Power Window Problems

[Pepper]

'96 4 door, 4X4.

None of my four power windows work - at all. No whirring, no noise.

It's not a fuse or breaker- power door locks are on the same circuit, and they work. I've done quite a bit of searching here and other forums, and haven't found any hints or similiar problems.

I'm assuming that the problem is somewhere in the driver's door lock/window assembly. Took the door panel and assembly apart today, and didn't see anything obvious in the switch assembly or wire connections

My next step is to spray contact cleaner into the switches. Any other suggestions from anyone?

It's really annoying to get half way through a drive through and realize that your windows don't work. And, with the beautiful weather in S.Ontario right now, not having windows is killing me!

 

[Peter Weber]

Pepper, welcome.
I don't have an answer for your problem (you've done all the obvious stuff), although I'm sure somebody on this board will have a solution for you.
Having lived in Kitchener from '64-'78, I just wanted to be the first to welcome you.

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Peter
'99 Sport 4wd SOHC

 

[01EB5.0]

I have a back window that doesn't work at all, and the others are intermittant from the driver's switches. I assume you tried the other door switches besides the one on the driver's door. Also do the lights in the car dim at all when pressing the button? I have only had the passanger side front window not go down from the driver's switch 2 times since i purchased mine last october. The rear one was sorta making noises and one day it would not go down. ALso check the lock on the driver's door...the window lock. Good luck!

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TravisN1@AOL.COM
1995 XLT 4x4

 

[gijoecam]

Try this... locate a wiring diagram and ring out the wiring... I suspect a couple of things... first of all, check the main power lead to determine if there is power coming in at the switches on the driver's door. I suspect this is the problem. Often times with the constant flexing of the wires where they go through the door jamb, the wires will break internally, cutting power to the switch. I had this happen to the wire that goes from the switch on the driver's door to the switch on my passenger door on my minivan a while back. It's alos possible that the switch for the window locks shorted as well, but I'm not really too familiar with the switch set-up for the 4-doors. Also, sometimes a good electrical shop can figure it out for you. Keep us posted and let us know how it turns out.
-Joe-

 

[gijoecam]

By the way... I know what you mean about the good weather we're having around here... But at least you can drive YOUR truck around... Mine's in the shop again!!!
[Mutter, mutter, grumble, FORD, mutter, grumble...]


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98 Sport
Bone-stock
LEMON in progress!

 

[Gofast]

Don't know if this will help, but here's what I have found on my problem listed in this section as well.

Ford T/S for shorts etc. in the wiring, 3 hours $215.00. My Short affected the Dome lights,Map lights and the Radio. My driver side window would not roll-up either. The drivers door window motor was bad, another $340.00 after labor.

While T/S the power window, we used a test light ( cheap at Autozone ). We could check the switch for power while depressing buttons etc. I suspect that you are not getting power to the switches. Are the other swithces working on other doors? If not go ahead and pull the swithces from the drivers door and check the other doors again. This elimnates the switch it self.

I would also back track your wiring and verify that you are getting power to the switches. It's probable a loose ground or broken/pinched wire going to your door.

Good luck, I'm off to the dealer to pay my fee's for thier services after I gave up in frustration. I found the Hayden Manual to be very poor on wiring diagrams. I'm lookin for a manual on CD ROM that has more information.



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Rob Robertson
94 XLT 4X4 4 door
5.5" Superlift,RS9000s,Warn manual hubs,31 X 11.5's
"Take the road less traveled, surprise a Jeep"

 

[Pepper]

Thanks for the responses everyone. And thanks as well for the welcome.

I think I'll be bringing my truck into a dealer soon for this, simply because I don't have time to spend another saturday working through it. At least I tried.

I second Gofast's view on manuals - my Chilton's doesn't mention anything about power windows in the schematics - no wire colors, anything. Makes it difficult to troubleshoot.

To answer some of the questions...none of the switches work, and I get no incidation that a load is being placed on any of the windows. I suspect it's the main power supply as well, but have no way of identifying or tracing it.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. This board is great - far more inviting than rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer.

 

[Stephen]

Also, welcome. This really is the best Explorer site on the net. No question there.

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Stephen Withrow
StephenLS400@aol.com
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97 Explorer Limited 4X4 SOHC V6
98 Lexus LS400

 

[Pepper]

Thought I'd post the outcome, in case anyone ever searches the archive with a similiar problem.

The culprit was a broken wire behind the dash. Behind the radio, to be exact, near what I think I heard the mechanic call the delay module?

Anyway, cost next to nothing in terms of parts to fix, but about 3 hours labour, unfortunately. At least I can go through drive throughs now.

 

[Stephen]

Thanks for posting the outcome, good solution you got lucky. I had some problems on an old Aerostar van one time with the windows, bad motors.

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Stephen Withrow
StephenLS400@aol.com
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97 Explorer Limited 4X4 SOHC V6
98 Lexus LS400

 

[Haroldw]

I've got a similar problem, my door locks work fine, but my windows, interior lights and windshield wipers don't work. All the fuses look fine.

 

[SMASHEK]

Did you solve this?

I posted another message , did you solve this? If so then how?

 

[dondiesel444]

the wiring on Explorers is obviously JUNK. I'm having a problem where my dome light comes on and my doors unlock by themselves. What a POS this thing is...

 

[Haroldw]

For mine it turned out to be the GEM (Generic Electical Module). I understand this controls about everyting. It's a cool $160 at Ford, I couldn't find anyone else who carried it. My problem was everything electrical that only worked when the egnition was turned on didn't work. This fixed the problem.

 

[SMASHEK]

Solved It!!

I found 2 wires broken inside the rubber boot that connects the driver door to the body. The light blue with black stripe wire was thicker than most.

I checked continuity between the switch and behind the dash and found it was dead.

Cut into the boot and it was completly broken off. I also found a small purple wire that was broken. My mirror defrost never worked so I hope that solves that issue.

Another thing I found in the door panel was a light bulb socket that was not being used that was taped by the door handle. This socket fits into the lower door panel reflector lense. I put a 194 bulb in it and it lights when the door opens, what a bonus!

 

[Robert]

Yup, in '98 Ford dropped the lights from inside the door. It looks like they kept using the same wire harness though from the '95-'97. Does yours have the lense still in the lower corner of the door as well as the hole for the bulb? If so, then those with '98 (and maybe later) should be able to put a bulb in and reconnect it to have the lense light up when they open their doors.

 

[SMASHEK]

It has the lens and the hole

Yes it has the lens and the hole. I don't understand why they did not use it.

It seem like a good safety and convenience feature. Not a big deal but why not?

I will do the Pass side today.

 

[Robert]

They had a bunch of left over wire harnesses from the '95-'97. I'm sure somewhere down the line the harness changed and no longer has the connector. In '98 Ford introduced the puddle lamps so they probably felt that the door lights weren't needed anymore.