New and broken (AWD of a 1996 5.0 XLT).

[DeadAWD]

Hi all,

I've been reading through thousands of posts in the last few days. I now know a lot more than I did before. Thank you.

My Dad gave me his meticulously maintained 1996 Explorer 5.0 XLT AWD less than 2 weeks ago (which had 133k mi) and I proceeded to immediately begin to drive coast to coast (Delaware to Washington state). He had the truck looked over at two different shops, put on new tires, changed the oil with synthetic (which he always used) and at my request had the transmission fluid flushed. Both shops said that everything looked fine (and charged him).

I flew in from overseas 2 weeks ago and he picked me up from the airport. I drove home 3 hours from the airport. I started the truck and upon pulling out of the parking spot I heard a faint noise (rattling or clicking when the car rolled in gear). It sounded like it was coming from the front left of the truck.

Half the way through our drive (1500 miles ago) I decided that since the truck was so highly loaded in the back that I should add more tire pressure to the rears. After filling the back of the Explorer completely (but not the rear seat, as my dog needed a place to roam around) it looked like the front was only lightly loaded and the rears were bulging. I now realize that I might have exacerbated the transfer case problem.

About 350 miles out of Seattle we started hearing (and feeling) what I now realize is a shot AWD transfer case. I first thought it was the CV axle (wishful thinking). I should have known that the center console compartment was NOT a heated bread warmer. It melted our good European chocolate.

All this in retrospect, mind you.

We made it here but I don't have a car to drive around to find us a place to stay. The local shop gave me a $2000+ estimate. No way. I'll do it myself. And I don't want to do something only to have to re-do it in the future. I like doing things right the first time, so I'm not happy about putting in another AWD transfer case.

So now I'm considering my options. At first I thought I wanted to replace with a manual 4406 (it would be WAY stronger than the 4404, especially since I want to eventually tow with the vehicle). I like the strength and the functionality of the 4406. But then I was thinking that I wouldn't mind having an electronic transfer case so I didn't have to cut into the perfect body. And I doubt I'll use a 4LOW ever.

Ideally a TOD case would be great for me. 2wd or 4wd (in a AWD type of way).

So I have some questions, which I'll also post in the Modified forum.

Ideally, I'd like to have an electronic 4406 that would give me at least 2HI and some kind of 4wd, TOS or AWD equivalency. I'll rarely need a true locked-up 4wd but I'll take it if I can't get everything else. I won't be driving this vehicle seriously offroad.

Since it is a 1996 AWD I have the speedometer driven off the rear flange of the transfer case. And I want to maintain that. I WANT cruise control. I will be driving cross country again.

I know that I could get a 4406 manual shift from a 1997 F-150 that has that speedo gear. Going that route I'd need to cut off and relocate the secondary cat, buy the transfer case linkage, the different drive shafts and a special u-joint, and do some grinding, hammer banging and cutting. I could do all that, as I'm an experienced amateur mechanic (who also worked as a mechanic for a while). But . . .

QUESTION TIME:
But what I want to know is if there is a 4406 that would give me 2wd and TOD that can be used in a 1996 Explorer AWD maintaining the speedometer drive, and preferably electronically controlled (versus manually). Are there different types of electronically controlled 4406s? Or is there just one type of 4406 electronically controlled? E.g.: 4406 manual; 4406 electronic 2HI, 4HI, N, 4LO; 4406 electronic 2wd and TOD; etc.? And does anybody have part numbers?

Is there an electronic 4406 that has the speedometer gear in the rear flange for use in my 1996 or would I have to adapt that as someone on this forum has done? Then comes the issue of controlling the transfer case? I don't think my 1996 AWD has anything to control a 4406 transfer case. From reading posts it doesn't seem that my Powertrain controller would control the case. But I read about 2004-2006 external transfer case controllers (whatever that was called).

So, is there any way that I could fit an controlled transfer case that is electronically controlled to my original 1996 5.0liter automatic transmission AWD that currently uses no transfer case controller and has the speedometer drive coming off the rear flange of the transfer case?

Or is it just more worth it to install a manually controlled 4406 with the rear speedometer gear and cut up the perfect metal of the body.

Also, since there is this horrible banging noise when driving, I guess that changing the dark brown ATF in the transfer case will do nothing to cure it of its ails?

If I can located a cheap local 4404 I might just put it in just to get me mobile again (since I have no place to live and I can't even drive around to look at houses). What do I need to know about getting the top bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission. They look impossible to get to.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[techieman33]

You can get a 4404 pretty cheap, and they're pretty strong and reliable if you keep same sized tires on them. To get to the top bolts remove the center console, there are 4 bolts under the cubbie hole/trip computer area, and then you pull/pound it towards the back and it will slide out. Under that is an access panel that will allow you to get those bolts, a couple of the o2 sensors and a couple of other things. You will probably have to cut a hole in the carpet to see it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the transmission & transfer case section.

 

[DeadAWD]

One last bolt to remove the transfer case> I need advice

Hi again,

OK, so I got antsy. I've removed the skid pan and was able to loosen all the driveshaft bolts. Almost no rust down there. Dad kept the truck in great shape. I loosened those giant hex bolts that also have the torx opening, which hold that slender bracket onto the trans. So far I had only used a 10mm wrench, a 12mm wrench (12 point of course) and a 21mm wrench (tight fit but the bolts weren't tight). Lastly while under the car I loosened three of the bolts holding the TC to the trans (the lowest two bolts and the middle bolt on the left side of the car.

Realizing that I wasn't going to ever get to the top ones without some kind of voodoo magic I then decided that I'd need to remove the interior. Thank you techieman33 for telling me that the center console had to slide backwards. It would have helped if I had stayed inside until your message appeared. but instead I disassembled the entire thing (much more than I needed to) before I got your message. After I became stumped I went inside and lo and behold. Then I pounded on it and it came out. So I spent the next 40 minutes reassembling some of the center console. Tempis Cluegit: Time flies when you are clueless!

Next I loosened the seats, took off all the trim panels and pulled up the carpet. I tore a tiny piece of the carpet beneath one of the seat attachment points. It was fused to the body, likely due to the heat treatment that I gave it driving out here. I was bummed at ripping the carpet but the seat frame will completely cover the tiny 1" tear. Then I removed the access cover and saw that I would be able to access the top two bolts without problem.

* * * BUT I still can't get clear access to the middle bolt on the passenger side, next to and slightly above the muffler hanger bracket, just in front of the rear cats. How the heck do I get that one bolt out?????????

That is the only thing hanging me up at this point. I'd have the AWD case out if it weren't for that bolt. Do I have to jack up the engine/trans and remove that strange cross member (with those crazy tensioned adjusters) in order to remove the muffler hanger and lower the exhaust an inch or so? Or is there some magical way to get at that bolt? I'm all ears.

If I could loosen that last bolt then I'd feel confident that I could R & R the transfer case without problem on Saturday. I'm going to try and put a 4404 back in and slowly collect up all the things I need to do the job right (i.e. a 4406).

So, if someone has some good advice on exactly how to get that last bolt out, I'd appreciate it.

Sincerely,
Dave

 

[techieman33]

I used a U joint and some extension to get that last bolt

 

[gijoecam]

To answer your question about the t-cases, a transfer case out of a late-90s Expedition *may* bolt up to the back of the transmission on your 5.0. No guarantees there though. The t-case in those was essentially a super-sized version of the Control-Trac 44-05 found in the Explorers, and their function (and wiring) was remarkably similar. However, I don't know if any of them utilized the speedo gear in the tail for speed measurement though... I'd have to do some more digging.

Now, even if everything mechanically worked out, you'd still need to transplant the controls for the system. I would think it could be done by swapping the control system from a 95-96 Explorer 4x4 with a V-6, but again, there could be obstacles getting the V-6 GEM to play nice with the V-8 PCM. Probably not an insurmountable task, but not a simple plug-n-play either.

I believe somebody here once did a similar swap, but I believe the donor powertrain and wiring came from an Expedition, IIRC. They were swapping a V-6 Explorer to a V-8, so they had the control system in place already; it was just a matter of making the engine run.

The mechanical case is really the easiest and simplest choice. It'll bolt right in, and there are no additional electronics to deal with. The truck's electronics won't even know it's there.

Hope that helps!

 

[DeadAWD]

Transfer case R & R Completed !!!!

Hi everyone,

I feel good. I successfully installed a used but recently rebuilt AWD (4404) transfer case into my Explorer and I now I have wheels again!!! It feels good. Now I just need to find a place to live.

I wanted to thank everyone for their assistance and support. It made a huge difference to know that other people like myself have done the same type of thing and that I had a support group standing behind me.

The R & R of the transfer case wasn't difficult. It took some time due to the fact that I had never done it before. I had to learn where everything was and how to get to it. Getting the transfer case up into position was a little difficult since I had the Explorer on the ground. There wasn't a lot of room under there to maneuver myself, let alone the transfer case. But I managed.

On each driveshaft where they met the transfer case I removed 2 of the bolts and then drove the car 10 inches or so in order to spin the shaft 180 degrees. Then I applied the parking brake good and tight, chocked one of the front wheels and removed the other two bolts on each driveshaft. A light tap on the rear drive shaft and it separated. I had to bang on the front one quite a bit to get it loose. Once I finally removed all six bolts to the transfer case (and that strange bracket) the transfer case came off the trans very easily. I cleaned the rear transmission flange carefully and used a new gasket (for which I paid $7.58: yowch!- I might try cutting my own next time).

Like I said before, getting the "new" transfer case into position with the Explorer on the ground was a little tricky, but I managed to do it. Then I just bolted everything back together.

The test drive was music to my ears - sans loud banging. The old transfer case was shot. I'll recycle the aluminum or something.

I have yet to reinstall the center console or the plastic trim by the door sills but I had to lay the carpet back down and bolt in the seats for the test drive. Tomorrow I'll finish buttoning everything back together.

I've decided that as soon as I find a place to live I'm going to start collecting all the parts that I need to convert over to a 4406. I've located the perfect rebuilt manual 4406. I still like the idea of an electronic one. But I wouldn't know how to control it. And I want the speedometer and cruise control. And I'm not opposed to having to go under the truck in order to change from 2 to 4 wheel drive. I'm not a fan of cutting the bodywork. We'll see.

Thanks again to everyone.

Oh, and I'm having a problem removing the door sill trim clips from that black plastic piece mounted on the floor. When I removed the door sill trim piece some of the clips stuck to the trim piece and some stayed in that black plastic piece mounted to the floor of the car. But I can't manage to remove them from the black plastic piece. Anyone know how to do it? That black plastic piece looks pretty bent up where the trim clips pulled out (or maybe I'm being a perfectionist). Does Ford replace the black plastic piece in the car every time after removing the door sill trim?

Sincerely,
Dave

 

[techieman33]

The black piece your talking about is the channel for the wiring harness I assume? Those clips should pull out with a pair of pliers.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update! It's a good feeling to know that you fixed it yourself, and didn't have to give it to a shop.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Great job Dave- and I must say- very well written posts, and you searched first too! I wish all newbies were that diligent!

Only problem is- your screen name is no longer valid!

 

[BrooklynBay]

He should change it to ResurrectedAWD.

 

[DeadAWD]

Part Number for Ford Gasket for TC to Auto Trans

Hi,

There was some confusion at the parts counter at the Ford Dealership when I went to buy the gasket that goes in between the 4404 AWD transfer case and the 4r70w automatic transmission on the 5.0V8 (my year is 1996). I finally got the correct one so I thought I'd list it for everyone.

This gasket is circular with six bolt holes and one locator pin hole (so it looks like it has 7 bolt holes). Part number E7TZ-7086-A. I paid $6.92 plus tax.

After I finish a week of driving around with the "new to me" transfer case I will be draining the Mercon ATF and putting in synthetic. That should hold up better to higher temperatures before breaking down.

And is there any use for the old transfer case? I might take it apart to take a look-see. I' curious to know exactly what went wrong, whether it was the chain and gears or the viscous coupling.

Thanks again all,
Dave

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome Dave, and good work on the AWD.

Find Aaron's Mountaineer here, he installed a TOD BW4406 in his AWD truck. The big trucks have the speed sensor through 1998, Explorers have it through 1997. You can use the entire Explorer V6 4405 system to operate the 4406, Aaron did exactly that.

The GEM has nothing to do with the engine, and there are only two for each given year. The 95-97 GEM is different from 98-01. Get the 4WD version if you get the TOD 4406, all others(AWD/2WD) are the same. You also need the 4WD and TOD module from that same V6 4WD Explorer. You would also need the 4WD radio bezel and do some wiring to provide power to the 4WD parts. Aaron found that there are two wires not in the engine bay wiring of the V8 trucks. Check with his thread about that more.

Read the many 4406 threads about drive shafts, gas tank and mounting. I have a 98 Navigator TC, and hope to get an Expedition GEM to operate it eventually. That's for later. Night,