Replacing the Frame/Body mount bushings - how? | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replacing the Frame/Body mount bushings - how?

No jack

I do have several twin hammer impact wrenches etc,,,,have several scissors jacks, jackstands, bottle jacks,of course plan to use at least 18 inch long to 24 inch long thick boards to spread load on body when lifting takes place,,,bushing replacement should do away with body noise etc
 



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Heat is necessary to remove the bolts as the thread locker must be first heated. I don't know if this job can be done w/out a good impact wrench. Good luck.

When I did mine just a few months before this post I kept a handheld propane torch ready, but I never needed it. The shop I was in had impact guns which made flawless work of the bolts coming out. That may be different if your bolts are rusted. Mine weren't.
 






Good Price

Found set of the red Prothane bushings for my 2002 Sport Trac for $95.00 with free shipping on Amazon,,,,decent price I think!
 






When I did mine just a few months before this post I kept a handheld propane torch ready, but I never needed it. The shop I was in had impact guns which made flawless work of the bolts coming out. That may be different if your bolts are rusted. Mine weren't.

Mine weren't rusted either and I have an excellent IR pneumatic impact wrench, but I found the first bolt I tried was stubborn, so as many have suggested, I heated the bottom of the bolt for about 15 seconds with my MAP torch and it came right out. I didn't bother testing the other 3 main mounts and the 2 rad support mounts came out easily once I removed the top nuts.

$95 is a good price w/free shipping. I think I paid $70 using my Amazon points.

Tips:
1. All the body mounts are different. They're marked in 2 places with the part numbers. One is really hard to read, but the other location is very easy to read.

2. If the upper and lower part of the metal mount doesn't want to separate, remove the bolt and screw it in from the bottom, then hit the other end with a hammer and punch. The Prothane directions tell you this, but who reads directions.

3. I found the best/strongest location to jack the body up was next to the "B" and "C" mount locations on the bracing using a short length of 4x4.

4. To get the parking brake cable out of the frame on the driver's side "B" bushing, I squeezed in the fingers and levered the cable out of the hole with the handle of my hammer.
 






Hey All,

My 2001 ST has been giving me some very interesting creaking and moaning noises ever since I bought it used. The noise is location specific. I found that some of the frame/body mounting bushings are rotted so bad that they're almost non-existent.

Need to replace the pair under the front floorboards, about where the feet of the driver and passenger are, and the next rearward pair sort of under the back seat areas.

How do I replace these? It looks like I'll need to pull up the flooring to access the bolt heads?

Thanks for your help.

CMOS
 







Those would be the "B" position body mount bushings. Starting from the radiator core they are positions A-D. If your B's are shot the C's are probably also bad. I suggest you replace the A-C mounts. The D's are made of a more durable material and are probably okay, There are many good threads on how to replace the body mounts on the ST. Try using the forum search to find them.

I used a Prothane body mount kit to replace my '01 ST's A-C mounts. They cost me about $100 on Amazon. Very happy with the result four years later.

If you're truck is rusty you're in for a hard time and may need the metal parts of the mounts too. Mine were okay (southern truck). Day Star also offers a kit,

https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-6-1...mounts&qid=1555849746&s=amazon-devices&sr=8-3
 






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