No forward, only reverse in 1995 2wd with 4R44E

[schultp]

First post....joined over a year ago.

My son is about 40 miles away from me at college with a 1995 Ranger 3.0L with 4R44E (I actually am assuming its got a 4R44E...I haven't checked but given the year, it probably is...).

It is a high mileage truck (>200K miles) and has a slow tran fluid leak at the output. Because of this my son keeps close tabs on the fluid level and makes sure it is at full with periodic top offs.

But, today he called and said he was travelling on the highway and had to pull off since the truck didn't want to shift past second gear (?limp mode). Fluid level was OK. He did say the fluid was red-brown though. He had about 20 miles to go so he kept going with the warning flashers on.

About a few miles away from home he was at some stop lights and noted it was getting more difficult for the truck to engage in forward motion. Finally, it at the final stop light it cesed any forward movement and now only moves in reverse. He reported some "grinding" during this later stages but he admits it sounded more like something metal rubbing against another part. I am not sure how accurate this description is though.

He had it towed to his apartment parking lot. I am planning a one day excursion next weekend to try to repair the truck.

I have searched through the posts and feel I should attempt a VB, EPC solenoid and gasket repair/change as well as the fluid/filter change.

I need the experts opinion on what else to do....remember I have one day and will be doing this is a parking lot. I will be bringing jackstands, floor jack, laptop with scanning software/cable, and loads of tools. I am well versed in auto repair although I have never done this job (I am currently R&R my VW Jetta TDI cylnder head).

Given the location, time constraints, and symptoms I am open to suggestions on what to do and strategies on how to get it done. I am hoping to get some info tonight so I can order parts tonight or at the latest tomorrow AM.

TIA,

This is a great site!

Paul.

 

[XR250rdr]

4R44E is found being 2.3L and 3.0L Rangers. 4.0L Rangers have a 4R55E. The main difference is additional clutch plates in some locations.

Grinding noises are never good. Looking at the Ford manual, I'd guess the rear one way clutch went out, but you won't be able to tell until you open up the pan. Even then it may be hard to tell if the pieces didnt fall down into the pan.

Per ford, loss of forward can be caused by the following (I had to remove the recommended solutions to get the list to format correctly):

Possible Component

201 ELECTRICAL ROUTINE

No Electrical Concerns

301 HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE

Fluid
Improper level

Shift Linkage (Internal/External) Transmission shift cable and bracket damaged or misadjusted. TR sensor out of adjustment

Improper Pressures
Improper band/clutch application pressure, line pressure low

Filter and Seal Assembly
Filter damaged, plugged; seal damaged, cut or missing

Main Control Assembly
Screw out of torque specification
Gaskets damaged, off location
Separator plate damaged
Forward modulator valve/EPC boost valve (207), forward engagement control valve (209), spring, damaged, missing, misassembled, stuck, bore damaged
Wrong component used in rebuild

Pump Assembly
Pump damaged, leaking
Screws out of torque specification

Center Support Assembly
Forward clutch support seal rings leaking

Forward Clutch Assembly
Forward clutch assembly burnt/damaged /leaking. Check ball in cylinder /leaking piston seal rings

Rear One-Way Clutch Assembly
Rear one-way clutch damaged, worn

 

[schultp]

Well. Did a valve body R&R (Ford TSB and the Superior shift kit), EPC solenoid (ebay refurbished unit), filter and fluid change.

Truck goes into reverse with no problem. But, absolutely no forward gears....even if revving up to 5000rpm.

Any ideas on what to try next? Could a band adjustment help?

Edit: Interestingly, when adding back fluid I poured 6 qts into the tranny and noticed significant but fortunately temporary leaking down below. It was off the jack stands so I didn't climb under the truck. Once we moved the truck in reverse the leak stopped. Is there some sort of vent or opening that would leak if 6 qts is added all at once. I have read of people filling with 4 qts initially and then adding additional fluid with the vehicle running....is this what I should have done?

TIA,

Paul.

 

[schultp]

Bump....anyone with suggestions?

It looks like I should do a pressure test. Also, my superior kit had some servo springs. Do you think I should work on the servos?

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The fluid leaked out of the rear vent because you can't add fluid with the engine off. The internal pump has to circulate the fluid into the entire transmission. I suspect an internal clutch pack failure due to running it with low fluid (because of the leak). The material probably fried from friction.

 

[schultp]

BB,

The transmission never ran with the fluid low. The leak is very minor and required a small amount of fluid about once a month.

I am thinking this is an internal problemtoo. The truck is not of enough value to pursue a rebuild. But, before I send it to the junkyard do you have any last diagnostic tests, ideas, easy fixes to consider before I have it towed? I'd hate to find out it was a relatively simple fix afterwards!

Thanks,

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could connect an air test plate to test each section individually.

 

[schultp]

BB,

Thanks for the idea. I read about using the air pressure test procedure to isolate the problem area(s). But, this truck is in a college apartment parking lot and I don't have access to an air compressor.

At this point do you feel a pressure test would provide any useful info? Do you think a band adjustment would provide any benefit with the symptoms I have? If not, I may just have the junkyard make a pick up and cut my losses now.

If there is a glimmer of hope with a small amount of effort I am willing to go back to the truck and give one more afternoon of effort. Any opinions on whether I should do this would be appreciated.

Addendum: I noticed on a schematic on the wittrans.com site that my trans filter should be installed with a couple o-rings. I did not have these. What will this lead to? Any chance it is causing the no forward movement situation? .....just being hopeful

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The filter is the part that draws fluid from the pan (sump). Bad or missing O rings will draw air instead of fluid. Replace the O rings & filter, and see what happens. # 96 in my list of useful threads shows how to make a portable air supply for a test plate: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246792. A small metal air tank is another option.

 

[schultp]

Well,

I went back to my son's place and worked some more on his truck. I adjusted the bands and added o-rings to the filter.

I topped off the fluid and even added a bottle of Lucas transmission additive.

It really shifts nicely and briskly into reverse....still no forward gears

So, it is off to the junkyard. I want to thank everyone for suggestions. I have learned a tremendous amount about transmissions by simply reading this forum!

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check the range sensor?

 

[schultp]

I loosened it to adjust the intermediate band. I then put the truck in reverse and the back-up lights basically were on throughout the full extent of rocking the sensor back and forth. So, I placed it visually back in its original position and tightened it back down.

Any other way to test the range sensor?

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You have to test the electrical contacts since it's basically like a multifunction/multicontact switch.

 

[schultp]

What are the classic symptoms of a defective range sensor anyway?

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The range sensor tells the PCM what gear you are in.

 

[schultp]

I guess what I am asking is if a defective range sensor would account for the symptoms I have (no forward, only reverse)?

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's possible since the sensor tells the computer that you are in drive.

 

[schultp]

I guess what I am asking is if a defective range sensor would account for the symptoms I have (no forward, only reverse)?

Paul.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's possible. The transmission is electronic as well as hydraulic.

 

[schultp]

lol! Sorry about posting the same question twice. But, thanks for the 2 separate answers!!

Paul.