Serious Problem With Power Rack!!! I need HELP! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Serious Problem With Power Rack!!! I need HELP!

davidmedearis

New Member
Joined
June 28, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Downingtown, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT
Hello,

I'm new here but it seems I'm in some trouble. Here goes it:

1996 Explorer XLT
4.0 V6
Four wheel drive

I just replaced my rack and pinion. The old one was gushing all over the place, and a re-manufactured unit was only $150 after the core return.

I replaced it fairly easily, following the ford shop manual for the install. All seemed to go well. The problem surfaced upon restarting the steering system. I disconnected the ignition control module (ICM) and filled the power steering reservoir. I cranked the starter so that the pump would gulp up the fluid, and repeated this process until the fluid level remained constant.

I turned the wheels from stop to stop several time, noticing pressure build up as I went, and watched as bubbles came to the surface of the reservoir. When the bubbles stopped, I reconnected the ICM and started the engine.

The engine started fine, but the steering system.... not so much. As soon as I attempt to turn the wheel in any direction, it enter a a violent oscillation that could seriously hurt someone with their arms in the wrong place. I have attached a link to a video of the problem that I recorded:


Is this just air buildup? It is not the check valve that goes into the pressure input line on the rack. I have already checked this an confirmed that it is not the cause. I really am at a loss on what to do. Please help!
 



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You either have a bad rack or you hooked the lines up wrong which I doubt.I have never had a rack out of an Explorer but I have done dozens of GM racks and you couldn't hook the lines up wrong.

I would say the rack is bad,take it out and get them to replace it,I have never seen anything like this,take the video with you and show them.:D
 






Either the rack is messed up, or there is still a ton of air in the system. This is a known issue when air gets into the PS system, but usually nowhere near that bad. There are a few threads around here on it, and more videos on YouTube...
 






Bad rack, nice video.

There was a thread on here a while back with a video showing the exact same thing. Thats definately not air, it's a bad valve within the rack I believe.
 






Well... I'm embarrased to say....

Looks like Ford doesn't have the same mindset that GM does. I hooked up the new rack with the lines backwards, and it was very easy to do... rest in peace, new rack. :salute:

I have to admit up front I learned several valuable lessons, the foremost of which is to move slowly and think through what I'm doing. Here's what happened:

When I un-boxed the new unit, I immediately read the flier that was draped over everything:

*Note that the explorer rack is the model on the left

CheckValve.jpg


If you read this carefully, you will see that it very specifically locates the pressure port, and the orientation of the check valve.

I followed this diagram for installation. It produced the violent steering shown in the video above. Why? ----> Because these directions are incorrect.

I looked in the box that the rack arrived in, and what do you know, there was another piece of paper stuck behind the receipt (which looks like it should have been hung on the input shaft):

SteeringTag.jpg


If you read this information closely, and the compare it to the first image, you will realize that they contain conflicting information.

Obviously, the pressure port was incorrectly indicated on the first piece of paper, and correctly indicated on the green slip. If I had been intelligent, I would have made note of their locations on my own, before dis-assembly and saved myself a lot of grief. As much as I'd like to blame the directions, let's face it.... I just messed up.

The green slip describes exactly what will happen if you reverse the lines. Violent self steering, and once you correct the lines you will get a geyser of fluid out of the seal that surrounds input shaft.

Just thought I'd let you all know..... because you were all dying to know....

OH. I did call the manufacturer and they were surprised and said they'd correct the mistake. I guess most people don't rely on those directions though :p
 






Good stuff - thanks for updating.
 












would you believe the manufaturer has still not corrected this error in their paperwork. After watching this and looking at your instructions I just looked at mine and its still the same all the years later. Beware buyers... Progress is a slow train! ! :p: :roll:
 






David, Guess what. They DID NOT correct the misinformation. I just replaced one and had the same problem. I was told by several people that the rack is bad, so I replaced it again. This time, while looking for an exploded view diagram, I ran across your post and one other, that show that the instructions ARE WRONG!

Thanks for sharing your experience. Perhaps now I can put this miserable job behind me and move on with other things. :)
 






real men never read instructions...
 






OK so the bottom port is the high pressure line. The top port is the return from gear to cooler. When I replaced the return line and tightened it up, it felt a little loose (as the line could wiggle just a bit) is this OK ???
 






OK so the bottom port is the high pressure line. The top port is the return from gear to cooler. When I replaced the return line and tightened it up, it felt a little loose (as the line could wiggle just a bit) is this OK ???
You have two options. Start it up, drive around the block with some turns to see if it leaks (and to get the air out of the system while you're at it), or take it off, examine the threads to be sure it wasn't cross-threading and put it back on and check tightness again.
 






So u have 2 have the check valve in the I pressure side . When I took mine off the 2001 Ford explore it did not have a check valve on it
 






As I read this I was thinking to myself "that's what you get for reading the directions" as I read further I saw where I basically said the same thing 5 years ago... LOL.
 






Are there any rack brands(rebuilds) to avoid, or are they about all alike? I'm going to have to do one or two in the near future I'm sure.
 






Don,

Perhaps a local shop in your area that does power steering pumps and such?

It might be a little more expensive but at least you know who is doing the work.

Rather than some poor kid in a sweat shop making $6.00 a day rebuilding power steering racks.
 






Yeah, getting rebuilt parts for 20+ year old vehicles is not fun. My 91 Lincoln I've already learned of several parts you don't want to be buying rebuilt from parts stores. The rack is one of those for my Mark VII, all rebuilds come from Fox Mustangs, which weren't taken care of well.

Brake calipers are among those parts, if you need one replaced, rebuild it yourself. That way you know it wasn't wore out, the seal just leaks or sticks, which you are fixing.
 






Are there any rack brands(rebuilds) to avoid, or are they about all alike? I'm going to have to do one or two in the near future I'm sure.
I'd go with a Cardone from Rock Auto... Rebuilt in TX, 3 yr warranty, and one of the lower cost options at $95 (but add over $40 in shipping both ways). The main annoyance is the $125 core charge. I don't know what it costs (a consumer) to ship the core back. Rock Auto charges $22 for S/H.

Edit: On further research, Amazon has a great deal on those right now, at least for my '98, Cardone part # 22-234 is currently $186.57 with free shipping, then they're calling the core return a "rebate" of $120, making it $67 after rebate.

https://www.amazon.com/Cardone-22-234-Remanufactured-Domestic-Pinion/dp/B000C41IK0

They claim "If your core is eligible, the site will provide a pre-paid shipping label" (so no shipping cost to you?):
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/00/00/91/70/68/00/9170680090._CB294721398_.pdf
https://cardonerebate.com/

It almost seems too good to be true, but sometimes Amazon just has crazy low prices. I also see that one at O'Reillly for $135 + $90 core, but they state lifetime warranty.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...4/2448713/1996/ford/explorer?q=cardone+22-234
 






Thanks. Rock Auto charged me about $19 to return a steering box core for my sister's 07 Jeep. That was a good deal, the box weighed over 30lbs. Amazon is very good often times to find a good deal, if you're diligent in the searching. Well done.
 



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