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M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy:D:D so let the fun begin.
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

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RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)
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VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)
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Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
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and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY
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The truck absolutely will not start with the paperclip in to read codes..

Idk if im doing something wrong or what..i put the clip in and try to start it..doesnt sound difficult. .am i missing something? ?
 



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So definitely think its in the tune..i have set idle with the iac unplugged,then adjusted tps to new tb blade position at idle,shecked maf,check O2s,checked temp sensor, checked crank sensor,changed plugs. ..

All look good but second i plug the IAC in it jumps to about 2000 then settles down to about 1300,with it unplugged and warm, i have idle set to 650...at idle or cruise(if you can get it to cruise without it wanting to stall from accelerating) it runs a perfect AF of 14-15...you sneezle on the throttle and it jumps to 11,any press on gas it jumps rich...

Soooo im lost and really hope its in the tune...

Also got my custom shift knob in that I've been waiting 8 weeks for..its pretty slick..
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Got my fan mounted and shift knob on..both turned out pretty good..fan actually pulls alot of air also,should definitely help keep things cool..

guess im done till the dyno Thursday. .my birthday is 11/11 so im praying my issues are in the tune and this thing runs right afterwards for my birthday

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Nice work!
I really like that shifter handle, good choice. I bet you can not wait to hit that button!
 






Excellent, I like that big heat exchanger, the fan etc, and those seats.

Where did the seats come from, they look like what I got from Summit a long time back, for my truck. Do you like their size to fit the truck, comfortable etc?
 






Excellent, I like that big heat exchanger, the fan etc, and those seats.

Where did the seats come from, they look like what I got from Summit a long time back, for my truck. Do you like their size to fit the truck, comfortable etc?
It is pretty big,the core is 12x12x2..it worked pretty well before i turned the boost up but definitely was getting heat soaked without the fan at new boost levels. .

The seats are cheap summit ones..they are alright, im 6'1" 250 lbs so they get uncomfortable but they keep my fat ass in place though. .lol
 






Thanks, I like these seats as I've sat in them on the floor a few times. I was thinking of having them recovered if I like how they fit in the truck.

I'm glad you like that heat exchanger, and it helps me some to know what size is needed. I'm aiming for boost in the low teens, so something not a lot bigger than that should get me close. I hope there is room behind the bumper that will get enough air to do the job, maybe a big long unit will do.
 






Thanks, I like these seats as I've sat in them on the floor a few times. I was thinking of having them recovered if I like how they fit in the truck.

I'm glad you like that heat exchanger, and it helps me some to know what size is needed. I'm aiming for boost in the low teens, so something not a lot bigger than that should get me close. I hope there is room behind the bumper that will get enough air to do the job, maybe a big long unit will do.
I didnt want to go to a long one as you have to run a remote fill for it..this one should equal the same size as a long one also,typically a long one is 2'longx4"widex2"thick..if you divide mine into 4" wide pieces you would get 3'longx4"widex2"thick plus the tanks are larger and has a fill..thats why i went with this one and it fit perfectly between the core supports..
 






Its not in the tune and doesn't appear to be any sensors. .guessing the ECM so ordered a new one...getting really frustrated now..im bleeding money and its gota stop..its getting outa controll..if this doesnt fix it, its gonna have to sit and the focus is gonna have to change to the aviator. .i cant keep dropping HUNDREDS every week..im another $1500 into this build since ive started putting it back together and thats no exaggeration...hell probably more.

Im almost to the point of parting it out..ITS GOTA STOP
 






I absolutely feel your pain.

This endless bleeding makes a monthly car payment look pretty inexpensive.
I've been on the couch in fetal position (No thumb sucking, but close) many times feeling just like you are right now.

Can you maybe point one of those temperature guns on each header exhaust port at the head and see if one exhaust port exit isn't as hot as it should be?

You were soooo close.
 






I absolutely feel your pain.

This endless bleeding makes a monthly car payment look pretty inexpensive.
I've been on the couch in fetal position many times (No thumb sucking, but close) feeling just like you are right now.
You know i felt your pain when you was going through it also because i had before also..the problem is now I've pushed the envelope and thought i was past the little bs problems but some reasons there is more now than ever..

I took this on as a single guy and over a bet..now im struggling to pay bills and feed my family. .I've been having to use Uber (taxi) for many weeks/months and my girl has been having to pick up both boys..the stress on me and my family has been too much lately. .something has to give
 






Any way you can monitor fuel pressure from inside the cabin to see what happens when the mixture goes so rich?
This issue seemed to start when you changed fuel pumps. etc.

Sorry for throwing crap out there, but something might just give you an idea of something to try.
 






Any way you can monitor fuel pressure from inside the cabin to see what happens when the mixture goes so rich?
This issue seemed to start when you changed fuel pumps. etc.

Sorry for throwing crap out there, but something might just give you an idea of something to try.
There is nore going on,it started when i cleaned the maf and changed the tps..think the ecm just crapped out..

Its idling high and running rich when hitting gas..we were messing with it today changing tunes and all of a sudden the idle was good and everything was good...we went to add fuel and did a pull,it was looking good but all of a sudden the idle jumped high and went rich..we changed it back and still rich..

It has something to do with whenever it idles high we can't tune it..only when it idles good does it accept tunes...but problem it doesnt idle good 99%time..something is shorting out..pretty sure something in the ecm is loose
 






Your getting there, for sure. You have it narrowed down to the ecm, connector, or wiring.
I only hope you can hang in there. Mentally and financially.

Were you able to test the sensors at the ecm connector while plugged in and truck idling high? If not, lets hope the new ecm just works.

I cant think of any plausible reason the ecm wouldn't accept tunes if it has power and ground, other than something shorting out (either 12v being shorted to ground, or signal voltage on a pin shorting to 12v that should never reach 12v.

Hang in there JD.
 






Yes, take it easy and get away from it for a while, just a break to get back to calm/even etc. I'm a VOL and we're living with bad football and everyone wants to lynch the coaches.
 






when don said short, this made me think of something. is it possible you might have pinched a few wires, or melted some wires on the exhaust? there was a problem in some ranger years before you (i had a 91 that this happen to) that the harness was too close to the drivers side harness if i remember correctly that melted a couple of wires, and shorted out the computer. when that one happen it shorted the fuel pump wires and the pump wouldn't turn on. completely different problem that your having, but it might be something to look at.
 






You will get this figured out and straightened out, just hang in there.
 






Anyone know how to test the MAF??its a 90mm from a lightning if that matters..its getting power but what should the other wires test??

I didnt have issues till i changed the tps,air filter and cleaned my maf..just want to eliminate it before i crack open the new ecm to put my chip in it..once i do that i cant return it..its sealed with tape and will be here monday
 






PS....
ITS MY BIRTHDAY! !!!
 



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