reason being is that the other day I started it up to go to Lowes to get mulch, and five seconds after starting and turning the A/C on it developed a dead miss on the #2 cyl, code (PO3052). I pulled the plug out and it looked good, I blew it off with compressed air, reinstalled, and swapped the #2 wire from the #1 cylinder and the miss was gone. SOoo, I installed new plug wires (Motorcraft), and the new plugs (XP103) and it starts faster, and run better then before. 1997 4.0l OHV,
I dont know the reason for the miss, But in the last ten tears the truck has only been driven short distances with little time running at operating temperature, that may have shortened the life of the plugs and wires.
Went with the same plugs in mine, same year/engine as yours and the OP's. The Autolite Iridiums are great plugs for sure. Get them at Rock Auto with the rebate, they're then less than a buck a piece (before shipping). I went with AC Delco Professional for wires, good fit and even gave an extra inch or so in length over stock Motorcraft so they were a little easier to work around.
 






Sparkplugs are all relatively cheap so it's definitely worth getting the fancier or premium versions. (Especially considering what a pain the sparkplugs on the passenger side are to get to.)

I put in new sparkplugs and spark plug wires a year ago and just went and got them at Autozone. I'm usually a fan of German engineered Bosch stuff, but I remember reading a thread in this forum where someone mentioned the Bosch ones somehow weren't great.
So I just went and got the fancier version of the other brand they had in stock.
I don't really remember, but it might have been Denso with Iridium or platinum or superlatrinum or some other fancy StarTrek metal.

Sparkplugs aren't really rocket science anymore these days and there are a bunch of good ones on the market. And they really won't magically turn your Explorer into a modern 800hp - 400mpg plug in hybrid either.

While you're at it, check your spark plug wires and the distributor, if they're old!
Bad old wiring or distributor can really make a major difference!
 






2000 Explorer 4-Door 2WD. 130,000 miles, original plugs. What problems might I face when I change the spark plugs? Any chance they'll be extremely hard to back out? Any chance they'll break while being removed? What suggestions do you have for making the project successful? Thanks.
 






2000 Explorer 4-Door 2WD. 130,000 miles, original plugs. What problems might I face when I change the spark plugs? Any chance they'll be extremely hard to back out? Any chance they'll break while being removed? What suggestions do you have for making the project successful? Thanks.
Use a good 5/8 spark plug socket with the rubber grommet on the inside, this will help prevent breaking the porcelain and it also holds the plug to keep it from falling out of the socket. Before you remove the old plugs, blow compressed air around the plug area to remove loose debris so it doesn't fall in when the plugs are removed. My vehicle is a 97' w/4.0l OHV, and the position of EGR tube is directly in front of the #6 spark plug (thank you FORD) making it very difficult for my big hands to remove that plug, I dont know if the 2000 is the same way, so something to look out for. Also, you will want something sturdy to stand on to help make it easier to reach down inside the engine compartment. Being an iron headed engine you should not have that hard of a time breaking them loose from the threads, and be sure to use a little anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. Lastly, do them one at a time so as not the get the plug wires mixed up. Hope this helps!
 






My 1995 van had old Motorcraft plugs. I wouldn't be surprised if they were the original plugs. I have the van for 11 years. I put Bosch platinum plugs into it. It was misfiring with a lot of hesitation, rough idle, and sluggish performance. I put Autolite iridium plugs into it, and it made a big difference. My old plugs were worn down with a large spark gap, and couldn't start whenever it rained. The Autolite plugs weren't like this. It was able to start during a very heavy rain after not being driven for 3 days. I have a 3.0L engine with one coil, a cap & rotor.
 






Use a good 5/8 spark plug socket with the rubber grommet on the inside, this will help prevent breaking the porcelain and it also holds the plug to keep it from falling out of the socket. Before you remove the old plugs, blow compressed air around the plug area to remove loose debris so it doesn't fall in when the plugs are removed. My vehicle is a 97' w/4.0l OHV, and the position of EGR tube is directly in front of the #6 spark plug (thank you FORD) making it very difficult for my big hands to remove that plug, I dont know if the 2000 is the same way, so something to look out for. Also, you will want something sturdy to stand on to help make it easier to reach down inside the engine compartment. Being an iron headed engine you should not have that hard of a time breaking them loose from the threads, and be sure to use a little anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. Lastly, do them one at a time so as not the get the plug wires mixed up. Hope this helps!

I completely agree with this post. All I could add is that if your sparkplugs are very old and rusty on the outside like mine were, you might want to use liquid penetrant oil like Liquid Wrench or Pblaster for example. Just spray it on the sparkplugs, then and let the engine run warm and cool down again. And feel free to repeat that a couple of times in the days before you take the plugs out. That should help getting them out easier and reduce the risk of breaking a rusted-on sparkplug when taking it out.

And in case you don't know already, the spark plugs on the passenger side are a real pain to get to. the easiest way is to jack the car up, remove the tire and get access through the wheel well as shown here:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jduym1Sog5E .
 






I just use a plug socket + a 1.5" extension and a 3/8" ratchet on the one problem plug location on the 4.0 OHV (the passenger-side one by the firewall/a/c bottle). This gives you the 1/4-1/2" of clearance you need to be able to loosen the plug. Then you remove the ratchet and pull the plug with just the extension/socket.

Maybe other people's hands/arms are too big to make it work, but it works every time for me...all six plugs can be changed in less than half an hour. You have to be able to get your whole forearm into the engine bay, threading it underneath the upper coolant hose.
 






I'mma just chime in with the same thing about Bosch plugs, I put a set in my 2000 when I bought it instead of Autolites, and to be honest, it ran poor, it didn't miss but it just didn't do good either, I put Autolites in and boom, problem solved. I've also had rougher luck with NGK plugs in a 2001 SOHC, they caused a lumpy motor.
 






Thanks guys, all good suggestions.
I think I'll give the xp103 autolites a try, with the rebate can't beat the price.
 






I think they are accessible thru the fender wells with the rubber flap removed.
 






One thing I'll add to the above removal tips is a 3/8" u-joint ratchet extension definitely comes in handy where you can't get directly onto the plug, just be careful you're not applying pressure to the side too much and snap the ceramic part off. Removing the plug wire boots were a real pain on mine, longest part of my job, had to get in there with a small razor box cutter to slice the side of the boot, then they come off real easily. Obviously not an option if you're not also replacing the wires.
 












I'm not a believer in expensive spark plugs. Unless the application calls for them. Standard autolite double platinum's are what I use.
Passenger I go through the wheel well.
You want easy? I did the plugs in a 2.2 saturn(GM) engine this weekend. 4 plugs, 4 boots, the coil pack & the control module..I timed it...8.52 minutes start to finish.
 






This is one of the six Bosch Platinum R3 590 plugs I pull out of my 97 4.0 OHV, it was installed 12 years and 20k miles ago, take a close look at the center electrode, it has eroded below the porcelain, all six plugs where exactly the same condition, All six where replaced with the Autolite XP 103 and now it runs like a vehicle that just got a tune up.

33750297_1026199684202878_5363962292079689728_o.jpg
 






I put Bosch double platinums in my 5.0. Didn’t last long at all before misfiring. Replaced with factory Motorcraft plugs, and still running well after 50k.
 






@Mbrooks420 Yeah I got like 10K into a set and then on uphill downshifts I started noticing a clear lack of power, I run Autolites now despite having one come in this same truck rusted off ROUND, live and learn I suppose.
 



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I’ve always had good luck getting plugs out. I always use antisieze, and don’t torque them down hardly at all. If a plug comes out, it doesn’t go back in.
 






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