Flyboycoe's AWD 5.0 to 4WD Conversion

[Hokie]

What is even stranger is the front DS it seems to make no difference on. We need to get this all straight so that others won't have issues like you did. I guess 410, 97 V8 and I just got lucky in our swaps?

yeah, now you've got me thinking about that... How can any front DS work but the rear not work? Unless the front DS has enough room in the slip joint to accomodate all variations?

 

[VA Mtnr]

AWD - B/W Manual Swap

The Mountaineer runs again.

My AWD to B/W swap is complete. Costs = B/W 4406 (62k miles!) + shifter & boots - $140, Conversion u-joint - $12, Front and rear D/S's ($100 each) - $200, shifter bolts (M14 x 1.75 x 32mm long) and new T/C fluid - $8: for a total of $360.

My correct rear driveshaft arrived by UPS. It came from a '99 Exped., 5.4L, 4x4. I had the salvage yard mgr. measure it and call me before shipping. The correct length is 44 inches overall or 34 inches yoke to yoke. (Rear D/S's from 4.6L's are 5 inches too long at over 49 inches total).

Most all salvage yards stock parts and relate them back to the original 17 digit VIN. In this case you want a D/S from a VIN: 1FM'P'U...etc. Expedition. The fourth position letter must be a 'P' which indicates a 5.4L and longer (stronger?) transmission and increased GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Range) for increased hauling and towing capacity.

Don't pick up a VIN: 1FM'R'U...etc. D/S as it will come from a 4.6L with shorter transmission and be 5 inches too long as stated above. I've only checked lengths on four '99 Expeds.. '97, '98, '00 & '01 may be the same.

This T/C feels like it has never been used. I oiled the shifter mechanism prior to installation and have to firmly snap the lever to each position. This is a nice mod.

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

I didn't mean take the bumper off completely, lol! Maybe I misread, but I thought you were replacing your dented stock rear bumper with another stock one. I was merely saying that if it's dented, leave it be, because you're going to dent it a lottttttttt more

Ah. Gotchya. I'm pretty sure Tilt was talking about my front bumper, replacing it with one that allows better approach angles.

 

[Tilt168]

yes i was....silly fishies! leave us cadets be!

now where did i leave my cane pole and jar of worms soaked in cap'n morgan....

 

[Spas]

yes i was....silly fishies! leave us cadets be!

now where did i leave my cane pole and jar of worms soaked in cap'n morgan....

That's it. You're going to Moab this year all right... duct taped and tied up in the bottom of a barrel that's going to be strapped to the Bronco's back bumper, and I'm going to go across Dump Bump with it about 20x

 

[Tilt168]

mwahaha! you know the worms in cap'n was funny, im glad there aint no snow for you to poor over me when im passed out somewhere....

 

[SN95GT50]

I've looked at some of these installs, and then on the way to work I noticed how little room there is between my leg and the console. Any one ever implement a small electric motor to do the shifting, then get a switch & bezel from an explorer.

Just curious?

SN95GT50

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Im 6' 1" and the shifter does not bother me at all.

There is a 4406 electric shift, but you have to use a smaller gas tank to accommodate the motor.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97181

 

[5.0L96Exp]

410, MtnGreen and the likes. How much slip was left in the front driveshaft after the conversion? I have less than 3/16" before the slip yoke bottomes out under compression. Im afraid if it does bottom out Im going to be replacing pinion bearings or u-joints or something that costs me money.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The front DS is a tight fit- I ran mine about a month with no problem. I wouldn't sweat it.

 

[5.0L96Exp]

Ya I suppose the front diff is more less fixed in one place anyhow. I mean it does flex a twist about the rubber bushings, but not much. I will leave her as is and see what happens.

As for the Napa "Brute Force" U-joints I have mixed feelings. The rear U-joint on the rear axle has already failed after less than 1000km. It appears that 2 cups opposite eachother are spinning inside the yoke. I can attribute this to nothing other than poor tolerances. Now that I think of it, I dont recall needing as much force to get them in as all the others. Anyhow, I'm going to replace the U-joint with a Spicer U-joint like I should have done in the first place instead of getting the cheaper made in who knows where joint (The oem U-joints were manufactured by Spicer and had 255000km on them before the failed).

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Right, the front diff has two hangers then another bracket to locate it side to side, its not going anywhere.

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

Check up time:
I now have the following items on my list,

4406 transfer case
Front and rear drive shafts
Lower shift lever (Ford Part # F65Z7210BC)
U-joint 1330-1310 hybrid (Brute Force 1-0134)

I have the following parts ordered from the Ford dealer and should be here on Tuesday,

Upper shift lever (# F65Z7210AB)
Linkage (# F75Z7277AA)
Rubber Boot (# XL3Z7B051AA)

Also, where can I get a shifter knob for the 4wd? I have seen zero in the yards.

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

So my parts finally came in from Ford and I am able to do the swap. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it done on Saturday if my friend is available to help me out. I should have a full report with photos by Monday.

However, the rubber boot from Ford doesn't look like it'll fit with the center console/message center. Has anybody encountered this, or made it work. I will probably just trim it down.

 

[Tilt168]

hey flyboy i would be down to help out as well if need me, let me know!

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

stuck

Well my buddy and I started the swap this weekend, we got as far as we could during daylight hours on Saturday, and spent most of today cleaning up his dad's garage. Anyway, I ran into some issues:

1) The rear driveshaft I got isn't going to work for me. Would it be okay for me to take my old explorer shaft to a driveline shop and have them cut it to fit?

2) I can clear the case on the drive side, but it seems like the 2ndary cat on the passenger side is in the way. For those of you who have done this swap, did you have this issue or did you already do exhaust work to your X? I was thinking of doing a cat-back system anyway and might just cut the pipes, fit the case, and have the exhaust shop work around it.

3) I didn't get the bolts that attach the shifter to the tranny from the dealer. What sized bolts does it take? Are they already attached to the tranny? Maybe I just missed it.

I would have grabbed pictures but getting a camera was the least of my priorities at the time. I'll grab some before I start working on it again next weekend.

 

['97 V8]

THe bolts that hold the shifter to the tranny are the same bolts used to hold that metal bracket that mounts to the tranny and case. Cant help you with the secondary cat as i have a test pipe in its place.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Well my buddy and I started the swap this weekend, we got as far as we could during daylight hours on Saturday, and spent most of today cleaning up his dad's garage. Anyway, I ran into some issues:

1) The rear driveshaft I got isn't going to work for me. Would it be okay for me to take my old explorer shaft to a driveline shop and have them cut it to fit?

2) I can clear the case on the drive side, but it seems like the 2ndary cat on the passenger side is in the way. For those of you who have done this swap, did you have this issue or did you already do exhaust work to your X? I was thinking of doing a cat-back system anyway and might just cut the pipes, fit the case, and have the exhaust shop work around it.

3) I didn't get the bolts that attach the shifter to the tranny from the dealer. What sized bolts does it take? Are they already attached to the tranny? Maybe I just missed it.

I would have grabbed pictures but getting a camera was the least of my priorities at the time. I'll grab some before I start working on it again next weekend.

1. There appears to be a difference in the 4.6 and 5.4 motors driveshaft lengths- the 5.4 is required. I would find on of those instead of getting your stock one modified. Balance may be a problem if you do.

2. I don't have my secondary cats, neither does 410 I believe, nor does 97 V8. I never even thought about it being an issue. I'd remove the secondary cats if I were you.

3. The bolts are large- I think they take a 21mm wrench to remove, but I don't know what size. I'd look for some metric bolts at a hardware store- get a idea of what size you need and get a few bolts that look close.

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

There appears to be a difference in the 4.6 and 5.4 motors driveshaft lengths- the 5.4 is required. I would find on of those instead of getting your stock one modified. Balance may be a problem if you do.

A new shaft would run me about $100. Getting my existing shaft cut and balanced would be $60.

I think it's a good time to do the exhaust, and I'll just cut off the 2nd cats. I'll have to check out a couple places to find the bolts for the shifter.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

That's cheap for a cut and balance, keep in mind you will need the slip yoke for the transfercase.