pulling my hair out

[janderson4010]

Hey guys, Ive tried a lot of things to fix this problem but it hasn't fixed it. my bronco will bog out and die when its hot outside, this will happen usually 15-20 minutes or so after i start driving it. sometimes if i hold the pedal to the floor when it starts to do it it will come back out of it but sometimes it still dies, if i let it sit for about 15 minutes it will usually start back up. at first i thought my fp was bad, i got the vehicle from my uncle and he had replaced both fuel pumps, in tank and the high pressure on the frame. i also replaced the fuel pressure regulator and have done the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. its kind of like its flooding out like it can't burn the gas it has in the cylinders, im kind of wondering if its out of time or the coil or some other electrical component is bad. if anyone has any suggestions please let me know, this is my dd and i really need to be able to drive it. its a 86 bII with the 2.9l v6. thanks guys

 

[WNYBroncoBill]

JAnderson,

I have an '88 - it would die, then run for hundreds of miles. It finally started stopping in regular times. Usually when the engine was up to temperature. It would stop running, then after 5 minutes, start running again. I replaced the high pressure pump and the fuel pump relay. Still would do it occasionally.

Two weeks ago I jumpered out the inertia relay under the dash (passenger side up near the carpet). Simple jumper, just connected the two wires that go into this "crash" relay.

So far, no engine failures either cold or hot.

Mine is an 88 with 2.9 FI.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[janderson4010]

thats interesting, ill have to give that a try, not like its a hard fix, that inertia switch should be right under the dash driver side right? thanks for the input

 

[janderson4010]

o it would help if i read your post carefully, passenger side lol, thanks

 

[janderson4010]

well that didn't do the trick, stranded me on the way home tonight, i really think its an electrical problem, i just replaced the coil and im going to get a timing light this weekend and make sure the timing is on, if that doesn't fix it im going to get into the distributor, gotta get this damn thing fixed

 

[janderson4010]

o and i have replaced the tfi module as well, that was one of the first things i ever did

 

[janderson4010]

its nice im thinking to myself on here lol, im going to take the little wrench and tfi with me tomorrow when i drive it and when it stalls change it to a fresh tfi, see what it does

 

[WNYBroncoBill]

One other inexpensive "fix" is the ignition switch, this went bad on my son's 88 that he uses for a snow plow.

One way to test it is if it quits, crank it and keep the key on start position. If it continues to run until you let the switch go to the "run" position and then quits, it is most likely the ignition switch. (about $20 at NAPA).

If so, remove the bottom cover from the column - 2 phillips screws. Then when you can see the switch module remove it. It is held by two TORX screws, but they are the security TORX screws with a little bump in the center of them. You will need a security TORX bit to remove them (also at NAPA for a few dollars).

Slide the new ignition switch into the column and lock mechanism and then reattach the cable connector.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[janderson4010]

nah the truck ran stellar all winter so i don't think its that. Im going to move the tfi to be mounted remotely and see how much that helps. its not getting spark when its warm oustide, i replaced the tfi but i my understanding is that even a new one in the stock locations is going to have some problems. i replaced the coil last night but i ddin't drive it today so tomorrow we shall see what happens, like i said above if it dies on me im going to throw the spare tfi in and see if that fixes it

 

[janderson4010]

yeah its the tfi, died on me on the way home so i swapped tfi mods and it fired right up

 

[WNYBroncoBill]

Always good to find the problem when it is intermittant. I will remember this one for future. I do believe I have solved mine with the removal of the inertia relay, time will tell.

How much trouble is it to replace the TFI module? Does the distributor need to be removed or is it an on the caar repacement?

Bill

 

[janderson4010]

its pretty easy, just 2 little bolts and a plug. its on the back of the distributor so you gotta have a special little tool, go into autozone or oreilly auto and they will have it, its a 5.5 mm socket with thin walls bk the holes in the module are really small

 

[janderson4010]

just ordered the remote mount heat sink from ebay to mount my TFI, good article here that documents that process

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/remote_tfi.htm

 

[WNYBroncoBill]

Heat Sink Information

Good find! Do you have the information for ordering the heat sink from e-bay?

Thanks,

Bill

 

[janderson4010]

it was just a random posting from some parts recycler, i searched for cougar ignition module

 

[janderson4010]

i need to find the proper grease to put in between the heatsink and the tfi-icm, when you buy a new one it comes with the grease, but i don't need a new module lol. anyone has any idea on what that heat protecting grease is let me know

 

[WNYBroncoBill]

Possibly Radio Shack.

 

[janderson4010]

i relocated the tfi module today. i was driving to the local off road shop yesterday and it died on me for the last time. got wire and relocated the tfi to the inner fender just below the air filter, drove it all afternoon without it dying but the real test will be tomorrow coming home from work.

 

[Deuling]

Dielectric grease would work but if you already relocated it then it doesnt matter.

If it does still stall go on the driver rail toward the back and find the round plastic (what i thought is a regulator lol) and unscrew the piece and a small filter will come with it. $5 at auto zone, it fixed mine when it was acting like that. just a thought.

 

[WNYBroncoBill]

Is the part on the drivers side rail in the fuel system or electrical?

Bill