Need Help Choosing a Battery - Optima or Interstate?

[tuggey]

I need help on deciding what battery to get.
I have the choice between a year or two old Used Red Top Optima(1000 cranking amps) or
A Interstate Battery Brand new thats only recommended Cranking amps which i got no idea is i think around 650-700.

I can get the used optima for $70 or the brand new Interstate for $95
but i know that optima's new are $170+
now the reason im asking is because im going to be powering a Infinity Acoustic 10 System with 3 10's and a 750 watt amp.
and
My explorer is a stick and im new to stick so im probably going to stal and i dont want a battery where i stal twice and its dead. which ive seen in friends vehicles.....

Let me Know your input.....

 

[celly]

I wouldn't buy a used Optima. Reason being is I've had two of them and the first one crapped out fairly soon afterwards. They're not as reliable as I thought they'd be when I got one. The warranty replacement worked out better (still have it), but I've got a Yellow Top under my hood.

Given your choices, I'd go new. At least you know where it's been.

 

[tuggey]

I wouldn't buy a used Optima. Reason being is I've had two of them and the first one crapped out fairly soon afterwards. They're not as reliable as I thought they'd be when I got one. The warranty replacement worked out better (still have it), but I've got a Yellow Top under my hood.

Given your choices, I'd go new. At least you know where it's been.

Ok after looking on craigslist i found a guy selling new red tops for 100 each, they still have plastic around them....

and ofcourse before i purchase any used battery if i do id get it tested....

need more input on this though before i decide

 

[reapereviltwin]

given your choices, i'd go new. At least you know where it's been.

x2

 

[Maniak]

While I'm not sold on the Optima Brand, I am sold on Gell cell batteries (AGM actually). Since switching to AGM batteries the battery terminals have stayed clean. There is no (if any) out gassing with the AGM batteries and they don't leak when you go wheeling with them and put them in odd/extreme angles.

~Mark

 

[tuggey]

x2

If i get a couple more on new then thats what ill probably do,
but like i said will the interstate battery power my system no problem?

 

[celly]

Ok after looking on craigslist i found a guy selling new red tops for 100 each, they still have plastic around them....

and ofcourse before i purchase any used battery if i do id get it tested....

need more input on this though before i decide

I'd buy the $100, brand new one then. Of course you won't have a warranty. It was that warranty that saved my bacon.

Testing or no testing, I just wouldn't buy used (any brand). I had my Red Top "tested" and they claimed nothing was wrong. Then it died again one more time and they gave me a new battery anyhow.

will the interstate battery power my system no problem?

Just about ANY battery will power your system. Consider the "Big Three" wiring upgrade or an upgraded alternator over a fancy battery. They're more critical to a good system than a chi chi battery.

 

[damarble]

My blue top Optima has never disappointed. Check around and local battery shops, I have one that sells Optima "blems" for $85 with warranty.

 

[OptimaJim]

Hello, I noticed your conversation and wanted to offer some assistance. tuggey, if you are planning on running a significant aftermarket audio system (and it sounds like you are), you should definitely be considering a battery that is designed to be deep-cycled, like our YellowTops. An appropriately-sized RedTop can offer plenty of cranking amps for many applications, but when it comes to car audio applications, reserve capacity should be given more consideration than cranking amps, provided OEM specs for both are met or exceeded.

You should also check the warranty procedure on any battery you are considering, before you make your purchase. All new YellowTops and RedTops come with three-year free replacement warranties. If something does go wrong with your battery, you will need to get it serviced through the retailer who sold it to you and Craigslist sellers may not always be so easy to find.

celly gives excellent advice about doing “The Big 3” upgrade, but since Maniak mentioned the “g” word, I should clarify that Optima batteries are not “gel” batteries, they are SpiralCell AGM lead-acid batteries. Chargers with “gel” or “gel/AGM” settings will not properly-charge an Optima battery and could damage it over time. If anyone has any questions about our batteries, I’ll do my best to answer them.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.

 

[hworksinc]

If you're thinking about running the amp for any amount of time with the engine off, you should consider a 2 battery system. Here's why:

Starting batteries (like the Red-top) are designed to provide very high amperage output (cranking amps). However, this comes at the cost of total capacity - the electrode design is different and this results in a battery with a lower reserve capacity (and less run time for your fancy audio system).

Storage batteries (like the yellow-top) are designed to have a very high capacity (so they can run your sound system longer). This comes at the cost of having a lower maximum amperage output, making them less ideal for starting a vehicle.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the Optima batteries - the Spiral thing is gimmicky and doesn't make the best use of possible battery volume (sorry OptimaJim). I've had good luck with Lifeline AGM batteries - I installed them for a friend in a Chevy Tahoe with separate starting battery and storage battery for a sound system (Super easy since the old Tahoe came with a second battery tray from the factory).

 

[Blee1099]

I like my Deka Intimidator

 

[96_sport_ct]

think of it this way. usually if someone brought an optima back, there is something wrong with it. i have a yellow top in a 1998 vette and it has never gone dead or given me any problems. on the other hand, i had put a yellow top in my 96 x and it crapped out after a couple months. when i brought it back to advance auto they said to replace it they have to charge it first then test to see if its holding charge. needless to say, its a big hassle. i would always go with new because then you dont have to worry about how the person used it before you got it and also you dont usually have to worry about damaged cells. the only reason everyone i know likes the optimas is because they dont spill but for the money you could definitely get a better battery and be sure you get a warranty. if they dont offer warranties i would be extremely wary of why its not being offered.

 

[J_C]

Do you plan to travel very far north with the truck? If not, I second OptimaJim's recommendation that you don't need the higher CCA in your relatively warm climate, rather a deeper cycle battery (of any brand) would be more suitable.

Personally I would not buy used for any semi-critical purpose like operating your vehicle. The battery you pick does not matter much in relation to your car stereo, rather it requires an ample alternator and sufficient capacitor bank to get you through the peak bass note as the cycling of the capacitor does not put (much if any) wear on it like it does a battery.

 

[toypaseo]

My Paseo is a stick, with 647 watts from a Rockford Fosgate Punch 60 and a Kicker DX350. Stock cold weather package alternator and stock cold weather package starter. I have only ran Diehard Gold since the first stock battery replacement. No problems.

 

[OptimaJim]

hworksinc, I understand your reservations about our SpiralCell design. If our cells were not installed under compression (versus someone inserting flat plate cells into a case by hand), we probably wouldn’t be making very good use of the space we do use. As it is, seeing an Optima last 15 years is pretty good for a “gimmicky” design. Your advice about installing isolated batteries is good and I do wish more people set up their vehicles that way. It would make my job easier.

96 sport ct, I’m sorry to hear about the problems you had with your battery, but I’m glad to hear Advance Auto charged and checked your battery before replacing it. This is typically standard practice for all battery manufacturers, although it is not always followed at the retail level. As a result, many of the “bad” batteries returned to us now are just deeply-discharged and work fine, when properly recharged.

Unfortunately, many battery chargers will not recognize or charge any battery that has been discharged below 10.5 volts. This is a charger issue and is not unique to Optima. Other manufacturers have dealt with this by voiding the warranty on any of their batteries, if they have been discharged below 10 volts or pro-rating their warranty after the first year. We decided to create a YouTube video, which explains how to recover deeply-discharged batteries- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIoaL3DWWEg The same information is also covered on page 74 of the September ’10 issue of Hot Rod magazine.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.

 

[Paraphoe]

My Paseo is a stick, with 647 watts from a Rockford Fosgate Punch 60 and a Kicker DX350. Stock cold weather package alternator and stock cold weather package starter. I have only ran Diehard Gold since the first stock battery replacement. No problems.

I've run DieHard for years as well with nary a problem. Good batteries.