Project thread: “Beast”

[TribeZ]

Got some new Sway bar links on the rear. Really glad I bought the complete arms and not just bushings. Got that alignment scheduled tomorrow been a busy week . Going to order Energy suspension bushing for the sway bars front and back next. Trying to fight some of the newly gained body roll from putting on shackles.

 

[410Fortune]

She sure is coming along! black limited's are so sharp looking

 

[TribeZ]

Christmas parts! New energy suspension bushings for front and back sway and links! Also a new IAC I had cleaned mine a few times but time for a new one! Excited to do some repairs this week.

 

[TribeZ]

Oh I went on a trip last month and was getting 20~ highway on the way up 680 mile trip. Halfway back CEL came on. Dumb me left my sct scanner at home but my MPG absolutely tanked was at 13.4 mpg on the way back. I am suspicious that I have a leaky fuel injector. But the code I got was just a computer error. Something with my pre loaded tune must have gone wrong. I reloded the tune seems fine since but have not driven a whole tank yet. With new IAC and bushing I’ll hopefully take another trip. Santa left me some cash and not sure if I want to save my 600$ and keep waiting for headers, or if the 32” tires I keep seeing will take the cash. I am not 100% sure I want install headers myself yet. And seems labor to get a shop to install them could be more then the headers. So still not sure my plan there. Ill be re working the trans valve body maybe help me build some confidence .

I highway cruise mainly in my X and rarely sees dirt mainly just snow. I am planning on staying on the 3.73 rear with 32’s it seems I may be disappointed with acceleration but overall I should not really lose much mpg on the bigger tires? I was reading with the overdrive the rpms get pretty low. I already trimmed fenders and my brake line will clear want the tires pretty bad.

 

[410Fortune]

TMH will help with your power and MPG goals
Use Remflex gaskets when you install them

Keep up the good work!

 

[TribeZ]

TMH will help with your power and MPG goals
Use Remflex gaskets when you install them

Keep up the good work!

The price for a shop to install is killing me. If I do it myself its within my current budget. I think I am over stressing the two ways ive seen them put in. One loosens engine mount for some clearance other was the drive shaft. Both just seem little involved. But I do have the luxury of not needing it for a daily could take time over a week and get it done.
And at some point I will need tires regardless.. and can upsize then. I been making a list of the extra part will definitely get the Remflex, need longer wires and heat sleeves. And few other crucial re-routes. Its a big boy project.

 

[TribeZ]

New Energy Suspension bushings are in! I had no luck with pressing the metal sleeve from the rear sway arms on my old pair. Any suggestions? I made a jig with a peice of wood, a socket, and my table vice but I snapped the support ring holding the vice to the table trying to press that socket through. Worked really well on the side without the built in bolt though. I have a new set already on last month will probably be fine to just leave it but still going to see the cost for a shop to press it out. New IAC on seems to have helped my cold start idling and have only had a no start issue once since used to almost be everytime starting cold.

I am halfway to my TMH on my budget. Only other parts I might try and put on before the headers is a valve body kit. Otherwise I think a month or two should be able to pull the trigger on a pair of headers.

 

[TribeZ]

Pcv valve was loose could pull out no resistance. Grabbing a new grommet but will probably replace valve too. Was surprised how easy I got to it considering what I read. But not excited about cutting the crappy hosing for a new valve. Its clicks imma try carb cleaner first and a new grommet for sealing it properly.

Edit: replaced valve and grommet. Old valve was much shorter new on had a 90* fitting. Spun the hose and made it work.

 

[XploderPhil]

New Energy Suspension bushings are in! I had no luck with pressing the metal sleeve from the rear sway arms on my old pair. Any suggestions? I made a jig with a peice of wood, a socket, and my table vice but I snapped the support ring holding the vice to the table trying to press that socket through. Worked really well on the side without the built in bolt though. I have a new set already on last month will probably be fine to just leave it but still going to see the cost for a shop to press it out. New IAC on seems to have helped my cold start idling and have only had a no start issue once sense used to almost be everytime starting cold.

I am halfway to my TMH on my budget. Only other parts I might try and put on before the headers is a valve body kit. Otherwise I think a month or two should be able to pull the trigger on a pair of headers.

View attachment 326200

View attachment 326201

You should be able to use a hammer and chisel to unmerciful beat the crap out of that bushing. You could also use a hacksaw blade to cut the bushing in half.

 

[TribeZ]

You should be able to use a hammer and chisel to unmerciful beat the crap out of that bushing. You could also use a hacksaw blade to cut the bushing in half.

I was a little worried about scoring the sway bar and possibly creating cuts on the new bushing. That metal ring outside the bushing has to come out for the new bushing to fit. Might as well try should be fine and I have a second set.

 

[TribeZ]

265/75/16 get!

 

[Blown]

Nice!

My choice as well, I got about 3500 miles on mine and like them, good in snow.

 

[TribeZ]

In couple weeks going on a long road trip. I have had some starting issues and been suspecting the fuel pump. I have a bad habit of putting minimal amounts of fuel in. I still have not actually checked my line pressure but plan to do so before installing new pump assembly. I also ordered the sonnax shift kit and trans filter. Hoping to add some pep to my transmission though the tuner already changed it dramatically. Hoping just more smooth overall. Was thinking of adding a second cooler for the trans seems super simple and long term improvement. Bunch of other little things to fix before we leave, sun roof started leaking at the car wash, suspect clogged drains. Ordered a roof rack to add on, big mod. My original stock windshield got a crack in it but probably not going to worry about it. The crack is up and across the top tint and not a vision issue. Brake light out, power steering a little shaky when closer to full turn going to flush it out and new liquids. Replacing battery.. hoping 3 days I can do all that work should not be too bad.

My gas mileage with the 31’s has not been the best 18 at the most 14 at the worst. Which is weird I cannot seem to go under 13 even with some pretty heavy footed driving. Hoping with trans mods and new pump I see a fuel improvement. Wanted to see 20 on road trips but with the bigger tires and small lift might be unrealistic. I will keep track on the road trip though should be interesting.

 

[CDW6212R]

For the water leak, check it again with a water hose. Do it when you know the headliner is dry, feel around the edge of the sunroof. Then run the full water onto the sunroof with it all shut, and see if the headliner gets wet at all. In general, the headliner shouldn't become wet unless either the drain basin overflows, or the glass seal itself is leaking/failed.

You can check the drains with the sunroof open, by carefully/slowly running water into the drain basin. If you discover the glass seal is leaking(two of my 98's have), there's only two ;possible solutions. Replace the sunroof glass, or RTV the edge of the seal where the glass meets it. I taped over one of mine, after the first one I had gotten mad and did the entire sunroof crack/opening(that didn't fix it, I didn't run the RTV over onto the glass).

 

[TribeZ]

Hey does anyone have advice for what all to replace when dropping my transmission pan and planning to rebuild valve body. I have a Sonnax rebuild, new filter and pan gasket. I also saw I should replace the 3 solenoids inside so I have those ordered and coming. What else can I do now because I am going to have it exposed?

 

[CDW6212R]

There are many things which can be done and do help. I'd suggest doing it in more than one step. Sonnax sells several helpful items for the VB, those I'd leave for when you are more familiar with the various parts. I'd do the solenoids and the filter, even the EPC solenoid if you can patiently get it out, and in. The large nut and the VB etc are in the way, so the VB definitely has to come off to do the EPC.

I'd do a J'Mod later which is a good VB shifting upgrade, which includes doing the accumulators and springs. Just the solenoids will be a decent task if you haven't been into a VB before, and if the trans is still working okay, do that now and take a breath to do the rest with more planning. The J'Mod needs some research to "guess" what your best drilled hole sizes should be. That takes time and a lot of thought, online sources will be example done on Thunderbirds etc, almost nothing to show what it does for a heavy truck. There are several Sonnax parts that can be replaced in the VB, those take some time and patience to install as well. That's why I say it might be best to do the more in depth stuff after doing the basic filter, and solenoids as possible, which are quicker things to do.

 

[TribeZ]

There are many things which can be done and do help. I'd suggest doing it in more than one step. Sonnax sells several helpful items for the VB, those I'd leave for when you are more familiar with the various parts. I'd do the solenoids and the filter, even the EPC solenoid if you can patiently get it out, and in. The large nut and the VB etc are in the way, so the VB definitely has to come off to do the EPC.

I'd do a J'Mod later which is a good VB shifting upgrade, which includes doing the accumulators and springs. Just the solenoids will be a decent task if you haven't been into a VB before, and if the trans is still working okay, do that now and take a breath to do the rest with more planning. The J'Mod needs some research to "guess" what your best drilled hole sizes should be. That takes time and a lot of thought, online sources will be example done on Thunderbirds etc, almost nothing to show what it does for a heavy truck. There are several Sonnax parts that can be replaced in the VB, those take some time and patience to install as well. That's why I say it might be best to do the more in depth stuff after doing the basic filter, and solenoids as possible, which are quicker things to do.

I have the sonnax stuff now and after reading about Jmod and definitely see it as kind of the king of VB upgrades. Just seemed the shift kit was not to bad to do. I am a plumber so small springs, o-rings, checks all that dont scare me too much. But I was worried about biting off more then I can chew right before a trip. Just not a fan of dropping the pan twice.

I plan a full day for fuel pump and full day for transmission. 3rd day for all the minor things. And I wanted to make sure it runs between doing fuel pump and trans just for good measure.

 

[CDW6212R]

I gotcha. Most people who do anything with a trans, only do the pan and filter. So suggesting 15 things to do, is usually way more than a novice should try.

Which Sonnax part did you get? I'd still say do a little now, and the next time have a big clean deep pan to catch 99% of the fluid, and then spend time doing the J'Mod and accumulators etc.

There's only one thing really of Sonnax parts to not do, and it's about the pressure regulator spring. I have to read the various versions related to that circuit, to fully remember each time. There is an expensive Sure Cure Kit that has most of the items a person would want, but there has been a couple of new parts come out, so something of that kit should be skipped.

Doing the various upgrade items are all good, and virtually nothing can be done out of order or has to be done with something else. The "shift kit" is though a group of drilled holes that you have to be ready to do as a group and researched, to know what sizes should be best, and what to expect. That I would spend good time on researching, because as I said we don't have exact examples to copy.

 

[TribeZ]

I gotcha. Most people who do anything with a trans, only do the pan and filter. So suggesting 15 things to do, is usually way more than a novice should try.

Which Sonnax part did you get? I'd still say do a little now, and the next time have a big clean deep pan to catch 99% of the fluid, and then spend time doing the J'Mod and accumulators etc.

There's only one thing really of Sonnax parts to not do, and it's about the pressure regulator spring. I have to read the various versions related to that circuit, to fully remember each time. There is an expensive Sure Cure Kit that has most of the items a person would want, but there has been a couple of new parts come out, so something of that kit should be skipped.

Doing the various upgrade items are all good, and virtually nothing can be done out of order or has to be done with something else. The "shift kit" is though a group of drilled holes that you have to be ready to do as a group and researched, to know what sizes should be best, and what to expect. That I would spend good time on researching, because as I said we don't have exact examples to copy.

Thank you very much for the info. Looks like ill stick to filter and solenoids for now and get a better game plan for the VB.

oh and Sonnax Zip Kit.

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds good. I need to get to my two 98 4R's also, the same tasks as you want to do. I've put mine off because of work, plus I'm slow.