Removing timing cover on 4.0 OHV

[JusTheUsual]

Does the water pump pulley even need to come off if not removing water pump from timing cover ?

no

 

[fast_dave]

Does the water pump pulley even need to come off if not removing water pump from timing cover ?

Rob,

This is from memory; you MIGHT be able to take off the timing cover with the water pump attached, but you probably run into "interference" issues. It sure was a LOT easier removing the water pump from the timing cover, then taking off the timing cover.

That said, 100% of the outcome of this very advanced repair is dependent on taking your time with the "prep work."

With that in mind, the biggest thing to consider is the DELICATE re-assembly process - I cannot emphasize that enough - I would NOT want the water pump attached to the timing cover during re-assembly.

The timing cover to block paper gasket is VERY thin and a critical alignment/fit item.

The lower portion of the timing cover to the front oil pan gasket fit is very critical.

I would NOT want to attempt the delicate reassembly process of attaching the timing cover to the engine block AND oil pan with the unwieldy & heavy water pump hooked up to the timing cover. Total bull in the china closet maneuver. Something would get f'd up for sure...

BTW - I wire brushed the threads of all the bolts, and chased all the bolt holes with the proper sized taps.

YMMV - Good luck!

 

[rodb]

I took your advice dave and pulled the pump off, that did make good sense. Got everything off and de-greased, should I use any sealant when re-installing the water pump gasket and timing cover gasket ? Probably will use gasgacinch on water pump gasket but what about the Ford oem green timing cover gasket ?

 

[fast_dave]

I took your advice dave and pulled the pump off, that did make good sense. Got everything off and de-greased, should I use any sealant when re-installing the water pump gasket and timing cover gasket ? Probably will use gasgacinch on water pump gasket but what about the Ford oem green timing cover gasket ?

rodb,

I have pretty much standardized my silicon - Permatex Ultra Copper.
I buy (what I feel) is the best grade silicon offered and am using that on everything.
As I look at it, it's only $5 - $7 a tube.
For that reasonable price I don't have to clutter up my limited shop space with multiple tubes of differing grades of silicon for different applications that will only dry out (probably when I need a tube the most)

For the past 10 - 15 years, this is what I use for Differentials, Valve Covers, Thermostats, Water pumps, yada, yada, yada...

I always have at least 2 tubes on hand - one opened and a fresh new unopened tube. This stuff is that good

NOTE: Post #38 of this thread has a picture of the "old style" tube picture, below in their "new style" tube picture - same exact stuff...

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8187...42164&sr=1-1&keywords=silicon+copper+permatex

As far as the Green Teflon Coated Ford Gasket, I did not coat that with anything, as on this German Engineered Engine it's teflon coated for a reason (read post #33 of this write up). German engineers always do things for a reason... That's why I added a day to the job to get the correct gasket from Ford.

BUT - to assure that that I'd get a good timing cover seal, I put a clean rag over the exposed oil pan, and then I wire brushed the face of the engine block that the timing cover attaches to. (LAST PICTURE of Post 28 of this thread shows the exposed oil pan).

I also ran a tap through all of the bolt holes so as to get the crud out.

THEN, I wire brushed all of the threads on the timing cover bolts.

Finally, I GENTLY wire brushed the surface of the timing cover.

Do not use a heavy gauge wire brush on the delicate aluminum timing cover as you will make gouges on it.

Use a very thin / fine gauge wire brush that flexes easily.

You won't need to put too much effort on the cleaning of the aluminum timing cover due to the fact that all it had on it was a TEFLON coated paper gasket and no sealers.

Make sure you clean off all gasket and silicon sealer surfaces with a CLEAN RAG and Carb or Brake Cleaner to kill any oil which silicon will not adhere to).

I cannot stress enough that to hit your goal on this job the first time (i.e. No Leaks) close to 100% of this job is the "preparation". Take your time and do it only once.

Look at my pics - it's cleaner in my engine compartment than a third world operating room

 

[rodb]

Did as you suggested but did you use any sealant on the water pump gasket ? The one I got is made by Felpro.

 

[fast_dave]

Did as you suggested but did you use any sealant on the water pump gasket ? The one I got is made by Felpro.

Yes - I did use Permatex Ultra Copper on BOTH SIDES of the water pump gasket.

Post #33 of this thread, Picture #8 (Last Picture in Post).

 

[rodb]

In post #33 picture number 4 from top, what is all the orange around the shaft where pulley goes back on. Is that grease or silicone on top of the oil seal ?

 

[fast_dave]

In post #33 picture number 4 from top, what is all the orange around the shaft where pulley goes back on. Is that grease or silicone on top of the oil seal ?

The Crankshaft seal is colored orange, and Orange colored stuff around the exterior of the crankshaft seal (and the front oil pan gasket) is Permatex Ultra Copper.

TIP: Before pressing in the Crankshaft seal, smear some Ultra Copper 360 degrees in the Timing Cover hole that holds the Front Crank Seal. This is done so as to assure no oil leaks around the exterior of the seal. It can and does happen. Old school trick, leave nothing to chance.

The Violet colored stuff on the crankshaft is Mobile 1 Synthetic Grease, so as to ease the assembly process of the oven heated Harmonic Balancer.

 

[rodb]

Ok I get it now, did not realize the seal was orange.

 

[fast_dave]

Ok I get it now, did not realize the seal was orange.

No prob - good luck and if you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask

 

[rodb]

All back together now, did not even have to heat balancer in oven, lined it up on crank and it slipped on about 1/8", then used a longer 120mm bolt and pulled it on little at a time using a stack of washers, thanks for all your help.

 

[fast_dave]

All back together now, did not even have to heat balancer in oven, lined it up on crank and it slipped on about 1/8", then used a longer 120mm bolt and pulled it on little at a time using a stack of washers, thanks for all your help.

Good deal!

OK - you're in the home stretch - here's a few tips.

* As you drive around, make sure to turn on your heater a few times so as to help run out all the air bubbles in the cooling system. Doing this on the freeway is preferable, but around town will do.

* Watch your overflow tank level for the next week. You will have to level it off as you push out air from the cooling system.

* Run your Ex through a few heat/cool cycles, and then when the engine is COLD go back and carefully snug down all the timing cover and water pump bolts. Keep your hand close to the bolt head when your're using your box wrench and/or ratchet so as to not exert too much force. The idea is to snug the bolts down, not torque them down. You don't want to break off a bolt head, or strip a bolt hole.

Great job on a complex repair!

 

[GaryKipfer]

Fast Dave I have the same leak in the same place as yours. If it ever stops raining here in WA, I'll get to doing it. Thanks so much for all of the info. I didn't want to pull the engine. I will get the ford gasket too! My explorer has 215,00 on it and still doesn't burn any oil (always Mobil1) so I want to keep it going.

 

[GaryKipfer]

At 10:30 AM, I started the process of removing the parts from the front of the engine, alt., fan, rad., water pump and I loosened the bracket for the PS & A/C pump. I got all the timing cover bolts out and removed the crank pulley. That pulley bolt was on there way to tight. I used an 18" long 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and had a 30" cheater pipe on. I got it broke loose and then used my impact to finish the job. Then I use the puller to get the pulley (HB) off. I did screw up a bit because I forgot to get the darn engine to TDC. But I can deal with that later. I got the cover off,That's when the pain started!
I have plastic chunks all over. I'll post some pics.- scratch that, I can't post.

 

[fast_dave]

I got the cover off,That's when the pain started!
I have plastic chunks all over. I'll post some pics.- scratch that, I can't post.

Hi Gary,

The Engine in my Ex is a 4.0 OHV engine, and there are no plastic parts in the 4.0 OHV engine.

Therefore, I suspect that your Ex has a 4.0 SOHC engine.

The 4.0 SOHC engine has plastic parts that guide and tension the camshaft chains. These plastic parts are infamous for deteriorating.

Please confirm the variety of 4.0 liter engine your Ex has: OHV or SOHC

Of course, a PIC or two would be worth approximately 1,000 words

 

[GaryKipfer]

Fast Dave, Sorry I didn't explain that point very well. Yes, I have the SOHC version. I haven't figured out how to post pictures from my computer yet? It's not the same process as the other ford truck forum I visit.

 

[fast_dave]

Fast Dave, Sorry I didn't explain that point very well. Yes, I have the SOHC version. I haven't figured out how to post pictures from my computer yet? It's not the same process as the other ford truck forum I visit.

Short answer: Open a PHOTOBUCKET account, upload your photos to your account, and link to your photos you upload there.

Hope that helps.

 

[smegun]

re iterate tension

Nice!

Thanks guys!!!!

snoranger, I had actually thought of your method, but that meant I would actually have to think about which way the motor cranked, against which way the bolt spins on/off.
So, your method works for removal, Correct?

Fast Dave, your method works for bolt installation then.

I love this site.

snapped a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter righty tighty

 

[dwoods]

Did you ever get to do a write-up on doing cam tensioner?

 

[fast_dave]

I received a PM about providing pictures to a forum member via e-mail - here's an easier way to get them, as well as a way to see other members posted photos that are being held for ransome ;-).

OK - so, as of 2017, forum photos that are linked to Photobucket are now hidden from view and held hostage for $$$$.

That is why you will not be able to see them with when using the web browser Windows Explorer.

Therefore, first download (for free) the web browser Google Chrome.

Then, go to the Google Chrome Webstore, go to the search box, and type in "Photobucket hotlink fix" for a free download of the extension/web browser add-on

NOTE: There are quite a few offerings of photobucket hotlink fixes - for reference I utilize the one made by "bridgetroll.io"

Once you add that extension to Google Chrome, you will be able to go to ANY forum and see the photos full-size as originally posted.

Hope that helps!