SAS vs Superlift

[1990_LX]

I'm torn between a solid axle swap and a Superlift kit. I'm picking up a pats jeep and will have a hp D30 that I will be using if I decide to go SAS. I'm staying stock width and don't plan on anything over 33s so a D30 is sufficient for my needs. My only hesitation in going SAS over the Superlift is that the truck won't be very street friendly. This is a daily driver that I'd rather have decent handling and drivability, however I find it tough to justify a $1600 Superlift kit that still has torsion bars hanging way down there.

 

[2TimingTom]

I could drive my SAS everyday. In fact, my Expedition's alternator needs to be replaced so in the mean time, the SAS is picking up the slack and handling the daily duties. And I've driven it for entire weeks at a time here and there as well.

Are you really going to offroad either one?

 

[1990_LX]

I do a good bit as time permits. Trails over mud though so my CVs do take a pounding.

 

[1990_LX]

Right now I have a 2" BL, shackles, AAL, and TT so anything will ride better. Lol

 

[2TimingTom]

Right now I have a 2" BL, shackles, AAL, and TT so anything will ride better. Lol

Exact set up I had prior to my SAS.

There's always coilovers. The guy that did my SAS may have designed a set of coilover brackets.

 

[1990_LX]

Exact set up I had prior to my SAS.

There's always coilovers. The guy that did my SAS may have designed a set of coilover brackets.

That's what I was thinking about, but at the end of the day the cvs are still a weak point. If I can get good road manors out of a SAS then I will go with it.

 

[2TimingTom]

SAS is a rabbit hole. I've had some death wobble issues. All taken care of now. Hydro assist steering should help with that- I've been told it keeps parts from wearing out. I might go that route at some point.

Vibrations. Because of the height of the lift, I had to get new driveshafts front and rear. The front just wore out and had a bad vibration. The new one is in but there is a still a vibration somewhere- not sure what's causing it. It's not too bad.

My biggest issue on the street is limited steering due to the sway bar hitting the tire. I've got to plan ahead to make tight turns- and usually it takes a couple attempts.

The increased height creates a very large frontal area that is noticeably more difficult to push through the wind. I've got 4.56 gears (had them before the lift) and it's not nearly as quick as it was (not that it was ever a racecar).

If you go SAS and use coil springs, get something in the 250 lb/in range- 280 if you have a heavy bumper and winch. I originally had 180 springs and it was all over the place on uneven roads and would bottom out on the trail. I got WJ coils and cut 2 coils out to get my roughly 280 lb/in springs. It's much nicer on the road and on the trail now.

Adjustable shocks. I have them in the rear only. Makes a huge difference. I run full stiff on the road and about 1/2 on the trail.

 

[1990_LX]

That's about where I'm at. My next issue was figuring out spring rates since my truck is a V8 and most of the write ups I see are based on V6 trucks. I'm not sure what I'm getting into by cutting jeep springs. I take it these lift springs are all linerer rates?

 

[2TimingTom]

Both sets of my springs have been linear.

I'm no expert, but I believe progressive springs are found more in sportscars than offroad vehicles.

The guy that built my SAS has built several- all using the same 180 lb/in springs- a V8 and a couple V6s. But none had a big plate steel bumper like mine. He did mention that the outer C's on the axle of the V8 are starting to bend- my guess is that he's still occasionally bottoming out and that compressive force goes somewhere...... into the C's is my guess.

I looked all over for replacement springs. ARB/OME, custom made, Rubicon Express and then finally Iron Mountain Offroad. I was limited by outer coil diameter because the coils rubbed the frame (the new ones don't do it nearly as much) and I wanted to stay at roughly the same ride height. The ZJ (not WJ like I said before- Jeeps..... they all kind of run together after awhile) coils were softer than I wanted AND taller than I wanted. Once I did the math on removing 2 coils I had EXACTLY what I wanted. I couldn't be happier now.

 

[1990_LX]

Yeah I really am not interested in going any higher than necessary to level the from with a SOA set up. Also, do you happen to have the email address for that guy who CNCd his one plates for the coil and shock mounts?

 

[1997XLTRollover]

This may help you make your decision... I don't see how you can possibly put a superlift on a V8 Explorer for anything less than $2300. Are you getting one used for 1600 with the driveshaft?

EDIT: Wow I take that back. Superlift has a nice sale right now, just a hair over 1500 bucks for the kit with free shipping. That being said the Superlift will be a solid 2 grand. 1500 for the kit and 500 for the double cardon front driveshaft. This is assuming you're keeping the AWD.

 

[2TimingTom]

$500 for a driveshaft? Wow. Why can't you just have the existing one lengthened?

 

[rabbit91]

just sasd my explorer, V8, have light springs, plate bumper and super happy with it. not the great road manors since i dont have a sway bar but I do not drive fast. Im SOA to match, which i was before. this was my first sas and took awhile but learned a lot. made everything adjustable which helped to tune it in

had my Dshaft lengthened and it cost $450... wasnt too impressed because a new one is not much more

 

[1990_LX]

Is there no way to retain a sway bar with a solid axle or do most not bother so they don't have to worry about disconnecting it for flex when they hit the trails? My truck is 80% a road crawler so I'd like some level of comfort, however right now with the torson bars cranked as far as they'll go anything will ride better lol.

 

[2TimingTom]

I have a sway bar with quick disconnects for a Jeep TJ.

Even with my stiffer springs, if I swerve on pavement with the sway bar disconnected, it rolls like a Baja truck taking a corner fast. The softer springs were even worse. With it connected it corners fairly flat. I just can't turn too tight or else the tire rubs the end links.

 

[1990_LX]

I have a sway bar with quick disconnects for a Jeep TJ.

Even with my stiffer springs, if I swerve on pavement with the sway bar disconnected, it rolls like a Baja truck taking a corner fast. The softer springs were even worse. With it connected it corners fairly flat. I just can't turn too tight or else the tire rubs the end links.

Is it the stock explorer bar or is the bar itself also off of a TJ?

 

[2TimingTom]

The bar is the Explorer bar. The disconnects from JKS for a TJ.

My bar was relocated and effectively moved it forward. The stock location, the end links are near the centerline of the wheel. Mine are now even with the tire sidewall.

If I had to guess, I have about 85% of my steering with the bar connected. With it disconnected and tied up, I have full steering.

 

[2TimingTom]

had my Dshaft lengthened and it cost $450... wasnt too impressed because a new one is not much more

Wow. After I cracked the female spline shaft on mine, I had an entire new driveshaft built: new male/female splines, new tubing that was thicker wall and larger diameter, 1 ton u-joints front and rear, balanced and painted for about $230. I had similar treatment done to the front for about $175.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

$500 for a driveshaft? Wow. Why can't you just have the existing one lengthened?

just sasd my explorer, V8, have light springs, plate bumper and super happy with it. not the great road manors since i dont have a sway bar but I do not drive fast. Im SOA to match, which i was before. this was my first sas and took awhile but learned a lot. made everything adjustable which helped to tune it in

had my Dshaft lengthened and it cost $450... wasnt too impressed because a new one is not much more

Wow. After I cracked the female spline shaft on mine, I had an entire new driveshaft built: new male/female splines, new tubing that was thicker wall and larger diameter, 1 ton u-joints front and rear, balanced and painted for about $230. I had similar treatment done to the front for about $175.

Well the V8 guys can't use the stock shaft unless it's a 96 MAYBE. The 97-01 shaft has that ball and socket type design and it's just a POS. It also can't handle the new angle regardless of length.

You probably could have one made, but to me it was just easier to order the one from Superlift and be done with it. It is kind of pricey though and you probably can get one cheaper somehow. But the aggravation of figuring that out just wasn't worth the extra couple hundred bucks. I had to do all sorts of measurements to make sure it would work because the superlift shaft is not meant to work with the V8 AWD system. But I did the legwork and took a chance and it worked out. So if you go that route the superlift shaft will work on the AWD V8 trucks.

 

[boominXplorer]

The v8s with a 4406 swap can run either a Jeep or 1st gen explorer shaft with the right flange adapter. I ordered mine brand new and it was $65 off amazon. Then put it on a front xj driveshaft with new u joints and it fit perfect on my superlifted ranger.

I love my coilover conversion with the superlift. I have been daily driving my ranger on 35s, put 5000 miles on it since April.