Project thread: “Beast”

[TribeZ]

Fixed my rear wiper motor, installed the back up cam, replaced my back gate lock actuator but it’s still little weak..

Tore apart half the other engine so far. Was more focused on new rigs repairs.

I had to swap the shaft out of the motor for the rear wiper.

 

[TribeZ]

So my only current issue, besides a tiny amount of white smoke at only start up.. and still havnt seen coolant leave the system…

Is error codes for pcm errors. P0602 and P1000.

I realized the p1000 is probably because I keep reseting codes and it needs more cycles, but the p0602 I am wondering if the new engine is part of this ? The PCM was the same and is the harness attached to the body?

My tune is working, I have a very fun and aggressive 2nd gear above 650 throttle position dialed in. It could get pushed into 5400 RPMs but I have shifting at 5200. Feels so smooth grabs third gear around d 2800rpm after the shift. And usually around 70-72mph. Working on first gear next and getting it to drop down it more often. Just hoping to stop the codes popping. My plan is to let it ride until the 10 cycles or more for the emissions to finish its “cycle” And see if the 0602 is still showing.

Edit: after more reading the 0602 is def just from tuning and not a big deal either.

Ordering all Moog Lower ball joints and tie rods, Upper control arms w/ ball joints both sides, and new front shocks ( Rancho 5000 ) . Not a fan of the Monroe front shocks, Still lock the rear coil assist monroe though.

 

[TribeZ]

decided to run the bilsteins from the donor truck instead of getting new Rancho’s for now. They looked clean and I think will be an upgrade over my Monroe.

Moog LBJ, upper control arms, and tie rods coming. And my new brake calipers / pads excited to rip the front end apart in a few weeks.

 

[VR4]

those shocks have about 5k on them. in fact the entire front end has less than 5k on moog parts and poly bushings (except for right front LCA iirc. i got lazy and didnt feel like changing them)

they lied about the HC in the cooling system. just FYI

 

[410Fortune]

I would avoid that shop

 

[TribeZ]

those shocks have about 5k on them. in fact the entire front end has less than 5k on moog parts and poly bushings (except for right front LCA iirc. i got lazy and didnt feel like changing them)

they lied about the HC in the cooling system. just FYI

i drilled the separator plate in that trans too. basically j-mod as much as i could (some of the holes were already bigger than recommended). i did not take any accumulator springs out though as i towed with it.

have fun with it. i kinda miss that turd

Holy **** I just realized you were the one that sold it to me!!! Knew you said you were in here but hah.

Thank you for selling it to me btw.
I am absolutely loving it so far. I don’t think the head gasket is leaking either. They just couldn’t get the thermostat to open..

I see some white smoke at start to but only when it’s cold anyways. Pretty normal to me.

And good to know the jmod is already done imma swap out the sonnax zip kit still and that thing should be solid.

I got the fill on the valve cover to stop leaking, the egr tube from my truck worked nice.

Dang I probably wasted money on the moog stuff then I couldn’t tell they were so new but I think you did tell me . I’m a sucker for shiny parts so I’ll probably still run the new stuff. But those bilsteins .

 

[TribeZ]

VR4 you’re totally right I can just cut that nice section you already made from your exhaust and get rid of my rear cat, would I be dumb to use band+clamp couplings to do that ? I don’t have a welder but I do know how to braze copper I think it’s pretty similar.

I also found your speakers wood jigs and will be keeping those. I already have a new set of 4 way pioneers but it’s cool to have the option for different speaker sizes.

Will be after the blender door on hoping the donors isn’t broken. I plan to use tomorrow for some more deconstructions. Taking the holiday today.

 

[TribeZ]

I would avoid that shop

Sadly in general or sucks to know more about the vehicle then most people that end up working on it. But I have been hyper focusing on it all for 15 years lol.

I had 1 awesome guy he wasn’t an explorer expert but he always did methodically good work. And was cheap. Just the dude and his son running the place they were awesome. We still exchange Xmas cards .

 

[TribeZ]

Decided to pull the VB today. Excited to rebuild and possibly have it on next weekend. Maybe tomorrow if I get bored.

 

[TribeZ]

I found a saleen bumper ?? It was on a 1996 limited. Rest of the truck was clearly not a saleen.

Also was another 96 ( maybe 95? It wasn’t a first gen. But had the older twist handle for the back hatch ) and it had a plastic solid intake looked like a K&N kit but it is stamped ford? Gonna try it out.

Edit: bumper might just be random after market ? Definitely not as cool looking as saleen after more research..

 

[allmyEXes]

Fox body valve covers in post #69...

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a 95-98 Limited front bumper, my two 98's have that. I have a Saleen bumper to go on my project Explorer, and a mangled rear bumper if I can get it untwisted. Those are urethane, and like plastic easy to warp.

 

[TribeZ]

That's a 95-98 Limited front bumper, my two 98's have that. I have a Saleen bumper to go on my project Explorer, and a mangled rear bumper if I can get it untwisted. Those are urethane, and like plastic easy to warp.

Dang well I def paid for a bumper I probably won’t use then lol. I might still paint it and see how it looks. I wish the fog lights weren’t missing.

Valve body is back together, as VR4 mentioned the holes were all already opened, I only opened up the reverse which hadn’t been touched yet. The shift kit had an extra hole that Jmod did not and I drilled that as well. I kept any stock springs not being switched out. Kit was technically only 2 springs, extra retaining clip, gaskets for plug ends, one new shaft and the little balls getting replaced. I am really curious to see the plate from my valve body when I swap them. I may Jmod it as well and try to eBay.

Also got the new windshield on today. I have new cowls that I am going to paint before putting back.

 

[VR4]

Fox body valve covers in post #69...

yep. heres the thread where i put those on.

Snowball effect

A few months ago I decided to go in and fix the timing cover leak I had. Figured since I was in there might as well throw a cam at it. Pleasant surprise with how clean things were when I pulled it apart. http://imgur.com/QjpuAGw I'm not going to imbed pics because they're huge and don't feel...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[TribeZ]

I learned to read better yesterday.

I torqued my first Valve Body bolt to 90lbs… it definitely didn’t make it anywhere near 90lbs before that head broke off.

I returned the cheap Pittsburg torque wrench assuming it didn’t work. Bought a digital.

Started at the lowest setting the digital wil lock at, 20lbs … and at like 10-12 lbs it was too right and then I was questioning my new digital torque wrench.. so I decided to read the Jmod instructions again… it’s 90 INCH LBS not ft… which I found out is only 7.5~ ft lbs.

Needless to say I backed the snapped one out and then properly torqued the rest.

Shade tree mechanic

 

[410Fortune]

This is how we learn!
You won’t do that again lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Those 90-110in/lbs tightness bolts are about wrist tight. I have such a small torque wrench, but from doing several valve bodies, and valve cover bolts, trans pan bolts, and the camshaft two cover bolts of old Fords, it only takes your wrist on a short ratchet to get them tight enough. Use the torque wrench for VB bolts, but for others it's easy to do them by hand.

 

[TribeZ]

Yea it was hilarious how over tight I thought they needed to be.

Which as a plumber.. anything with a gasket is also hand tight and a quarter turn. Should have made the same connection here lol.

This is also why I am so happy to have a donor vehicle. I can learn and not feel like I broke my rig. I wouldn’t feel good seeing it jacked up for two weeks as I figure things out. I have the first weekend of may blocked out entirely. Will be doing front end work ( Lower and upper ball joints upper arms, tie rods , shocks), brake calipers and pads, and that valve body. Hoping 3 full days will be enough to get them all done. I am confident

 

[TribeZ]

Valve body swap is done. All worked well, I was low 2~ quarts after I re-filled with 8 quarts and was shifting funny, got the fluid topped off and it’s feeling nice.

I didn’t take the 1-2 spring out of the trans I read that makes 1-2 super harsh, I might try it if I can’t get 1st as snappy as I like. So far every once in a while at WOT 1-2 will lag and act like it either slips before shifting or over revs. Might be in my shift parameters for the tune but I think it’s a pressure issue still. Havnt had enough testing and also don’t really need to be shifting that high anyways. It will get to about 5200 then shoot to 5400 while shifting to second and almost act like it’s hitting the rev limiter ( should be set at 6000 for 1-2 shift. To stop it from even kicking in. ) the shift should happen at like 52-5300 max on the shift tables.

Will have more fun with it tomorrow and dial it in more.