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New to the forum and need some advice

MattHoss

Member
Joined
December 11, 2018
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Explorer Limited
Hi all,

I've lurked on the site long enough. Its good to see all the mods and work others are doing. My 2011 is my daily commuter and other than adding some utility features ( mainly racks for transporting the kids gear ) my rig has remained the same.

I've been looking around and can't find what I need. I've recently been fighting a P0430 code. It will come on and eventually clear itself. I've read a few other posts that suggest a manifold leak or to possibly clean the catalytic converters with citric acid. Supposedly the cats are bolt on. I figured its worth a try. Anyone else try and remove their catalytic converters on a 2011 or newer to clean it?

Thanks for site and thanks for looking at my post. Any advice is appreciated.

-Matt
 



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If you're talking about the exhaust manifold-cats they are integral to the exhaust manifold. You cannot replace the cats without replacing the exhaust manifold. Fronts are easier to do than the rears as its tighter in there. As the parts are labeled in parts supplier stores they call them "Mani-Cats" as they are 1 part in the same. You'll need 6 studs, a manifold gasket, and a y-pipe gasket per mani-cat that you replace. All the studs came off the head when I did mine and none of the manifold nuts on the studs turned at all!!!! My front exhaust mani was leaking audibly and I replaced it. Go slow and work by hand. The combo part comes in about $300 from fordpartsgiant. Not too bad if thats your problem, but I haven't done the rear one, which may be quite a bit more of a squeeze. When you disconnect the exhaust y-pipe from both sides, the whole business gets out of your way. Best of luck.

edit: also, if that code is an O2 sensor code, i don't know haven't looked, you may be able to pinpoint which side of the engine is throwing the code using obd scanner tools and apps. Or, just pay the diagnostic fee $100 at a dealer and then leave.
 






If you're talking about the exhaust manifold-cats they are integral to the exhaust manifold. You cannot replace the cats without replacing the exhaust manifold. Fronts are easier to do than the rears as its tighter in there. As the parts are labeled in parts supplier stores they call them "Mani-Cats" as they are 1 part in the same. You'll need 6 studs, a manifold gasket, and a y-pipe gasket per mani-cat that you replace. All the studs came off the head when I did mine and none of the manifold nuts on the studs turned at all!!!! My front exhaust mani was leaking audibly and I replaced it. Go slow and work by hand. The combo part comes in about $300 from fordpartsgiant. Not too bad if thats your problem, but I haven't done the rear one, which may be quite a bit more of a squeeze. When you disconnect the exhaust y-pipe from both sides, the whole business gets out of your way. Best of luck.

edit: also, if that code is an O2 sensor code, i don't know haven't looked, you may be able to pinpoint which side of the engine is throwing the code using obd scanner tools and apps. Or, just pay the diagnostic fee $100 at a dealer and then leave.

Thanks for the reply runningonfords! Wow, that seems a bit involved. I pulled that code with my odb scanner. I'll load up my FORScan setup to see if it can tell me which side. In my quick searches, ~$300 is what I've found as well for replacements. That's why I wanted to try and clean it out first. Looks like I may be under the frame this weekend, scoping it out.
 












It honestly wasn't that involved or that big of a deal. Six nuts and the manifold comes off....with all the studs too, yay! I did have to use odd combinations of 1/4" stubby socket with size largener to get a 15mm DEEP socket or whatever it is with enough room to twist near the cat, but aside from the cleaning of the mating surface several times to be sure (use the red scotch pads at autozone and non-lint rags with electronics or maf cleaner final wipe) it was no big deal. I actually scratched the head surface a bit with a green scotch pad, don't do this, and ended up sanding with 1000-2000 grit on a wood block briefly to be sure it was okay. Red scotch pads are your friend. Wear goggles when using solvents!
 






Take a long drive and get them good and hot first. Really a lot of short drives and the cats not getting hot can cause issues. If that is your driving pattern then hop in and give her a 100 mile drive mix it with stop and go for about 25 or so miles and get them good and hot. You say it is intermittent does it come on during short trips and go off on longer?
 






This is timely. My 2011 threw a P0430 also and I took it to the dealer to get it looked at while they were fixing an airbag issue. They told me catalytic converter was bad and they wanted $1200 to replace/repair. I laughed at them and it brought me here. I already knew the code, bug was hoping they could tell me whether it was the cat or the O2 sensor more definitively. Oh well.

I'm interested to know how long the job took and where is the best place to access the Bank 2 Cat? From top or bottom of the motor? I haven't picked up the car yet, so I haven't had a chance to explore it.
 






Which side is bank 2, the front or rear of the vehicle? The closest diagram I can find is this, but its not the same car or engine size, though it looks transverse.

https://www.autocodes.com/p0430_2012_ford_fusion.html

I think there was enough space in my '14 when doing the front-of-vehicle cat to take it out the bottom, and the new one I think I dropped in from the top. Plenty of room once you disconnect both exhaust pipes and move the flex Y pipe out the way, but plenty of lying on the ground under ramps unscrewing things as well. Beware inserting those news studs and do 'em by hand slowly!!! Also, if you've got a 7/8 wrench you can probably install JUST new sensors only yourself. I re-used my O2 sensors on the new cat and installed them seated with the cat between my arms and legs and my helper twisting them tight. No codes yet!
 












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