Serpintine belt replacement questions for NA 3.5 V6

[metroplex]

I have a 2018 XLT with the NA 3.5 V6, AWD, and towing package, at 22k miles. Recently cold starts especially when it is moist with precipitation or fog, have resulting in a chirping sound like the belt is going bad. Once the engine is warm or hot, there is no chirping sound.

Has anyone replaced their belt? How easy is it to access? I noticed there are two belt sizes, one for non HD alternator and one for the HD alternator. How do I tell which size I need? Ford shows three alternator options, 175A, 210A, and 230A. I am assuming my XLT AWD V6 with tow package would be the 175A...

I normally buy the Gatorback belts but don't really see them for sale nowadays. Continental just lists regular multiV serpentine belts.

 

[metroplex]

So I looked at all 3 Motorcraft replacement alternators online to get an idea of their differences. Clear as day how to identify them aside from the label. Then I looked at my alternator and luckily the label was visible: 230A.

I am surprised Ford put the HD 230A alternator on my bare bones XLT. The only option it had was the towing package. I have the old school SYNC radio (4" postage stamp sized screen). Not even heated seats.

Meanwhile on my fully loaded Fusion Sport (heated/cooled seats, SYNC3, etc) it has a 210A alternator.

 

[mguy13sport]

Take the passenger wheel off
Unclip some of the inner wheel well
Get a slim ratchet
There will be a tensioner right near the motor mount put the ratchet on it and take tension off belt
The real trick is getting the new belt on.. i had to force mine with a prybar to get it over the AC compressor

 

[metroplex]

Couldn't you get at it from under the engine? The PTU cooler duct had to be removed but it seems like I could access all the pulleys. I normally like to touch and feel each pulley to make sure the belt is sitting in the right spot and not snagged on a bolt or stud (Crown vic had a stud right by the belt path...)

Do you use the ratchet or breaker bar from the top of the engine?

It seems Continental discontinued the Gatorback which was one of the best belts I've ever used in the past 20 plus years. I'm not a fan of Gates or Dayco belts.

 

[mguy13sport]

You can get it from top or bottom. I did it from the top but i am tall. I also had some other stuff apart as i was doing the front timing cover. If you take out the wheel well clips u can get in the bottom

 

[peterk9]

I have a 2018 XLT with the NA 3.5 V6, AWD, and towing package, at 22k miles. Recently cold starts especially when it is moist with precipitation or fog, have resulting in a chirping sound like the belt is going bad. Once the engine is warm or hot, there is no chirping sound.

Has anyone replaced their belt? How easy is it to access? I noticed there are two belt sizes, one for non HD alternator and one for the HD alternator. How do I tell which size I need? Ford shows three alternator options, 175A, 210A, and 230A. I am assuming my XLT AWD V6 with tow package would be the 175A...

I normally buy the Gatorback belts but don't really see them for sale nowadays. Continental just lists regular multiV serpentine belts.

It would seem that his is the one for your Explorer.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/engine/belt-tensioners/v-belt-7865653-1

This site shows this belt when searching on the V6 but then in the Fitment section shows it is only for the 2.3L.

2013-2020 Ford Serpentine Belt DA8Z-8620-G | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

2013-2020 Ford part # DA8Z-8620-G - Serpentine Belt

parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

Peter

 

[metroplex]

Yes JK6-457-A is the Motorcraft belt for the HD Plus Alternator (230A). I'm assuming Ford uses these at the factory. Still seems odd Ford would put the HD Plus 230A on my bare bones XLT but I'm not complaining. It'd be great if they did the same for my Fusion Sport's 2.7L EcoBoost though, that is loaded down with computer modules and needs all the charging help it can get.

My experience in the past has been that Goodyear Gatorback (then Continental Gatorback) always resolved squeeling issues in the past 20+ years on every vehicle I've owned. I can't find these anymore so I am assuming they are discontinued. I also recall them being made in China as well. I ordered a new Motorcraft seeing how I have never had great results with Gates, Dayco, or AC Delco (which I believe are just rebranded Gates).

 

[FEMC]

2016 XLT V6 Non Turbo Drive/Serpentine Belt Replacement​

This is not a simple task needed my wife to assist and took 1 hour
Part number for belt with heavy duty alternator is CONTINENTAL 4060450

1) REMOVE TIRE
2) RAISE HOOD WITH STICK ON DRIVER SIDE SO HOOD LIFT NOT IN YOUR WAY
3) REMOVE A/C LINE BRACKET
4) GREASE 3/8 NOTCH ON PULLY
A. USE A LOW-PROFILE RATCHET SO LESS CHANGE OF GETTING STUCK
B. IF YOUR RATCHET GETS STUCK USE PRY BAR
C. SERPENTINE TOOL IS TOO LONG

5) REMOVE INNER PSNGR FENDER LINER
6) RELEASE TENSION AS FAR AS POSSIBLE TO REMOVE
7) RELEASE TENSION AS FAR A POSSIBLE TO INSTALL
A. ROUTE NEW BELT TO CRANK PULLY FIRST-THEN A/C PULLY THEN ALTERNATOR LAST
****TRICK**** ROUTE THE BELT AROUND ALTERNATOR FROM THE FRONT OF THE PULLEY****
SEE PICTURE
TO MAKE THIS EASY HAD WIFE HOLD BELT AROUND CRANK AND A/C. SO NOT TO SLIP OUT.
IF DOING THE JOB SOLO MAYBE USE CABLE/ROPE
OF SOME SORTS TO TIE UP TOP

 

[Odrapnew]

Yikes.
Pretty sure my 3.5 Ecoboost took me longer to find my tools than to replace the belt.
I know I didn't remove the fender liner and I'm fairly certain I didn't have to remove the AC line bracket.
I was lucky that I had a 'mini' breaker bar to use on the tensioner. It's about 1ft long with swivel head 3/8" drive.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

that seems overly complicated for a maintainence item... are the new engines that cramped? i guess im spoiled by my 2nd gen, which i thought was cramepd

 

[metroplex]

I was able to change the belt and tensioner. That A/C bracket is right in the way but it is welded to the subframe rail. It's just overall fairly tight.

 

[jons901]

Yeah, it's tight in there, but I was able to do it w/o removing the splash shield as well. Here was my process and tools:

Unexplained Rattle 2014 Limited

Here is my latest research project. This rattle was intermittent all winter, gone for days or weeks at a time, but back pretty regularly now. I'm thinking possibly AC compressor issue of some sort as if I am at idle in a parking lot the AC will be pretty warm. Once I rev a bit, the AC cools...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[metroplex]

I did remove the PTU cooler duct so I could visually inspect the belt to make sure it was sitting in the right pulley grooves. I like to do that with each belt install on all of my vehicles.

 

[texsn95]

Do you rotate CW to relieve tension? No wrench required right, just a 3/8 drive?
I have a 5060450 belt that I never put on my old '14 that will fit my '17. I just hit 73k, I wonder if it's even necessary yet. I guess it never hurts to swap a new one on...may hurt your knuckles though...

 

[jons901]

Do you rotate CW to relieve tension? No wrench required right, just a 3/8 drive?
I have a 5060450 belt that I never put on my old '14 that will fit my '17. I just hit 73k, I wonder if it's even necessary yet. I guess it never hurts to swap a new one on...may hurt your knuckles though...

Correct, clockwise to relieve tension, just the 3/8 drive ratchet.

 

[metroplex]

Do you rotate CW to relieve tension? No wrench required right, just a 3/8 drive?
I have a 5060450 belt that I never put on my old '14 that will fit my '17. I just hit 73k, I wonder if it's even necessary yet. I guess it never hurts to swap a new one on...may hurt your knuckles though...

Yep a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar. The slimmer the better.
I only swapped my belt because it was making noise during cold starts. Ridiculous since its such low mileage. Was surprised the Motorcraft belts are made in Japan.

 

[texsn95]

Thanks...I've done a 2x belt and tensioner change on an M5 V10, and that ******* was really tight, but was able to get it from top and bottom, so I'm pretty sure I can get to this one. I'll put it low on my "to-do" list.