Rear Bearings for 2003 Sport Trac 4x4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear Bearings for 2003 Sport Trac 4x4

DSteele41

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 25, 2018
Messages
129
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City, State
OKC,OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Sport Trac
4x4
Does Anyone Know of any Videos to Install New Bearings in the Rear of this Vehicle ? or Directions to do it

also can someone verify that these are the Correct Bearings for 4x4 (4WD) 2003 Sport Trac ?

Thanks

DSteele41

upload_2018-7-9_11-38-47.png
 



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I did a Mustang 8.8 (1988), same style bearings, I used a socket of exact size as the O.D. of bearing, make sure everything is clean, and start them straight, crocked is bad, wont go.
 






Did the '03 ST have independent rear suspension or a solid rear axle?

When I replaced the bearings and axle seals on my '01 ST's rear diff I borrowed a slide hammer from O'Reilly's with an attachment that slides in and behind the bearing. Then it grabs behind the bearing and you use the slide hammer to pull it out. To install the new bearing I also borrowed a bearing installer to drive the new bearing in.

It was a fairly easy job after you get the axles out. Be sure to clean the axle housing out very well before installing the new bearings.

IDK if the bearing you pictured is the correct part number, but it looks the same as the axle bearings I used.
 






Did the '03 ST have independent rear suspension or a solid rear axle?

When I replaced the bearings and axle seals on my '01 ST's rear diff I borrowed a slide hammer from O'Reilly's with an attachment that slides in and behind the bearing. Then it grabs behind the bearing and you use the slide hammer to pull it out. To install the new bearing I also borrowed a bearing installer to drive the new bearing in.

It was a fairly easy job after you get the axles out. Be sure to clean the axle housing out very well before installing the new bearings.

IDK if the bearing you pictured is the correct part number, but it looks the same as the axle bearings I used.


Thank You for Reply

any pics by chance (even if from internet) So I'll have visual of getting them from and into the Axle ?

I dont want to start and then get to axle and can't finish job for being afraid of messing up something
 






Thank You for Reply

any pics by chance (even if from internet) So I'll have visual of getting them from and into the Axle ?

I dont want to start and then get to axle and can't finish job for being afraid of messing up something

For removing the old bearing, you attach the appro sized tool tip to a slide hammer, slip it in behind the bearing, tighten it up and bang the bearing out.
s-l500.jpg

To install the new bearing, select the appro size installation tool from the kit below, install the handle, place it on the new bearing and whack it home.
s-l500.jpg

Most auto parts stores lend these tools with a deposit.
 






I did a Mustang 8.8 (1988), same style bearings, I used a socket of exact size as the O.D. of bearing, make sure everything is clean, and start them straight, crocked is bad, wont go.


@koda2000
@974X4BLACKSPORT


Would this link be very similar ?

What I dont understand is Why is in the Rear Axle Cover ? Does that have to be done to change Bearings ?

How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics) - F150online Forums

Thanks to you both for Replying

DSteele41
 






@koda2000
@974X4BLACKSPORT


Would this link be very similar ?

What I dont understand is Why is in the Rear Axle Cover ? Does that have to be done to change Bearings ?

How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics) - F150online Forums

Thanks to you both for Replying

DSteele41

Huh? Yes you need to remove the rear axle cover in order to remove the axles. If you do not have limited slip you remove a small bolt, slide out a large pin, which releases the spider gears and then allows the axles to be pushed in so that the "C" clips can be removed with a magnet, then the axles can be pulled out once the disc brake calipers, brackets and rotors are removed.

If you have limited slip (and I would assume you would on a 4x4) the process of removing the axles is more difficult.

IDK if you skills are up to this task. You can find videos on YouTube that should give you a good idea of what's required but if you've never done anything like this before you may quickly be over your head. Plus you may want to consider replacing your limited slip clutches while your in there (as they wear out over time).

I'll look at the link you provided for the F150 and see if the job would be similar/same on your ST. You never answered my question as to whether the '03 ST has a solid rear axle or independent rear suspension.

Edit:
I reviewed your link for rear axle bearing and seal replacement for the F150 and provided your ST has a solid rear axle (like that pictured for the F150) the bearing and seal replacement procedure would be identical.

TIP: If you go ahead with this job, be very careful not to bugger up the head of the small bolt that holds in the large pin for the spider gears and axles in place. If you do bugger/round-off the head of that bolt it will be nearly impossible to remove it. I usually replace that special bolt any time I have to mess with it and use thread locker on it when reinstalling it.
 






Huh? Yes you need to remove the rear axle cover in order to remove the axles. If you do not have limited slip you remove a small bolt, slide out a large pin, which releases the spider gears and then allows the axles to be pushed in so that the "C" clips can be removed with a magnet, then the axles can be pulled out once the disc brake calipers, brackets and rotors are removed.

If you have limited slip (and I would assume you would on a 4x4) the process of removing the axles is more difficult.

IDK if you skills are up to this task. You can find videos on YouTube that should give you a good idea of what's required but if you've never done anything like this before you may quickly be over your head. Plus you may want to consider replacing your limited slip clutches while your in there (as they wear out over time).

I'll look at the link you provided for the F150 and see if the job would be similar/same on your ST. You never answered my question as to whether the '03 ST has a solid rear axle or independent rear suspension.

Edit:
I reviewed your link for rear axle bearing and seal replacement for the F150 and provided your ST has a solid rear axle (like that pictured for the F150) the bearing and seal replacement procedure would be identical.

TIP: If you go ahead with this job, be very careful not to bugger up the head of the small bolt that holds in the large pin for the spider gears and axles in place. If you do bugger/round-off the head of that bolt it will be nearly impossible to remove it. I usually replace that special bolt any time I have to mess with it and use thread locker on it when reinstalling it.
@koda2000

When you say "Bugger/Round-Off" Do You Mean "Be Careful Not To Strip the Bolt" ?

Thanks for All the information as well

DSteele41
 






@koda2000

When you say "Bugger/Round-Off" Do You Mean "Be Careful Not To Strip the Bolt" ?

Thanks for All the information as well

DSteele41

Yes. The head of the pin retaining bolt is very small (5 or 5.5 mm?) and it's easy to round off the head if your wrench/socket doesn't fit well.

Below is an eBay pic of a LSD clutch kit. In between the clutches/plates is a new pin retaining bolt. Notice how small the head of the bolt is (and the fact that reusing the old bolt is not recommended). Also included is a bottle of LSD friction modifier, which is required to make the clutches operate smoothly. The last time I had a diff apart I bought a new pin bolt and a new wrench to install it with and I was still afraid I was going to round the head of the bolt. I wish the bolt had a larger head, but it is what it is.
s-l1600.jpg


What makes the LSD more difficult is removing the "S" spring (which keeps tension on the LSD clutches) and reinstalling it during reassembly. Prying the spring out isn't too hard, but you need to compress it as much as possible and hammer it home during reassembly. A needle nose vise grips work well for compressing the "S" spring. Pic below (you only require 1 pair).
s-l1600.jpg


Pic of "S" spring below:
s-l500.jpg
 






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