Need tips for tranny fluid pan drop on 99 XLT SOHC with 5R55E | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Need tips for tranny fluid pan drop on 99 XLT SOHC with 5R55E

mikepier

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 24, 2008
Messages
325
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City, State
Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 XLT
15 XL
In the past, I had my mechanic do this job for me, but now I want to tackle it myself.
From what I heard, it is necessary to remove the front driveshaft. I looked at the 4 hex/torx bolts holding it in, and I tried a few ratchets to fit over the hex bolt, but the clearance is too tight.It looks like the Torx tool will only fit.
Any advice on how to remove it, and is it necessary?
Honestly it looks like the cat is more in the way than the driveshaft.
 



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Remove the front drive shaft universal joint with a torx wrench, swing the shaft over to the left torsion bar and fasten on top of it. Unbolt the pan, it is very close to the cat but it will out come out.
 






Remove the front drive shaft universal joint with a torx wrench, swing the shaft over to the left torsion bar and fasten on top of it. Unbolt the pan, it is very close to the cat but it will out come out.

Thanks for your help.
Just curious, can I take out these bolts with an open end/box wrench?
I don't have the Torx set, but I can get one. Is there a certain size I need?

Also I noticed they sell 2 different filter/gasket kits. One for shallow pan, another for deep pan. How do I know which one I have?
 






You need a torx wrench. Shallow pan is 2 WD, deep pan is 4X4.
 






Great, thanks.

Do you know what size Torx wrench I need? I think I read somewhere it's a T-30, but not sure.

Edit: Never mind, I found out it is T-30. I went to Lowes tonight to get a socket. To my surprise the biggest they make it in is only 1/4" drive which I thought there was no way it was going to give me enough torque to remove the bolts. Fortunately the bolts broke loose with no problem, so now I feel safe moving foward with dropping the pan soon.
 






Just did this job yesterday. Was not too bad. I managed to get most of the fluid in my drain pan. If you have a nice clean concrete driveway like me, I suggest trying to do this job in the street like I did to avoid nasty stains on your driveway. At least if you spill some fluid in the street, you can throw down sand or some other oil absorbant product and clean it up. In a few days the stains will blend in with the street.
I also jacked up the rear of the car a bit to direct the fluid to drain at the front drivers side corner of the pan since this was the only clear area underneath that could drain directly into the drain pan.

The fluid looked dark so it was definately time. When I refilled It took 4 quarts to get the level on the dipstick just where the hatcmarks start.
 






Just remember that the trans holds 10 quarts of fluid so you only changed less than half. You mixed 4 qts with 6 qts of bad fluid. Here is a method to change all the fluid.
http://www.partshp.com/FluidChange.htm
 






Just remember that the trans holds 10 quarts of fluid so you only changed less than half. You mixed 4 qts with 6 qts of bad fluid. Here is a method to change all the fluid.
http://www.partshp.com/FluidChange.htm

Yes I realize that. Thanks for the link. I did do a flush about 3 years ago, but did not drop the pan to change the filter. So I had to drop the pan this time because the filter has been in there since 2005. Maybe at some point I will do another flush.
 






When I do a pan drop I add a drain plug at the same time. Makes a lot less mess. I start by drilling a small hole in the lowest point of the pan. If you poke your bit through a ziploc bag, the bag will collect the first splash of fluid instead of it flinging around. Once that small hole's drilled I let it drain all the fluid, then tape over the hole and remove the pan. Then I enlarge the hole and add a drain plug. I use sealant to make sure there is no chance of leaks and J-B Stik to make sure the internal nut won't spin.
 






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