replaced 4R tranny - no gears engage

[bob lawrence]

Uh-Oh. Doing the Ford mod. Step 8 says to "Install the special tools into the main control valve body, (Refer to Figure 8)." What "special tools"? There weren't any in the vb when I pulled it, and none were supplied with either the separator plate or the upgrade kit. How important are these (PNs 307-333 and -334) ???

 

[Glacier991]

I'll either have to find my instructions or go back tothe diary... the FORD kit I installed did not require any special tools.

[Edit} Oh geeze, those are the "special $30 valve body alignment pins".

Use your eyeballs and make sure everything is lined up or use the VB bolts. In other words... FUGGETABOUTIT!!!

You are doing fine my friend.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I see that my suspicion about the gasket was correct! I didn't think that it was missing entirely. I thought that it was just damaged in some way. Just in case you wanted some information about those VB pucks, here is the part #, and price: 23299 Valve body pucks ($0.50).

 

[Glacier991]

Good call Brooklyn! And I assume that is TransmissionPartsUSA?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Yes.

 

[bob lawrence]

Guys...I need some more help, please. I got to step 4 in the Superior mod and I can't get the valve out to replace the coast clutch retaining plug. It seems like it's lodged. The diary said it would be a bugger, but this is ridiculous. It looks like it slipped backward such that I can't put the L retainer back in. Any suggestions? Hate to be a pest, but I'm at a loss as to what to do. Should I try to pull it out by the nose with needle-nose vice grips. I don't want to risk damaging it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you try to use an air compressor with a blow gun, and a rubber tip? What about letting it soak in a little WD-40?

 

[bob lawrence]

Don't have a compressor. I did spray it down with WD40, though. What do you think of the "pulling it with vice grips" idea?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The parts are aluminum, so they aren't super strong. You could try to twist it before you pull it straight out. If you see that it is able to twist, then twist, and pull on it.

 

[bob lawrence]

Thanks, BB. I'll try it. Back in a bit.

 

[Glacier991]

Don't damage things... Let me post later from home on possible solutions.... often I cannot get this out. Don't pry, twist or bend anything!

 

[bob lawrence]

Couldn't get it to spin and was afraid that it would twist the node off. Is there a way to get it from the rear? I notice there's a notch in the VB wall directly behind the valve that might be for some kind of special tool.

 

[bob lawrence]

OK Chris...I'm gonna wait for you to check it out. Thanks, ya'll.

 

[Glacier991]

Ok.... this bore is a bzitch..... just like I said. More often than I succeed in rebuilds on this bore, I fail. Please never muscle anything or use pliers or anything, you can really bugger up the VB.

NOW.... you hit the nail on the head. SOMEtimes.... YOU CAN USE A WIRE (I recommend 14 gauge insulated wire... TNN or THNN) and try and finagle it in from the backside...

Whatever you do be careful. VB's have tolerances that can easily get jammed if you **** something in a bore. Lots of lubricant, lots of patience. I have literally spend the better part of an hour futzing with something only to have it suddenly seems to cooperate. Work on making sure the plug is not ****ed in the bore.

I HATE this bore. I am sorry you are having problems.

ps. I should not tell you this but I have used forceps on the nib with some minor success... usually when I can the best way is to pull back anything under spring pressure behind the stuck part and suddenly let it go, snapping against the stuck part. Sometimes I have done this for 5 minutes over and over.... and it works. Sometimes it doesn't.

Keep us posted.

 

[bob lawrence]

Appreciate the response, Chris. What about applying some baby physics to this? What if apply heat to the bore with a propane torch, do you think it will expand enough to free the valve, or would I risk damaging the vb. It's subject to a bit of heat under normal operation, so I figure....

 

[Glacier991]

My experience has been this..... as the VB is aluminum is conducts heat rather well. Most of the spools are anodized aluminum so it quickly gets to them. I tried it once without success.... your call. I use little dowels and tiny hammers sometimes.... all a part of my rats ass assortment of VB tools. Just use common sense and be gentle, you'll get it back together. As I was thinking I seem to recall that the "snapping" maneuver worked best here for the outer plug.

 

[bob lawrence]

Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's all finished!

This morning I decided to abandond the upgrade on the vb out of my son's truck...just couldn't get the coast clutch valve to cooperate. So I pulled the vb out of the used tranny sitting in the carport (remember that one?). I cleaned it up and installed all the upgrades. Obviously, I skipped the upgrade on the coast clutch valve. I figured it would do to just give it a good shot of brake cleaner, let it drain off and wipe dry. Got a bonus, too! The used tranny had a Sonnex boost valve!

So now the upgrades are done and it's shifting like a new machine! All gears are firm and responsive, with absolutely no slipping or flares! Overall, I'd say it was a very easy project (except for that coast clutch valve - a MPITA!). I swapped out everything to the vb with the stubborn coast clutch, and reinstalled it in the used tranny sans upper separator gasket. (So, anybody interested in a transmission core w/ torque converter?)

Because of all the excellent instruction, guidance and support that is offered on this forum, I'm gonna smile real big as I drive by all those transmission shops. Glacier and BrooklynBay, you and all the others who shared this journey with me are an awesome bunch!

Oh yeah, Chris! I have an idea for the diary. Even tho you skipped the details on installing the thermo blocker (Step 4 of the Superior upgrade), I found that a 10mm socket compresses the spring perfectly. It makes installing the retainer a breeze.

Now it's on to the ball joints. The front end makes a horrible racket! As a stopgap, I greased the joints the "cajun" way...straight into the cracked boots. It quieted 'em down for now, but for safety sake, they're coming out!

 

[BrooklynBay]

I was also thinking about the propane torch, but I didn't want to recommend it just in case it damaged the VB. There is another thing you might want to try if you are brave enough. Why not just heat up the entire thing slowly, and evenly in an oven? The torch heats up only one part of it very quickly, when the heat of an oven will heat up the entire thing.

 

[Glacier991]

I can't be more delighted unless if it was my tranny you fixed.

Thanks for the idea for the Diary. The first VB I put the thermo blocker in is having troubles and I am working with the owner to try and see if we can fix them....

If you want to ship me the "BAD" VB and let me have a try on it I will be happy to do so and see if i cannot get it apart....

Meanwhile... I am delighted to see in one day TWO folks who found out that what looked like a rebuild could be fixed by some VB work. Bob...YOU too are now officially someone who can knowledgeably answer Q's about this VB and the rebuild of it !

OK folks, add Bob Lawrence to your list of "go to guys" !

 

[bob lawrence]

Good idea! Then maybe instead of a MPITA, it'll become a "piece of cake" Thanks BB